Cats and Birds information on net.

2008-03-17T04:59:00.000-07:00

As a child I remember tales of my mother's family cats, with Uncle Tom being kept in the dark that it was his sister's cat that had enjoyed his favourite bird. Cats and birds shared the house; cat in house = bird in cage; bird free in house = cat outside screen door; I don't remember any of our cats dining on our birds though mother lost several budgies by going outside forgetting they were on her shoulder.

A long preamble perhaps but when animals are an integral part of your life one tends to treat them as family. So that, as one becomes more conscious of how one lives, by respecting the planet, eating healthily, not wasting food surely the same thing applies to how we feed our pets. I guess the principles of a healthy diet for a cat would be an organic, holistic one. Cats are carnivores - observe the number of mice that one has to dispose of, usually just the liver and intestines to be fair - our cats are thorough, unless they play with them first of course, in which case its mouse eradication from underneath grandfather clocks, heavy chests of drawers and the kitchen sink. So if one has a plentiful supply of mice a lot of problems are solved - pest extermination naturally, fresh raw meat, especially bone. However most cats have managed to domesticate humans and prefer a more varied diet. Trawling through many web sites night after night the main principles of a Healthy, Organic diet for your cat is:

Feed the diet that nature intended for your carnivore - as close as possible to the form and nutritional composition that your cat would eat in a natural setting. The diet that I choose to feed is very basic. Some of the elaborate and complicated recipes found on the internet are enough to cause anyone to abandon the idea of making their own cat food and that is a shame. It does not have to be that complicated and involved. The diet of a wild cat is pretty basic - they eat whole carcass prey, often leaving the stomach and intestines behind. In the wild, your cat would be eating a high protein, high-moisture content, meat-based diet, with a moderate level of fat and with only approximately 3-5 percent of her diet consisting of carbohydrates.

Cats are designed to obtain most of their water with their diet since their normal prey contains approximately 75 percent water.

Look for a muscle meat (preferably, not an organ meat like liver) as the first ingredient. A muscle meat is "chicken," or "turkey," etc. Not "chicken by-products" or "chicken by-product meal," or "chicken broth" or "liver". "Chicken meal" is technically a muscle meat but the term "meal" denotes that it has been rendered (cooked for a long time at very high temperatures) and is lower quality than meat that has not been as heavily processed. A "meal" product is more commonly found in dry foods. By-products can include feet, intestines, feathers, egg shells, etc. and are much less nutritious than meat.

Meat from known organic sources
Table scraps only as occasional treats
Variety

Definite No-Nos:

- Alcoholic beverages
- Chocolate
- Coffee
- Grapes & raisins
- Mouldy or spoiled food
- Onions, garlic & chives
- Poultry bones
- Salt & salty foods
- Tomato leaves, stems & unripe fruit
- Yeast dough

Don't forget, though, that cats have different nutritional needs to humans so it's the principles ones follows not the actual diet.

Resources.

Written by Frank & Anne Brown

We have owned, lived with, loved and bred cats since we were both kids. The recent revelations of the horrors of the 2007 - 2008 pet food recall led us to totally re-evaluate how we cared for our pets. We now source and prepare all our own cat food. The change in both cats has been dramatic, their health, energy and sheer vitality have changed so much.

Please visit us and see how YOUR pet's health can improve with just a little effort on your part.

http://www.catfoodrecipesonline.com

Written by Frank & Anne Brown.

Frank and Anne have lived with, loved and bred cats since they were both kids. Recent revelations of the horrors of the 2007 - 2008 pet food recall led Frank and Anne to totally re-evaluate how they cared for their pets. They now source and prepare all their own cat food. The change in both their cats have been dramatic, their health, energy and sheer vitality changed so much.

Check out this site and fin

GPS Collars Can Help You Track YOur Pet and Keep Him Out Of Danger

2008-03-15T02:34:00.000-07:00

GPS collars can be used to track your pet should he or she ever get away. This tracking can be exact to about one meter or three feet. The term GPS means Global Positioning System. These days, GPS chips are so small that they can be hidden in any pet collar, or even implanted underneath your pet's skin

Once activated GPS dog collars can send real-time data directly to a portable receiving station in your house or car. In fact, new technology has made it possible for GPS Collars to send information to cell phones and laptop. If your pet has gone far, you can send information about his location in real time to police or fire departments that will find him and keep him safe until you arrive.

Never lose your pet again - get a GPS Collar for him or her. It feels and looks like a regular collar, and is completely safe and harmless to your dog or cat. GPS collars can even be made for birds and specially fit ones can be put on some reptiles.

GPS Collars have other uses as well - for example, when driving or hiking with your dog, the collar can help both of you know where you are. You can put the small GPS cat collar in your pocket and use it to know where you are even without your pet present.

There are too many stories about dogs wandering off into dangerous areas, or cats getting out and fighting with animals much bigger than them. Slowly these stories are being replaced by tales of dogs and cats wearing GPS collars and being rescued before they get in harm's way. Add your pet to the list of animals who were saved by a GPS dog collar or GPS cat collar.

Learn what farmers already know in order to track expensive cattle, and what many parents have learned in order to track their kids, use GPS technology for piece of mind!

GPS chips can provide a pet owner with a sense of security and comfort, but they should never take the place of all other preventative actions one would take to ensure their pet's safety. These GPS chips might augment what you already do, but they should never take the place of your current methods of watching over and protecting your pet.

Finding Pets Online

2008-03-13T23:50:00.000-07:00

When you hear about somebody who wants to find a pet online, what is the first thing that you think about? For some people, the idea of pets and the virtual world online may never cross paths in the same thought. For others, they may have grown up in this new technological era and regularly search the Internet for almost anything that they have ever wanted to purchase. Whether you know it or not, finding pets online and pet classified ads online are not only very common, but actually a beneficial and much improved method when searching for the perfect pet.

When you are searching for pets online, you can discover a lot of information that may otherwise be unavailable to you just by going to your local pet shop or library. Information about pets that would take you days or even weeks to track down in the "real world" can be found in mere moments online. The huge volume of pet information that is available online can be used to help you discover the perfect pet for you or for someone you love.

Many types of pets have special needs and it is important to get as much information as you can before you invest a significant amount of money in a pet that you may have to find another owner because you were not prepared to meet it's needs once you found your ideal pet. For example, somebody who lived in the tropics would probably not have an ideal environment for many pets like Alaskan Malamutes or other animals that live in colder environments.

Many animals, especially among the more exotic pets, may be very fascinating and even very beautiful in their own way but you must be certain that you have the necessary environment to raise your pets properly. All of your efforts will be in vain unless you can take care of your pets once you bring them home. In the case of many exotic pets and global or national championship stock animals, this could be a very expensive loss that is unnecessary with preparation, research and planning for your pets.

Additionally, searching for pets online will allow you to get to know the people who actually sell the pets and in many instances, the animal breeders themselves. Finding a reputable pet shop, dealer or a breeder can be difficult if you do not know where to look. Often times, breeders do not go out of their way to advertise their services. If you are not currently involved in the showcasing of certain breeds or you are not actively involved in the social communities that come with some pets, it may be nearly impossible to find a pet without the Internet.

Whether you are searching for dogs and cats online or looking for a pet that is more exotic in nature, you can find a pet online that will meet all of your needs and furthermore, one that can comfortably adjust to your personal environment as well. Next time you think about getting a pet, think about how to find a pet online and you will likely be very pleased with the improved results.

Is Your Cat Misbehaving? 4 Tips to Understanding Your Cat

2008-03-13T03:38:00.000-07:00

Despite their status as the most popular pet in America, cats can still be difficult. With their sometimes aloof attitudes and unwillingness to tell us what they want, figuring out your cat can be tough.

When your cat, whether it's an Abyssinian or a Turkish Van, starts misbehaving, it can cause serious damage. From ripped curtains to urine-stained bed sheets, a cat on the rampage is hard to handle. Unfortunately, many owners give up on cats with behavior problems, but there are steps you can take to help your cat grow through or out of them.

To learn how to stop your cat from misbehaving, keep reading for 4 key tips on how to understand your cat.

1. Take your cat to the vet for a complete physical.

Sometimes a behavior problem can actually be a physical problem. For example, a cat that's urinating in strange places may be suffering from an illness or an infection.

Your vet can also offer suggestions and advice for problems that are behavioral.

2. Check the house for environmental factors.

Sometimes the solution is simpler than you think so check around the house for environmental factors that could be wreaking havoc on your cat's disposition.

For example, litter box problems are typically the source of rampant or improper urination. First, check where you're keeping the litter box - is it next to a loud appliance or in a heavily trafficked area of the house? Just like you, your cat wants a private and quiet place to do its business. You can also try a covered litter box, which most cats, particularly longhaired cat breeds, tend to prefer.

Next, try switching out the litter that you're using. If you're using scented, try unscented and if you're using non-clumping, try clumping. Some cats are just picky about their litter.

Finally, make sure the litter box is being cleaned frequently enough. Just as you wouldn't want to use a dirty toilet, your cat also wants a clean litter box. Also, make sure there is at least one litter box per cat as cats prefer to have their own.

3. Look to your other pets.

Sometimes problems with other animals in the house, like an aggressive older cat or a constantly chasing dog can lead to behavioral problems. Much like the child who acts out after being bullied, your cat may be dealing with those issues in the same way.

Always introduce new animals into the house slowly, keeping them separated from one another, but still able to smell and hear each other. Once they've gotten acquainted, let them co-mingle. If you're trying to deal with an existing problem, try using baby gates to keep your cats or pets separate from one another for a few days. This separation can help reduce anxiety.

4. Consult a professional.

Expensive and sometimes a last resort for many pet-owners, a pet behavior specialist may be able to help you and your cat work through your problems. According to the listings provided by the Association of Companion Animal Behavior Counselors (ACABC), a private behavior 1-hour consultation can cost anywhere from about $50 to $500, but most hover around the $70-$100 range.

How to Navigate On-line Pet Classifieds and Protect Yourself

2008-03-11T03:15:00.000-07:00

Whether you're looking to purchase a new pet or advertise pets for sale, the Internet is perfect for seeking out information, reputable breeders and potential pet-buyers. However, with the convenience and vast selection that on-line pet classifieds provide, there also comes the need to check references and ask lots of questions. Keep reading for great tips on how to get the most out of advertising pets for sale or purchasing a pet online.

1. Ask for references
Always ask for references. As a pet buyer, you want to make sure that the breeder from whom you're purchasing is reputable and known for placing their animals in good homes. Actually call up the references and ask about the breeder's follow-up, their health screening and the conditions of their breeding business.

If you're a breeder and posting a "pets for sale" online classified, then you also want to make sure that your prospective buyer is the kind of person that will love and properly care for the animal. Feel free to ask them for character references or a veterinary reference if they own other animals.

2. Access the online pet/breed community
The Internet offers animal researchers a wealth of animal information, including access to pet communities with forums, image galleries and lots of breed information.

If you're looking to purchase a new animal (dog, cat, horse, bird, etc) through an online classified ad, try locating an Internet based pet community and joining. Once you're a member, ask questions, request referrals for quality breeders and solicit advice on your particular breed or species. It's like a neighborhood meeting, but specifically tailored to your pet questions.

A good pet classifieds site will also include information about different breeds and animals, as well as access to these valuable communities. For example, FindaPetonline.com is a pet classified site that also hosts a user-based web community and breed profiles.

3. Ask for a picture
If you're trying to buy a dog online (or cat, horse, or bird), always ask for pictures or video. Many quality breeders will be happy to provide remote buyers with short video footage of the prospective puppy playing and interacting with his brood.

If the animal is being sold as a purebred or as having been born from registered parents, ask for scans of the parental registration along with all the paperwork. Feel free to phone up the appropriate club or registration association to confirm the information.

4. Ask questions
If you're trying to sell an animal online through pet classifieds, don't be afraid to ask the prospective buyer questions. You want to make sure your prized horse, puppy, bird or kitten is going to a good home, so don't hesitate to ask about yard size or living conditions.

Buyers, the person selling you the animal should also be willing and ready to answer questions about everything from specific breed requirements to feed suggestions to how they house and care for their animals.

Remember, the Internet is a great opportunity to get in touch with qualified breeders and buyers all over the world, but with that potential comes a certain amount of responsibility. So, get documentation, ask questions, get references and access your online pet community.

CS Swarens is the president of Find a Pet Online. 800 998-7065

Safe Traveling For Your Dog, Cat or Bird

2008-03-11T03:12:00.000-07:00

When traveling, the most important thing to do is to take frequent breaks. Always buckle your pet in with a harness if you are not using a crate while driving. The safest and most comfortable place for your pet during car travel is in the back seat. When you have your pet in the back seat, always have some sort of bar barrier between the front and back seat -such as the 10 Bar Euro Auto Pet Barrier - or use a hammock-style barrier. This keeps your pet out of the way when you're driving.

A great option for keeping your pet occupied during travel is some sort of cushioned booster seat, which are available for dogs up to 30 lbs. These booster seats are calming for animals that stress easily during travel. Your dog or cat will be able to watch the surroundings, and be cushioned for comfort. Some great booster seats are the Lookout I or II. An option for cat traveling is the Kittywalk Cozy Cabin. All have a seat belt harness for added safety.

Traveling with a bird can sometimes prove precarious. The best way to prepare your feathered friend is to acclimate your bird to a travel cage a few weeks prior to actually traveling. If you are using a crate, and your bird is calm around it, you can acclimate them to the crate. We recommend a travel cage when traveling by car. It allows your bird to look out and see you at the same time. This will provide comfort to your bird during the stress of travel. Some birds actually end up enjoying traveling - they get to look out the car window and see a whole new collection of sights!

Another thing to remember while traveling with your bird is environmental control. NEVER leave any animal in a car without environment control, regardless of the weather outside.

Unfortunately, when traveling with exotic birds such as parrots, theft is common. Never leave your windows rolled down or your doors unlocked when you have to leave a bird in your car. Get a few duplicate car keys and wear one around your neck while traveling. If you make a pit stop and you have to leave your car out of your sight with your bird inside, lock the doors with the car still running (for environmental control), and use your extra key to open the door when you get back. Only be gone for a minute or two at the most, and always cover your bird when you leave him behind in your car to deter theft.

Sun Conure Owner's Guide

2008-02-26T04:15:00.001-08:00

The sun conure is a small bird from the parrot family. It is known for its remarkable color patterns and its intelligence. This bird can be a great addition to your family if you learn what it needs and how to care for it.

The sun conure is only about twelve inches long from head to tail. They have a large head and beak with very striking colors. They usually have lots of yellow, orange and green on them. Their beak is black and their feet are gray. This bird originates from the eastern parts of South America, mostly by the Amazon River. It isn't found in as many places as it used to be found because people came and took the birds to sell them. They used to be found in Southeast Venezuela, Northeast Brazil, Northern Amazon, Guyana, Surinam and French Guiana.

One of the best things about this bird besides its beauty is how affectionate it is. They are extremely social and absolutely love to interact with their owners. They will just sit on your shoulder for hours and even like to be held! If you get this bird you will have to spend plenty of time with it. This definitely isn't a shy bird.

Because of how smart this bird is, it is even capable of doing tricks! Some can even be potty trained. They do have the capability to talk but they use a somewhat squeaky voice. The sun conure loves to perform for people and play. They also love to take baths so you should provide a bathing dish. If you don't put a bathing dish in their cage then they will splash around in their water bowl. You can also mist them with a water bottle because they truly enjoy this.

The minimum cage size for this bird is 20 inches long by 20 inches wide by 24 inches tall. You should put several perches in the cage of various sizes. Sun conures also love toys so make sure you get some for their cage. Try to get lots of toys so they will have something to do. They even like to play with things like toilet paper rolls!

You should feed your sun conure a base diet of pellet formula. You can also feed fortified parrot seed. These birds will need to be fed fruits and vegetables in addition to this base diet. You can't just feed them seeds and expect them to be healthy. Also, don't leave any fresh foods in their cage for more than a few hours though. Also make sure they have fresh water at all times. Make sure you never feed your bird avocado, cabbage, parsley and iceberg lettuce.

Sun conures do make really fun, fascinating pets, but you should be aware that they can be very noisy birds. They usually will start to scream in the mornings and evenings. It is an extremely loud scream. You have to be prepared for this. You also have to remember that they require lots of attention. If you take good care of your bird it can live to be about thirty years old.

Pet Canary Care

2008-02-26T04:11:00.000-08:00

If you're considering sharing your home with a pet canary, it's probably because you've heard so much about their nearly constant, bubbly singing. Join the club! Since the seventeenth century, pet owners the world over have kept canaries for nothing more than the sheer pleasure of birdsong filling their homes. A canary is not merely a feathered music box, though, and pet canary care is so much more than the gilded cage of old. A canary is a living thing, dependent on you for food, shelter, and love, and canary care, while not rocket science, involves a certain level of avian expertise. Ready to become an expert? Study hard!

Thanks to selective breeding, there's quite possibly a canary out there to suit every personality and desire. Some canaries are bred for their coloration, some are bred for their shape, and some, of course, are bred to produce a very specific song pattern. What kind of canary you purchase will depend on what canary resources are available near you. If you can find a reputable canary breeder, that will be your best option. Many pet stores now, however, commit to purchasing healthy birds only from reputable breeders, but check first to make sure that your canary was not wild caught or raised in less-than-desirable conditions. If the pet store manager can not account for where your potential canary came from, don't buy a canary from that store! Oh, and be sure that the canary you purchase is a male, if it's a strong singer you're after. The females are incapable of producing the characteristic long trills and melodies that made canaries famous.

Canaries can be quite delicate, so a primary part of learning to care for a pet canary is to realize that prevention is key. If there's a number one rule of pet canary care, it's that you absolutely must keep your canary away from drafts at all times. A drafty room can kill a canary without any warning whatsoever, and even a slight draft can prevent your canary from warbling. If a lit candle flickers when held outside your canary's cage, then you've picked a spot that's too drafty for your new feathered friend! As far as cages go, your canary doesn't require anything too spectacular-just enough room to hop about and stretch his wings. Make sure you purchase a cage that is at least two feet wide and three or four feet tall. Get a cage with a tray in the bottom to make for easy cleaning, and make sure that the bars of the cage are not coated with toxic paint or other chemical sealants. You should clean your canary's cage thoroughly at least once a week, washing perches, food and water containers, and toys in a mild bleach solution, and washing down the rest of the cage with dish soap and warm water.

While they can't stand drafts, canaries do love indirect sunlight. A good supply of natural light will keep your canary singing, and will also interest him in breeding should a female be present. If a draft will kill a canary the fastest, a second runner up is dehydration. Because of their speedy metabolisms, canaries require a lot of water and may die if they go as little as a day without it. Change your canary's water daily and never leave for more than a day without asking someone to water your canary for you. As for food, seed is the mainstay of a canary's diet, and there are many good commercially available seed mixes made specifically for canaries. You should supplement your canary's seed with a little fresh fruit and boiled egg every day. An apple slice and a fourth of a hard boiled egg is enough. You should also provide your canary with a cuttlebone, as he will gnaw on this to attain necessary calcium.

With these basic rules and supplies of pet canary care well in hand, you're ready to seek out the perfect canary for you. Will you choose a rosy red colorbred canary, an exotic Persian Singer, or something in between? Whatever your decision, your canary will thank you exuberantly for the next ten to fifteen years the best way he knows how-by singing his heart out.

Start Your Own Animal Kingdom With A Home Loan Mortgage Lender

2008-02-25T03:28:00.001-08:00

We all know that a dog is man’s best friend, but it actually holds true for cats, rabbits, hamsters, and even goldfishes as well. A pet is always a furry bundle of fun. For the ill, the troubled, and the lonely, having a pet is a valuable source of comfort and companionship. And they are always good for a laugh.

Animal Haters

Though you may move heaven and earth for your pet, you may find that other people don’t feel the same way. There will always be neighbors complaining about your dog’s bark in the middle of the night. If you’re renting an apartment, landlords often have aversions to pets and you may find yourself in a position of having to give up either your flat or your pet. Of course, animal lover that you are, there’s no doubt that you’ll choose the latter. But unless you can find a new home quickly, you and your furry friend may find yourselves out on the streets.

And They Lived Happily Ever After

Consider having a place of your own where you and your pet can have plenty of room to frolic and where no pesky landlord can rain on your parade. Wouldn’t that be nice? With this in mind, it’s time to have a talk with a home loan mortgage lender. Not only can a home loan mortgage lender help you become an owner and not a renter, you can also be sure that you and your furry companion will live a long and happy life together.

Almost The Vet

When you have finally established a relationship with a home loan mortgage lender, it’s time to think of the more meaningful relationship you have with your pet. Consider his or her needs as well as your own. Does your Labrador retriever have a lot of pent up energy just waiting to be released? Choose a house with a lot of space and a backyard where he or she can spend time chasing birds. Is your cat overweight and can’t move around very much? Choose a one-storey bungalow so he or she won’t have to climb up stairs.

Whatever your pet needs, your home loan mortgage lender can provide it. Well, probably not rawhide bones or neutering. That’s a job for the vet, not the home loan mortgage lender.

As Always, There’s Room For More

When you and your furry buddy finally move into your new home, it might be a shame not to share all the space that you now have. It may be time to find a companion for your companion. After all, who’s going to keep him or her company when you’re at work, slaving away to pay off your home loan mortgage lender? As they say, the more, the merrier, and that is indeed true with pets.

There’s nothing like a house filled with happy little puppies or kittens. It will be utter chaos! But that’s part of the fun, isn’t it? After all, you can never have too much company.

Tips For Keeping Your Pug Happy And Healthy

2008-02-25T03:23:00.000-08:00

Bringing home a Pug can change our life, but it is also a big responsibility. When you become a Pug owner, it is up to you to make sure that your pet's needs are met including, proper care, a safe environment and lots of love! Caring for a dog is a commitment, but has many rewards.

One of the most important things you can do to make sure your Pug has all the tools he needs to stay safe is to give him obedience training. A dog that is not properly trained will be a nuisance to others, while one that has the appropriate obedience training is a pleasure to be around. Many a dog has been considered a “bad” dog when all he really needed was the owner to take the time out to train him properly.

If you train your dog properly, not only will he have some cool tricks to show off, but it will also add to his safety. If your dog is properly trained, then you will be able to call him back to you should he be heading towards a dangerous situation. A well trained Pug Will be well behaved around strangers and the family – an obedient companion. Plus the training process can help define you as the master and act as a bonding experience for you and your pet.

The Pug is a very sociable dog as well as being extremely smart and quite stubborn. They are sensitive so yelling at him will not help you in training. Since Pugs are very smart they will train easily but can get bored with the same old lessons so you must always be showing them new tricks.

Also important for the health of your Pug is to provide your dog with excellent veterinary care. He should have a checkup every year and please make sure all vaccinations are up to date. Anytime you notice a difference in your Pugs behavior, schedule a vet appointment right away. Even a subtle change could be a sign of trouble and it’s better to be safe than sorry. Have your Pug neutered or spayed - they WILL be much happier.

Providing a safe environment for your Pug especially when he is a puppy, can help eliminate unfortunate accidents. Make sure every room your dog has free access too is “dog proofed” and there are no sharp objects or small pieces laying around that he could step on or eat. When guests come over, or if the kids are running in and out, make sure they know not to leave the door open so the dog can get out. Refrain from feeding your Pug food from the table as some of it can be harmful.

Grooming your Pug can help your pet look and feel his best. Cleaning his ears, brushing his fur, trimming his nails – these all contribute to the overall health and happiness of your pooch. Proper dental care is the most important grooming task you can do for your Pug. Without regular brusing, bacteria can build up in your dogs mouth. This bacteria can break away and cause serious health problems for your dog. Make sure you brush at least a couple of times a week and have a dental check up every year!

Hopefully you’ll never need to act on it, but you should have a plan for the dog in case of emergency. Your dog may be helpless in an emergency such as a fire or gas leak, so you need to plan on someone in the family being the one who is responsible for getting the dog out. Also, it is a good idea to make sure you have a “babysitter” you feel safe leaving your dog with in case an emergency takes you out of town suddenly.

Welcoming a Pug into your home as a pet, you are making a lifetime commitment to provide everything he needs for a healthy and happy life. Some Pugs can live for 15 years with good care – hopefully yours will live at least that long and the rewards you get from the loyal companionship of your pet will far outweigh the commitment you make to his health.

Siamese Cats - Unique Personality and Characteristics

2008-02-23T04:41:00.000-08:00

Dog and cat show veterans are required to know their breed’s ideal characteristics. The average pet owner chooses a pet for companionship and may not realize the complexities of various breeds. One of the most interesting pets is the Siamese cat.

The precise origin of Siamese cats is unknown. The breed may have descended from sacred temple cats in Siam, now known as Thailand. Siamese cats are distinguished by a creamy coat and unique dark “points” on the ears, face, tail and legs. These marks are not present from birth, because they are the result of an enzyme in the Siamese cats’ fur. The enzyme is not activated at normal body temperature, so the dark points appear on their extremities where temperatures are cooler. The points usually develop by the time the kitten is four weeks old.

For decades, the show standard for Siamese cats allowed only very dark brown, or seal colored, points. However, cross breeding produced cats with many pattern variations, including chocolate, lilac, blue and red points. Today, seal, chocolate, lilac and blue points are permissible for showing in the United States. As the cat ages, its creamy fur may turn to a pale shade of its point color. This is especially true of Siamese cats with seal colored points.

Originally, many Siamese cats had crooked tails and crossed eyes. The crossed eyes were caused by an overproduction of the enzyme that produces color points on the extremities. These traits are considered flaws in the show ring, so breeders work to eliminate them. Siamese cats are also known for their striking, bright blue eyes.

Siamese cats have as much in common with dogs as they do with other cats. They do not have the archetypal feline independent streak and can become extremely attached to their owners. Siamese cats are exceptionally intelligent; this intelligence makes them easy to train. Some even learn typically canine tricks, such as fetching and walking on a leash.

The Siamese cat has short, smooth hair that requires little extra grooming. A good brushing with remove extra hair and reduce shedding, and the cat may enjoy the gentle massage. However, this is not necessary, because they are as meticulous in grooming themselves as most cat breeds.

Neutering will usually prevent a male cat from spraying. This procedure can be done before the male cat is six months old. Those considering adopting a Siamese cat should be advised that females may go into heat as early as five months of age but should not be spayed until they have reached six months.

Siamese cats also have a very distinctive voice, which is often compared to a human baby’s cry. It can reach decibel levels as high as those of emergency sirens.

I'm Allergic To My Cat!

2008-02-23T04:39:00.000-08:00

Having a cat allergy came as something of a surprise to me. Growing up, I had many pets - cats, dogs and birds. My family were animal lovers and pets abounded, so being in contact with animals was a daily occurance. No one ever seemed to suffer from a cat allergy or any kind of animal allergy for that matter.

After my teens and my last pet had died, I wasn't in a position to take on another pet for many years. Then, eleven years ago, a friend of a cousin was looking for a home for their last remaining kitten. And so it was that Kira came into my life. This was a cat with attitude (and still is!) and we bonded pretty much immediately. While she was still a kitten, I'd put her in the kitchen overnight with a little cat bed to sleep in and the litter box close by.

As she grew older, I started letting her sleep in the bedroom. It's surprising how relaxing a cat's purring can be in wee small hours.

A little over a year later, when down with the vet getting some supplies, I heard that there was a kitten that needed a home or it would have to be put to sleep. And so, Fritz came home with me that day.

Unfortuately, Kira was less than impressed with this interloper and I had to keep the two separated for several days before an uneasy truce ensued.

They're an odd pair - Kira has attitude, Fritz is much more companionable; what you'd call a "gentle soul". She's still the Queen around the house and occasionally puts Fritz in his place with a right-hook to the face when she feels the need to assert her authority.

As Fritz matured, he also was allowed into the bedroom. Both he and Kira would sleep there during the day and night, as was their want.

We all know that cats are the greatest creature-comfort-seeking animals on the planet and a comfy place to catnap is one of their major concerns. But the place your cat chooses to snooze may not be your first choice. While I didn't mind the cats sleeping on the bed, I did take exception to Fritz's tendency to charge in from the garden and sleep in a basket of warm, freshly dried laundry straight from the dryer.

The Cornell University College of Veterinary Medicine recently conducted a poll of pet-owners on the sleeping habits of their pets and found that 60% of them sleep in bed with one of the family. Where cats are concerned, there are two potential problems here: one is that, somehow, they manage to take up 90% of the bed and the other has to do with allergies.

I found I had a mild cat allergy when I started producing weird wheezing noises any time I was doing something strenuous. Coughing eased it for a few minutes but it would always return. I figured I’d developed a mild form of asthma, probably due to bad air quality and pollution, so I went to the doctor to have it checked out. After listening to my lungs he asked me one question: "Do you have a cat?"

Well, yes, I did. Two in fact.

"You’re allergic to your cats", he intoned.

Then he asked if the cats slept in the bedroom. Of course they did.

"There’s your real problem", he said. "What you’re allergic to is the dander produced by your cats. When a cat sleeps on your bed, the dander ends up in the sheets and the duvet and you breathe it in deeply at night when you’re asleep. Not good. That’s what causes your wheeziness. Stop the cats sleeping in your bedroom for two or three weeks and see if that eases your symptoms. If not, you’ll probably need to use an inhaler for the rest of your life."

Ok, that last sentence kinda hit me between the eyes. Much as I love my two furballs, I didn’t want to suffer a long-lasting health problem that could possibly be avoided.

So why is dander such a problem? It's the layer of dead skin that's rich in animal protein, which is continuously shed by animals. Sebaceous (oil producing) glands in the skin also produce these protein allergens. Male cats have, on average, greater amounts of sebaceous secretions and therefore are more allergenic than female or neutered male cats. This is a result of testosterone hormone effects on sebaceous glands.

So, with that information and the prospect of an enduring health problem, I banned my cats from the bedroom, threw out the duvet (on the advice of the doctor), bought a new one and changed everything on the bed (including getting new pillows). I didn’t get too much sleep the first few nights with the cats meowing and scratching on the door to get in but they got used to the idea, finally. After three weeks in a cat free bedroom, my wheeziness had all but disappeared. The cats haven’t been allowed back in since.

Should you find yourself with a similar cat allergy problem, banning the cat from your bedroom is one possible course of action. Alternatively, you can get your cat his own cat bed and put that somewhere out of harm's way (yours and the cat's).

Since finding out I was mildly allergic to my cats, I've spoken to other cat owners about it and quite a number also suffer some mild form of allergic reaction - sneezing, wheezing, watering eyes, blocked sinuses and so on. Owners appear to become at least somewhat immune to their own cats insofar as the symptoms are not as pronounced as they become when they're around other people's cats.

But, having said that, none of us would ever part with our feline companions and would exhort others to adopt a cat as a pet, as the benefits far outweigh any minor inconveniences.

Animal dander allergy can significantly contribute to respiratory problems involving the sinuses, nasal passages, and eyes, as well as causing upper respiratory tract problems that can result in asthma (as in my case). These problems can significantly diminish your quality of life despite various medical treatments. For some people, it can be even more serious, leading to recurrent acute asthmatic attacks that can be life threatening, requiring emergency room visits and hospitalizations. The good news is that most people who are allergic to their pets can keep their symptoms under control if they know the facts.

Serious Health Signs in Pets

2008-02-21T01:16:00.000-08:00

When do you know you have to take your pet to the veterinarian? If you answer yes to any of these questions, then the time is immediately. There might be other signs, but these are the basic ones experts insist you must pay attention to:

1. Has your pet lost its appetite for more than two days?

2. Has your pet vomited more than twice?

3. Has your pet had diarrhea for more than two days?

4. Does your pet vomit and have diarrhea?

5. Is your pet behaving with unusual listlessness - brooding, hiding in the bushes, lacking enthusiasm for its favorite activities?

6. Has your pet collapsed?

7. Has your pet had a seizure or an uncontrolled muscle spasm?

8. Does your pet seem confused or disoriented?

9. Is your pet walking into things or circling without apparent reason?

10. Is your pet's body temperature more than 103F?

11. Is your pet having problems with breathing?

12. Does your pet have discharges from mouth and/or nose and is it breathing fast?

13. Is your pet bleeding from the mouth, nose, ears, anus, vulva or penis?

14. Have you observed blood in your pet's stool or vomit?

15. Does your pet flinch in pain when touched, when getting up or lying down? Does it display other signs of pain?

16. Is your pet suffering from a bite, large cut, or cut that bleeds so profusely you cannot stop it?

17. Do you suspect a broken bone?

18. Have you any cause to think that your pet has eaten poison?

19. Does your pet drink abnormal amounts of water? Is it urinating excessively?

20. Is your cat acting strangely in the litter box?

21. Is your pet's ear inflamed or discharging?

22. Is your pet's eye swollen, glazed, protruding, or discharging purulent material? Is the pupil unusually dilated?

Take your pet to the vet as soon as you can if you pet has any of the following signs of illness:

1. Lack of alertness and interest in the world.

2. Discharges.

3. Scratching.

4. Dull coat, hair loss, or irritated, unhealthy skin.

5. Lameness.

6. Overweight or unexplained weight loss.

7. Coughing or sneezing.

8. Swellings.

9. Constipation or incontinence.

10. Bad breath, abnormal teeth or gums.

11. Scooting rear end on the ground.

Note about pet birds: See your vet if the bird acts sick, sneezes, or vomits. Observe stools for diarrhea or constipation. Separate the bird from other birds, and keep it warm.

How To Do Cat Litter Box Retraining

2008-02-21T01:15:00.000-08:00

Cats stop using the cat litter box for a number of reasons. Once you discover the reason why and correct it, you may need to re-train your cat to use her box again. Despite what you think, you can train a cat! For most cats, it's not hard. They instinctively want to use a place with sand-like material to do their business.

To re-train your cat back to her good litter box habits, confine her to one room. It's hard to say exactly for how long, but most cats are back in the habit within a week.

Pick a nice sunny room for kitty. Set up a clean cat litter box, food, water, toys, and bedding for her to sleep on. Be sure to put her food and water as far away from her litter box as possible.

Keep kitty in this room while you're gone. Many cat owners purchase kitty DVDs for their cat to watch all day long while they're gone. These DVDs feature birds, squirrels, chipmunks, and other critters that dart around. You can set up the DVD to play in a continuous loop all day long. These videos are also available in VHS tape format.

Let kitty out under your supervision. If she looks like she's heading for her favorite corner to make an illegal dump, get her back to her room immediately, and place her in the cat litter box. If she uses it, praise her.

Generally, cats "get it" very quickly. For one thing, they get lonely being in a room by themselves. For another, it's a cat's natural inclination to use a litter box. As long as you've corrected the source of her problem with the litter box, she'll go back to using it.

If you can't let your cat out and supervise her, be sure to visit kitty often. Sit in the room with her, and keep her company. Watch the DVD with her!

Confinement is not cruel if it's done properly. If your cat won't use the litter box during her confinement period, then the cat urine odor damage is limited to one room. If after a few days, your cat is still not using her cat litter box, please consult with your vet. There may a deeper issue that you simply can't tell from observation.

Nancy stopped the cat urine odor problem at her home, and kept the kitty that caused it. "18 Ways to Stop Cat Urine Odor Problems" saves you money, time and frustration by solving your cat urine odor problem - permanently.

Cat Toys - Make Your Pet Happy

2008-02-20T01:55:00.000-08:00

Christmas is right around the corner and the family cats would like to remind you not to leave them out this year. While many people think their pets don't understand Christmas; that's not true. While they may not understand the nuances of the holiday, cats and dogs do understand the excitement that fills the air around this time of year. While they may not understand the idea behind Santa, they know there is a lot of wrapping paper flying and that everyone around them is getting new things to play with.

You may have noticed that the cat has been crawling in the middle of everything going on and pawing at presents a time or two. That's because he wants to be a part of the family and take part in this family fun event, even if he doesn't completely understand what it's all about. So, make sure to remember this year to include the cat in these activities. It's not hard. Most cats have a certain type of cat toys they enjoy. You can purchase a few new toys for them to unwrap (with a little help from you).

If you want a really fun toy this year, here are some of the top cat toys on the Kitty Christmas 2007 List:

Da Bird Interactive Toy for Cats - This is a simple, yet very popular, cat toy. Think of a fishing pole with a stretchy piece of string and a feathered lure on the end. This is essentially what this toy is, minus the hooks. While it seems simple enough, it's amazingly popular with cats. You may even notice when you're not swinging the toy around your cat is trying to play with it by himself.

Mews Ments 5-in-1 Laser Pet Toy and Exerciser - This present is like having a number of cat toys in one. It's one of the laser pointer key chains you may have seen in the past, but this one has fun designs that a cat will like to chase, including a mouse and butterfly. You can kick back and whirl the laser around the room and watch your cat get quite a workout trying to catch the flashing images. This is one of the cat toys that seem to entertain the whole family as they watch the cat chase the light pattern. Just make sure not to shine the pattern directly in the cat's eyes.

If you really want to have a good time, you may be able to take a couple good-smelling cat treats and lightly wrap them in paper, letting the cat rip it open. Just watch that your cat is not eating the paper. Some cats will rip the paper, other cats will eat it, If yours is prone to eating, don't try this.

Another tactic to take is to put a few cat treats in a small box that the cat will have to knock around to open. You can give him the same attention that you give the kids when it's time to open presents and he well may be very excited to be taking part in the family event.

Epilepsy in Dogs and Cats

2008-02-19T02:03:00.001-08:00

Epilepsy is a non progressive brain disorder that induces recurrent seizures. It is very important to understand that there are numerous disorders that can cause seizures, and in order to make a diagnosis of true epilepsy, many of these other causes must be ruled out.

What is a Seizure?

A seizure is the clinical manifestation of a cerebral disorder that can appear suddenly out of a background of normality, and then disappear with equal abruptness. The term fit is often used colloquially when referring to a seizure.

In humans, an epileptic seizure is a definable event that can be classified according to categories set by the International League Against Epilepsy. A formal classification system specifically for dogs and cats does not exist, but seizures can nevertheless be classified as either partial or generalized episodes.

Partial Seizures

These are seizures in which a localized onset may be determined. They usually have a congenital (present at birth) or an acquired (cancer, encephalitis) cause, and can sometimes evolve into a secondary generalized seizure.

Generalized Seizures

Generalized seizures are the most common type of seizures in dogs and cats. There are several variations of these seizures:

1. Absence seizures (petit mal): sudden brief loss of consciousness, rare in animals
2. Myoclonic seizures: muscle jerk of one or more muscles
3. Clonic seizures: rhythmic muscle contractions
4. Tonic seizures: increase in muscle tone in all skeletal muscles
5. Tonic Clonic seizures (grand mal): the most common form of seizure in pets

Tonic Clonic Seizures

Tonic Clonic (grand mal) seizures account for 60% of seizures in cats and 80% of seizures in dogs. They are usually accompanied by a loss of consciousness, and consist of a tonic phase, where the increased muscle tone causes the animal to fall on its side with its limbs extended, and a clonic phase, consisting of intense muscle jerking or paddling movements.

Causes of Seizures

In order to diagnose true epilepsy, other causes of seizures must be first ruled out. The questions a veterinarian must answer are:

Is the cause inside the brain or outside the brain?

If inside the brain, is the cause progressive (e.g. cancer, infection) or non progressive (epilepsy)?

If outside the brain, does the cause originate inside the body (e.g. low blood glucose, kidney failure, a liver problem) or outside the body (e.g. lead poisoning, organophosphate toxicity)?

Making a Diagnosis

If an animal has a solitary seizure, most veterinarians will advise against expensive and time consuming tests for something that may never happen again. If an animal has more than one seizure though, tests are indicated.

A veterinarian will start by taking a detailed case history, focusing on the description of the animals seizures, their frequency and duration, and the animals behavior between seizures. Ideally the seizure should be videotaped by the owner, and then shown to the veterinarian. It is important to differentiate a proper seizure from other causes of collapse such as an episode of syncope (where the heart misses several beats), narcolepsy or weakness due to another neurological problem (e.g. myasthenia gravis). Features of the description which indicate a seizure are:

1. Tonic (increased muscle tone) and clonic (jerky) muscle movements
2. Loss of consciousness (though not always)
3. Increased salivation
4. Spontaneous urination or defaecation

The veterinarian will then conduct a full clinical examination, followed by a more specific neurological examination. Blood will then be taken for full hematology and biochemistry profiles. A fasting blood glucose is useful to rule out hypoglycaemia, which is a frequent cause of seizures in dogs less than 6 months old and dogs with an insulinoma, an insulin secreting pancreatic tumor. If liver enzymes are raised, a further liver function test (bile acid stimulation) may be done. Blood lead levels should be measured in animals that may have had access to lead containing materials.

Xrays of the chest and abdomen are sometimes performed to check for any other significant disease, and fecal analysis is recommended in puppies with seizures as heavy parasite burdens have been implicated.

If all of the above tests are normal, and no disease outside the brain has been detected, many animals will be diagnosed with epilepsy as further tests are of the expensive variety. If further tests for intracranial (within the brain) disease are to be performed, cerebrospinal fluid (CSF) analysis is the first step. CSF is tested for the presence of viral (e.g. Canine Distemper, Rabies), bacterial, fungal (e.g. Cryptococcus) and protozoal (e.g. Toxoplasmosis) infections. Electroencephalography (EEG) is useful for diagnosing malformations present since birth, such as hydrocephalus. Brain tumors are often only able to be diagnosed by advanced imaging techniques such as Computed Tomography (CT) Scanning or Magnetic Resonance Imaging (MRI). These must be done under general anesthesia as the animal must be completely motionless during the scan.

Treatment of Epilepsy

Once a tentative diagnosis of epilepsy has been made (by excluding all the other known causes of seizures), the animal can be prescribed anticonvulsant drugs. These drugs are not appropriate for animals with seizures caused by a problem outside the brain. The overall goal of anticonvulsant therapy is to eradicate all seizure activity, but this is rarely achieved. Most pets benefit from anticonvulsant drugs by reducing the frequency, severity and duration of their seizures. A more realistic goal is to reduce the frequency of the seizures to a level that is acceptable for the owner, without having negative side effects for the animal. A minority of animals require such high doses of anticonvulsant drugs to suppress their seizures that the adverse effects caused by it outweigh the benefits.

Since epilepsy is not curable, the owner must be prepared to give the medication for the rest of the animals life. However, if after being on anticonvulsant medication for over a year no seizures have occurred, a cautious slow reduction in dose can be attempted.

The three most commonly used drugs in the treatment of epilepsy in cats and dogs are:

1. Diazepam

Known to many by its trade name Valium, diazepam is used in emergency short term situations to treat animals in status epilepticus, i.e. during a seizure. It is best administered intravenously so that it is delivered to the brain quickly, though finding a vein or placing a catheter in a fitting animal can be a challenge. In those situations, it is sometimes given rectally, where it is fairly rapidly absorbed across the rectal wall. If status epilepticus continues despite the repeated administration of diazepam, phenobarbitone can be given intravenously.

2. Phenobarbitone

Phenobarbitone is the most commonly prescribed anticonvulsant drug for both canine and feline epilepsy, owing to its efficacy and its low cost. Over three quarters of epileptic dogs have their seizures controlled by phenobarbitone alone. Sometimes it can take several weeks for the level of phenobarbitone in the blood stream to reach a high enough level to work properly, so many vets favor using a higher loading dose initially, reducing it for the maintenance phase. However, care must be taken as high doses of phenobarbitone can cause liver damage, and liver enzymes should be periodically checked in animals on long term therapy. Annual blood tests are also advised to check serum concentration levels of the drug, to calibrate the dose effectively. High doses can also cause sedation.

3. Potassium Bromide

A proportion of dogs are resistant to phenobarbitone. In such dogs, the addition of potassium bromide, i.e. a second drug, can be tried. The potassium bromide may also be tried alone as an alternative to phenobarbitone, but generally only after phenobarbitone has been thoroughly investigated at various doses and found to be inadequate. Phenobarbitone is also deemed unsuitable if the dog has liver dysfunction of any kind, in these cases potassium bromide (often referred to simply as bromide as that is the therapeutic part) can be used. Potassium bromide is not used in cats, only diazepam and phenobarbitone are recommended in this species.

Bird Feeders - What Type Of Bird Feeder Should I Use?

2008-02-19T02:00:00.000-08:00

Variety is the most important consideration when setting up a new bird feeding area around your house. Since different bird species have different feeding preferences, the best way to attract a variety of species is to place several different feeders around your yard. You can provide millet and cracked corn on the ground or in tray feeders near ground level for sparrows, doves and quail; sunflower seeds are highly preferred by most songbirds and can be offered at tabletop level or higher to attract chickadees, cardinals, grosbeaks, titmice and house finches; thistle feeders can be placed at the same level predominately for American goldfinches; and suet feeders on tree trunks or hanging from tree limbs for woodpeckers, chickadees, creepers and nuthatches.

Feeders designed to exclude certain birds because of size, weight or behavior can help make your more expensive grain available only to preferred species. Tube feeders that are surrounded by a wire cage will keep larger birds like jays away from your sunflower seed. A tube feeder without a tray below it will restrict access to only small birds and if you remove the perches you've restricted the feeder to only those birds that can cling like finches, chickadees, nuthatches, titmice and woodpeckers. If starlings or jays are a problem at your suet feeder, discourage them by using a suet feeder with access only from the bottom. Starlings and jays are reluctant to perch upside down but your preferred species are not.

Separating feeders for different kinds of seed will also reduce competition at feeders and avoid unnecessary waste. Watch a feeder filled with a seed mix and you'll see the birds methodically drop or kick out most of the seeds to get to their favorite, sunflower seed. The most effective way to attract the largest variety of birds to your yard is to put out specific feeders for each food. These would include:

* A starling-resistant suet feeder

* A caged tube feeder for sunflower

* A bluebird feeder for meal worms

* A wire mesh cage feeder for peanuts

* A nectar feeder

* A tube feeder for thistle

* A stationary or tray fruit feeder

* A house or platform feeder for millet

When selecting feeder locations, consider visibility from your home, distance from shrubs and proximity to good perches. If at all possible choose southern exposures to give the birds a warmer, more protected area to congregate out of the wind. Try to locate feeders within 20 feet of nearby shrubs or thicket cover. This gives birds a place to escape if hawks or cats attack. Avoid placing feeders over shrubs however as this may give cats a hiding place for stalking birds.

Now that we have discussed different types of feeders, let's talk about what kind of seed is preferred by which species of bird. As previously stated, sunflower seeds are the favorite of chickadees, evening grosbeaks, tufted and plain titmice, nuthatches, blue jays, house finches, purple finches, woodpeckers and cardinals. As long as sunflower seed is available, these birds won't eat much else at feeders. The attraction is probably due to the fact that they have higher proportions of fat and protein than other common grains. For these reasons it is best to offer pure sunflower seed in separate feeders to prevent these birds from digging through and wasting mixed seed to get to the sunflower seed.

Proso millet comes in two varieties, white and red. Although both types are readily eaten, most species prefer white proso millet. Here is a list of the species that prefer millet: tree sparrow, song sparrow, brown-headed cowbird, dark-eyed junco, house sparrow, mourning dove, and white-throated sparrow.

Nyjer seed, also known as thistle is another high fat, high protein food. It is an excellent though very expensive food for finches. American goldfinches love nyjer seed as do the purple finch, house finch, redpoll, pine siskin, chickadee, mourning dove, song sparrow, white-throated sparrow, and dark-eyed junco. Special nyjer feeders with tiny holes help reduce spillage and competition from non-finches whose beaks are too large to remove seeds from the tiny holes. These feeders are superior to the mesh bag feeders that produce substantial amounts of seed spillage.

By utilizing a variety of feeders with a variety of feeds, you will have a diverse community of birds to enjoy in your own backyard.

Bird Feeders - What Type Of Bird Feeder Should I Use?

2008-02-18T01:39:00.001-08:00

How Sensible Is Cooking Your Own Dog Or Cat Food?

2008-02-18T01:36:00.000-08:00

The first thing to remember when considering home cooking for your pet is the simple truth that you are NOT cooking for a person, you are cooking for an animal - that might seem obvious, but so many pet owners treat their pets as if they were children.

Dogs, cats and people have different nutritional needs and some foods which are fine for you can be dangerous to them - you must take this into consideration.

Some pet owners begin feeding home cooked food because they find that their pet is not too interested in the commercial food being offered. Eventually they find themselves trapped because the pet will now not eat any commercially prepared food, and home cooking now constitutes 100% of the animal's daily intake. In these cases, arranging a diet composed of foods commonly used in the household may be the only way of delivering a balanced diet to the pet.

In some European countries homemade foods already supply an estimated 35% of cats with 60% of their caloric intake. When the pet receives more than half its daily calories from table foods, the whole diet should then be formulated to ensure a proper nutrient intake and avoid the dangers of obesity or other health problems.

Really, it's up to you and the ingredients that you have to hand, but a good guide to follow would be that given by Veterinary Surgeon John Burns of Burns Pet Nutrition who advises the following proportions of a home made diet for dogs

1/3 rd by volume boiled brown rice

1/3 rd by volume meat (this should be varied regularly using chicken, fish, lamb, beef)

1/3 rd by volume vegetable, again varied using roots and greens and to include some seaweed (dried or fresh)

John Burns adds 'I have less experience in the use of home made food for cats but in general cats need a higher level of protein and less carbohydrate.

'This could be achieved by increasing the meat portion to 50% with the rice and vegetable portions of 25% each. Again, some seaweed should be included to provide trace minerals.'

Cats have a very specific requirement for meat, and can't survive without several essential amino-acids found only in meat. So a vegetarian diet for a cat is really not on. Also limit the amount of liver you feed your cat (to avoid an excess of Vit A) and make sure to cook fish (regular feeding of raw fish can apparently lead to a vitamin B deficiency)

A few good foods to include

Vegetables - Green vegetables are a great way of boosting your dogs immune system, you can feed these raw or cooked. Raw carrot makes a healthy treat. Vegetables are possibly better for dogs than fruit. Potato must be cooked, and mashed potato is a suitable ingredient for home cooking.

Fruit - in the wild, dogs would have scavenged windfall fruit as well as digesting the remains of fruit eaten by other animals when they pick over the carcass, so giving your dog fruit is not as strange as it might sound. Fresh fruit is packed full of anti-oxidants, vitamins and all sorts of other healthy nutrients, so it's great for keeping your dog in top condition. Some fruits are quite acidic (as well as sugary) and may not be good for dogs with skin or digestive complaints.

Grains - Rice is universally recommended, and brown rice preferred, but make sure that it is well cooked so that your pet can get the maximum goodness.

Meat and fish - Vary the protein that you are feeding, so that a good range of amino acids is provided. Fish, particularly oily varieties are a good source of omega 3 and 6 oils.

Yoghurt - this is a great source of protein, calcium and vitamins, and is particularly good for dogs with diarrhoea thanks to the probiotics it contains.

Cottage cheese - another surprisingly healthy dairy food which is great for growing puppies and lactating bitches.

Brewer's yeast - Can be purchased from health food stores or chemists as a food supplement and is full of nutrients and vitamins. You only need to use about 1/2 tsp a day with recipes.

A few things to avoid

There are a few "No's" when it comes to selecting ingredients for home cooking. Veterinary Surgeons would tend to advise against the following foodstuffs, or at least to be wary of feeding large quantities:

Mushrooms: best avoided as some dogs will not tolerate mushrooms well and they can cause serious toxicity.

Chocolate: Chocolate contains theobromine. Theobromine is a similar compound to caffeine and stimulates the heart and nervous system. In dogs it can poison them with death occurring from heart failure. Cats may not metabolise chocolate in the same way as dogs but are also thought to be at risk.

Onions (and garlic) OK in small quantities, but be careful. Can cause blood problems including anaemia.

Cows milk: Cats and dogs along with most other mammals lose, to a variable extent, their ability to digest lactose (milk sugar) with age, because the activity of the enzyme lactase declines with age

Macadamia nuts: The toxic compound is unknown but the affect of macadamia nuts is to cause locomotory difficulties. Dogs develop a tremor of the skeletal muscles, and weakness or paralysis of the hindquarters. Affected dogs are often unable to rise and are distressed, usually panting. Some affected dogs have swollen limbs and show pain when the limbs are manipulated.

Tomatoes: a small amount of ripe tomato is unlikely to cause any problems, but green tomatoes can cause stomach upsets so it's best to avoid them.

Grapes: The ASCPA (Animal Poison Control Centre in the USA) has recently published information stating the toxicity of raisins and grapes in dogs (they do not know how they affect cats yet, but advise to avoid feeding them anyway). Eating just a handful of raisins and grapes has been shown to cause kidney failure.

Fatty foods: Very fatty foods may lead to problems such as pancreatitis. The pancreas releases enzymes to help digest the food. Pancreatitis is a very painful inflammatory condition associated with the ingestion of fatty foods.

You need to be aware that there has always been a voice out there arguing that home cooking is not the best way of feeding. Here is a quote from the Canadian Veterinarian Association pamphlet on pet food, 'A Commonsense Guide to Feeding Your Dog or Cat:'

"Why Are Homemade Diets Not Recommended? Homemade diets are not recommended because there is a good chance that all the necessary nutrients or the proper proportions will not be provided. Incorrect preparation and cooking may also deplete certain nutrients and result in a deficient diet. As well, homemade diets are usually more expensive to produce, without providing better nutrition."

Protected Cat or Dog Yard - Build Your Pets Their Own Enclosed Outside Turf

2008-02-14T01:48:00.001-08:00

Would your pet cat or dog like being outside some of the time? Would you prefer they were safely enclosed while enjoying the fresh air, plant life, and scents of nature? You can easily create a protected outdoor haven for your pets, while insuring your own peace of mind. This article will tell you how to plan and build a private protected pet yard from start to finish. Sections include choosing location, size, roof cover, furnishings, supplies, and construction of the enclosure.

LOCATION

Begin by choosing the best spot for your pet's private bit of nature. Consider an existing patio or corner of your traditional yard. In our own case, my husband and I built our cats' yard over a partially covered patio located next to the back of the house. The end result provided protection on rainy days as well as a lattice-roofed section open to the sky. You might also consider adding a pet door leading to your home. Pets really like the freedom of going "outside" whenever in the mood. Our cats enjoy middle of the night watches for roaming wildlife such as raccoons and possums - all from the safety of their own protected yard!

SIZE

Determine how large of an area is practical for you to enclose. Take your pets' size and needs into consideration. While your cats or dogs won't be able to romp as freely as those on the loose, they will enjoy having enough space to prowl around their own little yard. In our case, an enclosure of 14' x 16' provided enough room for many hours of cat snooping enjoyment plus space for batting twigs, hunting insects and other fun.

ROOF COVER

If your enclosure will be for cats, you will definitely want to cover it with a lattice roof. This will keep your pets inside their private yard where you want them, and other wandering animals out. An enclosure built for small dogs, on the other hand, might not require roofing.

FURNISHINGS

All kinds of natural and other furnishings of your pet's private yard will enhance their enjoyment. Including a section of lawn is good, or adding pots of grasses and nibbling greens. Flowerbeds and plants provide necessary bathroom spaces. Other ideas are pet beds, outdoor chairs or survey perches. Toys are fun for pets outside as well as inside, and there will be a steady stream of crawling bugs and flying insects provided by nature to observe.

SUPPLIES

You will need the following supplies to build your pet enclosure:

Vertical wood supports - 4x4s work will
Vinyl or wood lattice panels - 4'x8's work well
Small trim board - 1x2 works well
Wood support boards for roof - 2x__ rafters
Cap board - 2x4
Pre-made gate or one constructed from the same materials as the enclosure

CONSTRUCTION

Follow these steps to build your protected pet yard:

1. Put up vertical supports, determining spacing distance by width of lattice panels

2. Place lattice trim boards between 4x4 supports

3. Put up lattice panels against trim boards, and sandwich in with additional trim boards

4. Continue building process until enclosure is complete

5. Add gate

6. Run a cap across top of 4x4s

7. Attach 2x__ rafters 24" apart to cap board and to house or other side if free standing

8. Attach lattice or other roofing material to top of enclosure

Once construction is complete, introduce your pet cats or dogs to their new private yard. They will soon be enjoying their own outdoor turf, and you the protection that it provides.

Brain Tumors in Dogs and Cats

2008-02-14T01:46:00.000-08:00

Though relatively uncommon, a brain tumor has always made a grim prognosis for unfortunate animal that is diagnosed with one. Traditionally they were often assumed but seldom confirmed, but since MRI and CT scanning has become more mainstream they can be diagnosed correctly. Here we discuss the different types of brain tumor that affect dogs and cats, the clinical investigations that can be performed, the treatments available and the likely outcomes.

Brain tumors seem to be more common in dogs than cats, and certain breeds are over represented such as Boxers, Golden Retrievers, Dobermans, Scottish Terriers and Old English Sheepdogs.

Primary vs Secondary

Brain tumors can be primary or secondary (metastasis from other sites). Primary brain tumors are usually solitary, the most common ones in the dog being gliomas and meningiomas. In cats, the most common type are meningiomas and these can occur at multiple locations.

Secondary tumors in dogs include extension of a nasal tumor, metastases from breast, lung or prostate cancer, hemangiosarcoma or extension of a pituitary gland tumor. Nerve sheath tumors and skull tumors have also been reported. Secondary tumors in cats include pituitary gland tumors, metastatic carcinomas, local extension of nasal tumors, skull tumors and middle ear cavity tumors.

What causes a brain tumor?

The cause of brain tumors is not known. Diet, environment, chemical, genetic, viral, immunologic and trauma have all been considered. In cats with meningiomas, because they often occur in very young animals, a genetic element is suspected.

Benign vs Malignant

The terms benign and malignant must be used with care when referring to brain tumors. Normally these terms apply to various characteristics on a cellular level, but on a biological level, even benign brain tumors can kill the animal due to the secondary effects like increased intracranial pressure or cerebral edema. In short, any brain tumor can kill.

What are the symptoms?

There can be huge variety here. Many animals will present with vague signs, such as one or several of the following:

1. Loss of trained habits

2. Decreased levels of activity

3. Decreased frequency of purring in cats

4. Disorientation

5. Confusion More specific symptoms are dependent upon where exactly the tumor is located within the brain, the size of the tumor and how quickly it is growing. As a tumor enlarges, symptoms tend to become more severe. These can include:

6. Seizures (often indicate a tumor in the cerebral cortex)

7. Facial paralysis (may indicate a brainstem tumor)

8. Tremors (may indicate a tumor in the cerebellum)

9. Wobbliness (may indicate a tumor in the cerebellum)

10. Full or partial blindness (may indicate tumor in hypothalamus or optic nerve)

11. Loss of smell (may indicate tumor of olfactory system)

The physical presence of the tumor can cause knock on effects due to inflammation and edema of the surrounding area. This can cause symptoms such as:

12. Changes in behaviour or temperament (irritability, lethargy)

13. Compulsive walking

14. Circling

15. Pressing head against a wall or hard surface

Animals can sometimes carry brain tumors for several years before presenting to a veterinary clinic, if the tumor is slow growing. In these cases the symptoms develop gradually, and the owner tends to get used to them so that by the time the animal is examined, the tumor has reached a considerable size.

How is a brain tumor diagnosed?

History and Clinical Examination

The first step for a veterinarian is to take a thorough history of all of the clinical signs, and when they developed. This is followed by a full general clinical examination and a full neurological examination.

Bloods

After that, blood should be taken for routine haematology and biochemistry profiles. This is to look for any disease outside the brain. Results will be normal for brain tumors, with the possible exception of some pituitary gland tumors.

Radiography

Plain skull radiographs (xrays) under general anesthetic have little value in detecting a brain tumor, but they can be useful if there is a tumor in the nasal cavities or the middle ear which could extend into the skull. On rare occasions, they can identify bony changes in the skull which can accompany a brain tumor, or mineralization within the tumor itself. Radiographs and ultrasound of the chest and abdomen are useful to look for a tumor elsewhere in the body, in cases where the brain tumor is a secondary metastasis.

MRI and CT Scans

Confirmation of a brain tumor can is usually only achieved using the advanced imaging techniques, CT scans or MRI. Both of these have pros and cons when compared to one another. CT is better for bony changes, while MRI is better for soft tissue definition, for the detection of many of the knock on effects of brain tumors such as edema, cysts and bleeding. MRI is the preferred option for diagnosing primary brain tumors.

Biopsy

This is the only way to definitively diagnose a brain tumor. The advanced imaging techniques above offer much information, but they can occasionally confuse a tumor with a non cancerous mass or a cyst, and they also do not tell us the exact type of tumor present, and therefore the appropriate treatment and prognosis. The best type of biopsy is the CT guided stereotactic brain biopsy system, which is rapid, accurate and quite safe. Since exploratory surgery is high risk, it is not usually attempted unless there is a reasonable chance of removing the whole tumor with minimal collateral damage. Many brain tumors in cats and dogs are not categorized on a cellular level until post mortem.

Cerebrospinal Fluid (CSF) Analysis

CSF analysis is useful for ruling out inflammatory causes of the symptoms, but tumor cells are rarely identified here. Increased levels of white blood cells and increased protein levels may be present in the CSF with many brain tumors, though this is not diagnostic. This test can be high risk when intracranial pressure is increased, as brain herniation can occur.

Treatment

Treatment is aimed at being either curative or palliative. Curative treatment eradicates the tumor or reduces its size, whilst palliative therapy reduces the surrounding cerebral edema and slows down the growth of the tumor. Palliative therapy also involves administering antiepileptic drugs, if seizures are occurring as a result of the tumor.

Surgery

Whether this is an option depends on the general health of the animal, and the precise location, size, extent, invasiveness and nature of the tumor. Tumors such as meningiomas in cats can be removed successfully by surgery. However, surgery to remove tumors in certain locations such as the brainstem can be extremely dangerous, possibly resulting in death. Even partial removal can benefit the animal though, particularly if the tumor is slow growing.

Radiotherapy

This is probably the most widely used form of treatment for brain tumors. Radiation therapy can be used alone or in combination with other treatments. It is also useful in the treatment of secondary brain tumors. The aim is to destroy the tumor without harming the normal tissue too much.

Chemotherapy

The main problem with chemotherapy for brain tumors is that many drugs do not cross the blood brain barrier. In addition, the tumor may only be sensitive to high doses, doses which are toxic to normal brain tissue and therefore unsuitable for use. However, several drugs have been used for this purpose that can cross the blood brain barrier with reported success, including cytosine arabinoside, lomustine and carmustine.

Probable Outcome

Studies of animals that receive palliative treatment (corticosteroids) for brain tumors show a survival range post diagnosis of 64 to 307 days. This demonstrates the inability to accurately predict life expectancy in these cases. What is certain is that the survival times significantly increase with surgery, radiotherapy or chemotherapy. Radiation therapy seems to offer the best results, alone or in combination with other treatments. Generally, the more severe the symptoms, the shorter the life expectancy.

History of Domestic Pets

2008-02-13T02:26:00.001-08:00

Pets have been around since the beginning of time. Cats are among the first to be domesticated. They were thought to be domesticated from the African wild cat. The cat is a predator and very intelligent. They supposedly hunt over 1,000 species. Cats have been domestic pets since Ancient Egypt times. They were around in circa 4000 b.c. and their job was keeping mice and rats away. Although this was what they were initially kept for, cats are trainable and obey simple commands, so after a while they became a companion.

The dog was domesticated from Wolves as recent as 15,000 years ago or possibly as early as 100,000 years ago. Domestication is the way we as humans biologically altered a mammal to live in our company. The dog was thought to have been from East Asia. The early settlers brought domestic dogs over to North America with them. The first were the Chow, Shar Pei, Akita Inu, Shiba Inu and the Basenji. These breeds are associated with China, which seems to be behind the theory of domestic dogs originating in East Asia. Dogs are very social animals, which is probably why we brought them into our households. They are trainable, playful and lovable. Most dogs are “pack” oriented. They treat the human owner as one of their pack or as their pack leader as they would another dog. Dogs were initially used for work and protection and then in time became more like a part of the family.

There is really only a small number of animals we would actually consider pets. The first were dogs, cats and birds. Pets have over the years been known for several things. Even though we do not know the exact original origin of domesticated animals, we do know the reasons for humans need for them. The reasons people have these domestic animals are far and wide. Health is huge one. Studies say that people live longer healthier lives when they have a pet as a companion. Loneliness is another one. Pets are affectionate loving creatures that cure loneliness for many people. Dogs especially have taken an amazing role in leading the blind. Dogs are trained to protect and lead a blind person in everyday life.

Regardless of your reason for owning a pet, it is clear that pets serve a distinct function in human day-to-day life. It is also clear that pets are here to stay whether you are a dog lover, a cat lover or use pets for other recreational events such as equestrian activities or hunting we know that you love and care for your pets.

Safe Traveling For Your Dog, Cat or Bird

2008-02-13T02:25:00.000-08:00

Every pet owner is faced with the prospect of having to travel with their dog, cat or bird at some point. Whether it is a few days or a few weeks, there are steps and products you can employ to make this a comfortable - if not fun - time for your pet!

When traveling, the most important thing to do is to take frequent breaks. Always buckle your pet in with a harness if you are not using a crate while driving. The safest and most comfortable place for your pet during car travel is in the back seat. When you have your pet in the back seat, always have some sort of bar barrier between the front and back seat -such as the 10 Bar Euro Auto Pet Barrier - or use a hammock-style barrier. This keeps your pet out of the way when you're driving.

A great option for keeping your pet occupied during travel is some sort of cushioned booster seat, which are available for dogs up to 30 lbs. These booster seats are calming for animals that stress easily during travel. Your dog or cat will be able to watch the surroundings, and be cushioned for comfort. Some great booster seats are the Lookout I or II. An option for cat traveling is the Kittywalk Cozy Cabin. All have a seat belt harness for added safety.

Traveling with a bird can sometimes prove precarious. The best way to prepare your feathered friend is to acclimate your bird to a travel cage a few weeks prior to actually traveling. If you are using a crate, and your bird is calm around it, you can acclimate them to the crate. We recommend a travel cage when traveling by car. It allows your bird to look out and see you at the same time. This will provide comfort to your bird during the stress of travel. Some birds actually end up enjoying traveling - they get to look out the car window and see a whole new collection of sights!

Another thing to remember while traveling with your bird is environmental control. NEVER leave any animal in a car without environment control, regardless of the weather outside.

Unfortunately, when traveling with exotic birds such as parrots, theft is common. Never leave your windows rolled down or your doors unlocked when you have to leave a bird in your car. Get a few duplicate car keys and wear one around your neck while traveling. If you make a pit stop and you have to leave your car out of your sight with your bird inside, lock the doors with the car still running (for environmental control), and use your extra key to open the door when you get back. Only be gone for a minute or two at the most, and always cover your bird when you leave him behind in your car to deter theft.

The Bird Watchers' Ethical Code

2008-02-12T02:00:00.000-08:00

If you're not a professional bird watcher or tour guide then there are a few things that you need to know before venturing out to start your new hobby. Believe it or not, you can't just do what you like, where you like and there is a strict code of ethics, even for amateur bird watchers.

Right to Roam

In Britain nowadays, it would seem that the rights of many landowners have been eroded and that ramblers can go wherever they please. However, this isn't always the case and it is, in any case, a common courtesy to seek the approval of the owner before you go trampling all over this property. If the landowner requests that you do not go through certain areas, then do observe his wishes and likewise if he asks that you keep to the edge of fields, etc. then do so. If, while bird watching on private property, your target bird moves off into forbidden territory, you'll just have to let him go. Don't think that because you've seen a rare bird, the landowners wishes can be ignored.

In addition, just treat the landowner's property as you would wish your own to be treated; don't drop litter, don't be noisy and Use your common sense to guide you when bird watching on private property: don't litter, don't make any noise and don't do any damage.

Care for the Environment

When you pack your rucksack to go out bird watching, be sure to include a plastic bag or two so that you can bring your rubbish home with you. Never, never drop litter out in the countryside (or anywhere else for that matter) irrespective of whether others have done so before you; you don't have to follow their bad example.

Care for the Birds

Never do anything which can have an adverse effect on the birds themselves. They didn't ask for you to be watching them and they have the right to carry on their lives undisturbed, so always check with yourself whether anything you're doing could be upsetting the birds.

Photographing Birds

Don't get too close to the birds when you're photographing them, particularly if you're using a flash as this could be very frightening for the birds and may interrupt their normal routines. Use a camera with a zoom lens with a decent magnification and if it's very large, you'll need a tripod too to prevent camera shake.

Parking Your Car

When you go bird watching, remember that you may be gone for some time so be thoughtful about where you park your vehicle. Never block gates or paths or indeed, any form of entrance.

Your Mobile Phone

It's essential to take your mobile with you, in case of accidents or incidents while out bird watching. In addition, the owner of the land you're using may need to get hold of you but do make sure that the 'phone is set to silent mode with the vibrate feature on.

Choosing a Cat Bed

2008-02-12T01:59:00.000-08:00

You have a bed of your own, so why shouldn't your cat? It's true to say that if you buy a bed or even several beds for your cat, he will probably still use your three piece suite, your own bed or indeed anywhere he wants, but you'll feel better able to move him on if he has his own special place to sleep.

There are all sorts of cat beds, ranging from the very basic to the positively opulent. You can try to fit one in with your décor but frankly, unless your wallpaper has colourful mice or paw prints all over it, you are probably on a loser there! The best you can hope for really is a colour that doesn't actually clash with that of the room that the bed will be kept in. However, you should really be more concerned about how the bed will be for your cat.

Some of these cat beds are similar to dog beds but smaller, i.e. an oval foam filled cotton cover with a fairly rigid base and sides with a lowered part of the side for the cat to walk in (as if they couldn't jump over the sides anyway). These can be good as there is usually room for a bit of fleece or blanket inside, which is not only cozy for the cat, but keeps the cover of the bed a bit cleaner that it might otherwise be.

Another foam filled type of cat bed is similar to that described above but a little more like a traditional dog kennel in shape being completely covered over with a door shape for entry. Cats have a nesting instinct so some like this arrangement. Equally, if there are other animals or small children in the house, your cat may feel more secure with his own little "house" to retire to for peace and quiet. These beds can actually be heated but unless your cat is very old, this really shouldn't be necessary.

Most cats moult on and off throughout the year, so some sort of mat or blanket to put on their favourite chair can be useful. You can whip it off and hide it if visitors come and the furniture shouldn't be too hairy.

If your cat is a real heat junky, you can buy a sheepskin hammock type arrangement, which you can hang on a radiator. However, this won't be suitable for an old cat as agility is the key when getting in and out of these things.

Cats often like bean bags. This are an inner lining filled with small polystyrene balls with an outer cover that can be removed for washing. Placed in a corner or other warm spot, your cat will soon get to like this arrangement.

Unless you introduce your chosen cat bed into the house when your cat is very small, your cat will probably pay it no attention at all for some time. If he ignores it completely, try picking him up and putting him on the bed while you stroke him for a while. If this approach fails, try inducing him with catnip toys or treats. Make sure that the bed isn't in a thoroughfare and is somewhere away from draughts, maybe raised a short way off the floor.

If you have more than one cat, make sure that each one has its own bed. If they choose to swap around between themselves, then that's their business, but never expect them to share a bed, although they may want to, particularly sibling kittens.

If you want to make the cat bed multi-functional, buy one of those beds cum activity centres with a scratching post but be sure that you have plenty of room for it!

Pet Urns - Basic Information on Pet Cremation Urns

2008-02-11T03:25:00.002-08:00

Timothy is refusing to eat or drink since morning. He is inconsolable. Buster, his pet rabbit is not getting up and mom says that Buster is not well. At this tender age of eight, Timothy's family doesn't know how to tell him that Buster is dead.

Telling your child that their favorite pet is no more is never an easy task. Even more difficult is for the child to come to terms with this loss. Most of us have had pets when we were children. Pets form our world. We talk to them and play with them. Pets give us unconditional love and accept us just the way we are. Loss of a pet is often as painful as losing a family member.

Every pain or loss must be dealt with in the right way. Only then can one emerge stronger. Loss of life is the biggest pain that we must bear with. Research says that showing your beloved pet the love and respect that you have for it is one of the first steps in dealing with the loss. Just as we would go back to family photographs and keepsakes to remember the one who is gone forever, we can do the same for our pets too. Once you cremate your pet, you can keep their remains in an urn to hold on to their memory forever and show your appreciation.

Each pet is different in its unique way. They have their unique nuances, their characteristics and personality. Today you can choose a memorial urn that best suits your pets' personality and pay homage to its relationship with you. The best part is you get a wide variety of affordable urns available online and you can choose one from the comfort of your home.

Types of Urns:

Based on the type of pet you (a bird, a dog, a cat, etc.) had, you can choose figurine urns where a figure of the pet stands on top of the urn box. Such urns also come in the breed of your pet.

If you had a really playful pet that preferred outdoors, what best way to commemorate their memories than having a rock urn that can be kept outside in your lawn.

To add a personal touch to your pet's urn, you can have a photograph of your pet along with its name engraved on the urn. Photo urns come in various sizes and shapes. Generally made of solid hardwood, you would get them in the form of a box, tower, photo frame and even a dog house.

There are also various signature urns with paw prints, made of marble, in the shape of teddy bear and urn vases. Choose the one that shows you care.

Commonly a pet's remains will be handed over to you by your Veterinarian. So once you have chosen the urn that best suits your needs consider the following to decide on the size of the urn.

A pet urn size according to the industry standard is one cubic inch for every one pound of healthy weight. Check with the store from where you are buying the urn whether they have a return policy if the size of the urn does not meet your requirement.

The prices for pet urns vary based on their size and make. It may start from the USD 50 and can go up to USD 500.

German Shorthaired Pointer Puppy And Dog Information

2008-02-11T03:25:00.001-08:00

The German Shorthaired Pointer is a human family oriented and hunter dog. They need quite a bit of exercise and are just as willing to hunt as they are to play games in the yard. They can tend to roam and they are known as escape artists so a properly fenced in yard for exercise is ideal. Some say that a six foot or higher fence is necessary. They can tend to be noisy dogs. They may chase cats and other pets so early socialization is key. They like older children. As a reminder, never leave a child unsupervised with a puppy or dog.

Approximate Adult Size

The approximate adult size (two years old or older) of the German Shorthaired Pointer male is 23 to 25 inches to the withers (highest point of the shoulder) and 55 to 70 pounds. The female ranges from 21 to 23 inches to the withers and 45 to 60 pounds.

Special Health Considerations

Most dog breeds have certain inherited health problems associated with that specific breed and the German Shorthaired Pointer is no exception. Be on the look out for Canine Hip Dysplasia (genetic based looseness in the hip joint that can lead to arthritis pain and lameness), epilepsy (common in dogs), and Entropion, (hereditary disorder where eyelid, usually lower one, rolls inward and irritates the cornea and can cause visual problems. Surgery can correct this condition but may disqualify the dog from shows). This disease list is an informative guideline only. Other diseases may also be significant threats, please contact your veterinarian for a complete list.

She should visit the veterinarian several times in the first year for shots, boosters and check up. Then, as an adult, she should visit the veterinarian yearly for shots and check up. As she gets older, six years and on, she should visit the veterinarian twice a year for check ups and shots. Remember; avoid feeding your dog sweets.

Grooming

The German Shorthaired Pointer has a tough, short and thick coat. She should be brushed regularly. Brushing will help her maintain a clean and healthy coat and help you keep a closer eye on her health and strengthen your emotional bond with her. Her teeth should be brushed at least twice a week with toothpaste and toothbrush designed for dogs. Brushing removes the accumulation of plaque and tartar which can cause cavities (rarely) and periodontal disease. Dog periodontal disease can lead to pain, loss of teeth, bad breath and other serious disease.

Her toenails may need to be examined for growth and clipped regularly. The toenails of the rear feet grow slower than the toenails of the front feet. Generally a guillotine type trimmer is the best for this chore and competent instructions to accomplish this can be found on the net.

Her ears should be checked once a week and be kept clean. If you have her professionally groomed, make sure ear cleaning and inspection is part of the package. No water or excess fluid should get in the dogs ears, and do not try to irrigate the ears. Ear cleaning is too complicated and critical to instruct here. Look for hair growing in the ear canal, excess wax, or moisture. If her ears have a discharge, foul odor or she seems to be in distress and you suspect an infection, or tumor, consult your veterinarian.

Life Span

The German Shorthaired Pointer can live between 14 and 16 years with proper nutrition, medical care and excellent living conditions.

History

The German Shorthaired Pointer comes from Germany where they were bred as hunting dogs. They may be a cross between the Bloodhound, Old Spanish Pointer, Hounds of St. Hubert and the German Pointer. They came to the United States in 1925. They were first registered by the American Kennel Association in 1930.

Some Registries

* German Shorthaired Pointer Club of America, Inc.
* UKC United Kennel Club
* NKC National Kennel Club
* CKC Continental Kennel Club
* APRI Americas Pet Registry Inc.
* AKC American Kennel Club
* FCI Federation Cynologique Internationale
* NZKC New Zealand Kennel Club
* KCGB Kennel Club of Great Britain
* ANKC Australian National Kennel Club
* ACR American Canine Registry

Litter Size

7 to 8 German Shorthaired Pointer puppies

Category

Sporting Group, Gundog

Terms To Describe

Agile, power, endurance, intelligent, friendly, willing to please, sensible.

SPECIAL GOOD POINTS

* Very fast learner.
* Good watch dog.
* Good swimmers, webbed feet.
* Even personality.
* Very intelligent.
* They are very healthy.
* They generally like kids.

SPECIAL BAD POINTS

* They need obedience training.
* Medium guard dog ability.
* May be a one person dog.
* Can be noisy.
* They may roam.

Other Names Known By

Deutscher Kurzhaariger Vorstehhund

Every dog is an individual so not everything in this information may be correct for your dog. This information is meant as a good faith guideline only.

Let's Hear It For Real Pet Food!

2008-02-08T02:14:00.001-08:00

Bring back real pet food? What do I mean?

Well, if you are a regular visitor to your local pet store you cannot help to notice that there are any number of pet foods out there for every ailment, breed, lifestage or level of activity - but of late there have been many products appearing which mimic human food and the way that is going - added this, added that, reduced this, reduced that. If you have just bought a bag of pet food because the bag or label shouted out at you that this food contained added spirulina, glucosamine, chondroitin ,Omega-3 and Omega-6, prebiotics, probiotics, Cranberry Powder, Dried Kelp, Dried Bacillus Licheniformis Fermentation Extract, Dried Bacillus Subtilis Fermentation Extract, CPA Complex™, Mannan-oligo-saccharides, Green Tea, selenium yeast, eye of toad and tongue of newt (I made the last two up!) or anything else that doesn't sound like 'food' then you need to read on, because you are in danger of falling into a great marketing trap!

Well, firstly lets look at the arguement purely from a human perspective, and here I would urge you to get hold of (or get your library to stock) a copy of 'In Defence of Food: The Myth of Nutrition and the Pleasures of Eating

by Michael Pollan, a respected US author and journalist

In the book, Pollan argues strongly for a more sensible approach to nutrition than that being imposed upon us by government, nutritionists and the food industry. Why? Pollan says

'Because most of what we're consuming today is not food, and how we're consuming it -- in the car, in front of the TV, and increasingly alone -- is not really eating. Instead of food, we're consuming "edible foodlike substances" -- no longer the products of nature but of food science. Many of them come packaged with health claims that should be our first clue they are anything but healthy. In the so-called Western diet, food has been replaced by nutrients, and common sense by confusion.'

The result is what Michael Pollan calls the American paradox: The more we worry about nutrition, the less healthy we seem to become.

But if real food -- the sort of food our great grandmothers would recognize as food -- stands in need of defense, from whom does it need defending? From the food industry on one side and nutritional science on the other. Both stand to gain much from widespread confusion about what to eat, a question that for most of human history people have been able to answer without expert help. Yet the professionalization of eating has failed to make Americans healthier. Thirty years of official nutritional advice has only made us sicker and fatter while ruining countless numbers of meals.

So what's happening with pet food?

OK, now let's look at what's been happening on the pet scene in the last few years. Quite honestly, what the pet food industry has been doing is mirroring the human food industry. As health food magazines promote the latest nutrichemical fad and foods become low fat, low salt, low fibre, low taste and low everything else, what has increased has been the ingredient label, as whole foods have been replaced by nutrichemicals. Look at current pet food labels. As an example, and just an example (I'm not saying this is wrong, just typical of this whole marketing thing) look at the ingredients in a bag of Nutro Holistic Food (Holistic, in my definition means 'natural')

Dried Chicken Meat, Whole Brown Rice, Ground Rice, Dried Lamb Meat, Sunflower Oil (min. 4.5%), Poultry Fat (min. 4%), Dried Salmon Meat, Flaxseed, Oatmeal, Dried Alfalfa, Dried Beet Pulp, Dried Tomato, Cranberry Powder, Menhaden Fish Oil (min. 0.5%), Potassium Chloride, Dried Kelp,

Dried Tomato? Cranberry Powder? Flaxseed?Dried Bacillus Licheniformis fermentation Extract? Dried Bacillus Subtilis Fermentation Extract? These are not traditional pet food ingredients. The question has to be asked... Are they actually necessary if the food is good enough quality to offer complete nutrition without them?

Royal Canin now have a bewildering range of foods for lifestages and breeds, indoor and outdoor cats as well as a range of foods for health problems. Are these necessary or just marketing managers pandering to our perceived needs - if scientists tell me I need Omega 3 in my diet I must feed the cat some as well?! What about the cat I grew up with as a child who lived to a ripe old age with no particular health problems. That was achieved on a simple food without all this added chemistry set! What about my Father-in-law's farm dogs, brought up on table scraps, washings out from the dairy and a handfull of fish meal - they worked hard, looked fit and never needed a single visit to the vet.

Breed specific diets? If they are no more expensive than your normal food then fine, but please ask the question otherwise - Is this more marketing hype than necessity?

As to lifestage foods, well there is certainly some sense in this, but maybe not quite as much as some manufacturers would like us to believe. Puppies need a higher level of some nutrients than adults, as do very working active dogs, pregnant and lactating bitches, but not so crucial maybe are the so-called senior recipes. As you and I get older we adjust our diet by eating less as our level of activity goes down. The same should be true for our pets - as they get older they need less to eat so we need to adjust the amount we feed. This can be done by either reducing quantity or changing to a lighter diet, lower in protein and fat - there are several adult light diets that fit the bill.

Let's hear it for a sensible approach to the nutrition of our pets. Three cheers to companies like Burns Pet Nutrition who refuse to go down the route of adding novel chemicals and nutrichemicals to their food just for the sake of it. I want to feed my pets food not chemicals. If the ingredients are not good enough and complete by themselves then why not get that right first before supplementing the diet with unnecessary things.

Remember margarine - it was the healthiest thing since sliced bread, until all of a sudden it wasn't - who's to say Omega 3 won't be next!

Pet Vitamins - Three Important Questions

2008-02-08T02:12:00.000-08:00

A dozen generations ago when pet vitamins were unheard of, this good earth was a veritable victory garden. The air was clean, water pure, soil rich with nutrients.

Today the world is different.

Corporate farms coax crops from barren soil using chemicals and pesticides. Food processing conglomerates replace any remaining nourishment with salt, sugar, artificial flavors and preservatives. Humans and animals subsist on a diet of lifeless inert matter in brightly adorned packaging that we call food only because we're brainwashed into eating it... and feeding it to our pets.

But you are to be congratulated. Here you are on the Internet searching for answers. Odds are, if your dog or cat had known how to search the Internet for pet vitamins and supplements, he or she would have done so long ago.

Nobody questions that humans, animals, fish, birds, plants - all living things - need proper nutrition to grow and stay healthy. The big question is which product to put your hard-earned money on. And whose claims to believe.

Here are the three most important questions to ask when searching for natural pet vitamins. We thought you should know the inside scoop because the decisions you make for your best friends are too important for guesswork.

First, how long have the people behind the pet vitamin formula been around?

Many newcomers to the pet supplement arena have not stood the test of time. Many hope to sell their products to inexperienced dog and cat owners who don't know better. A track record of 5 to 10 years is good; 20 or more even better. For over 34 years the makers of my favorite brand have developed products that provide the best form, balance and potency possible.

Second, why should I believe the claims made by pet vitamin and mineral supplement makers?

Some vitamins for pets contain ingredients that are of no value or cannot be assimilated by the animal's system. Some formulations are not laboratory tested to dissolve before being eliminated from the animal's system.

Look for formulations that optimally produce both preventative and therapeutic results. Make sure active components are combined, as they are in nature, for optimal effectiveness. Check to see that after development, all formulations are evaluated and appraised by veterinarians. Buy only formulations with ingredients that are guaranteed to conform to the highest standard of quality, purity, and potency for maximum utilization by the animal's body. Finally, choose only products that have passed sophisticated laboratory testing before the product is approved for your purchase.

Third, will they stand behind their products with a money-back guarantee?

The correct answer must be a resounding Yes! Skip over any formulation that is not guaranteed to meet your complete satisfaction or your money back! The makers of the highest quality pet vitamins must have enough confidence in their product to offer a money-back guarantee with no hassle, no questions asked. If you're not happy, how can any ethical pet healthcare supplier be happy?

Allergies in Cats and Dogs

2008-02-07T01:41:00.000-08:00

Due to walking on all fours, pets are closer to the ground than humans. They sniff more than humans. Dust and pollen can stick to their coats more easily than to the slick skin of humans. Consequently, pets tend to suffer from allergies from dust, mites, spores, pollen and molds. The symptom can be sneezing, but the most common and severe reaction is skin irritation. The difference between human allergies and pet allergies? Humans outgrow them, pets just get worse.

Look for these signs:

Pawlicking

Chest, abdomen, and armpit scratching

Rubbing face and ears

Runny eyes

Sneezing, coughing, wheezing (mostly in cats).

Before going to the veterinarian, consider the answers to questions he or she is likely to ask: What are the skin problems like? What food does the pet eat? What medicine allergies does it have? Is the problem seasonal? Does it lick the tops of its paws? Does the pet lick the bottoms of its paws or itch all over?

The most dangerous allergic reaction is anaphylactic - to penicillin, incompatible blood transfusions, or insect bites. Anaphylactic reactions can kill by causing cardiovascular breakdown, respiratory failure, and shock. Make sure your vet knows about any reactions to drugs or blood transfusions.

Dogs and cats, like humans, get hives from food or medication. With hives, the tissues around the head swell and other body parts may show round, red places. Signs: the pet itches and rubs its head on the ground to scratch. Give the pet a bath in mild soap and take it to the vet for treatment.

One of the most common allergic reactions is flea allergy dermatitis, which in a sensitive animal can be caused by only one or two fleabites. The most sensitive parts of the body are the base of the tail, the hindquarters, and the lower abdomen. An animal who is severely affected may lose a good deal of hair and be covered with sores. Solutions are control of fleas and allergic treatment. Animals, as well as humans, can suffer from other insect bites. Treat with cold packs and antihistamines. See your veterinarian.

Food allergies can bring about itching, vomiting, diarrhea, and gas. Cats can develop asthma (another allergic reaction) with coughing, wheezing and sneezing. Solutions: feeding of hypoallergenic foods, bronchodilators and corticosteroids.

Contact allergy, most commonly caused by flea collars, makes the skin red and causes sores, infection, hair loss. Take off the causative agent. Bathe your pet with mild soap. Feline acne (pimples under the cat's chin) is contact allergy caused by plastic food and water bowls. Water and feed pets from glass or stainless steel dishes.

Though animals can be desensitized, the treatment is expensive, time-consuming, and often disappointing. The most common treatments are antihistamines, cortisone, and anti-inflammatory drugs. The substance that causes the allergy should be eliminated.

How My Dog Taz Became The Houdini Of Dogs - The World's Greatest Escape Artist

2008-02-07T01:38:00.000-08:00

The first dog I ever owned was Taz, a shorthaired, dingo-like medium male mutt with a handsome face and intelligent eyes. I had been married ten years, and had an eight-year-old daughter. We bought our first house in the San Fernando Valley area of Los Angeles , a ranch-style 3 bedroom with a big yard.

At our housewarming party, as is customary in friendly circles, someone gave us a six month old pup saved from the pound. Taz.

Taz had no obvious bad habits. No biting, peeing or pooping in the house. He chewed a couple sofas, that was it. However, Taz always was a bit leery of our family. My wife Cindi is outgoing, always on-the-run show biz exec, never much of a pet person. A dog was just another item any decent house must have, much like a nice china buffet or a wide-screen TV. It's not that she was mean to him, they just didn't connect. I think dog food grossed my wife out, so I was the one who fed him. You can imagine who picked up poop. I loved to scratch Taz's ears and he was affectionate towards me. But, if such a thing was possible, Taz seemed a bit bored by my company. Like he was really way too smart and he had to suffer this fool because I was human and had a house and fed him and walked him. I just thought I was incredibly insecure, imagining things about my dog that could not be true. My 8-year old daughter Chloe was into her own world of reading and imagination. She loved Taz a lot, but her promise to walk the dog every day soon got old as Taz would pull on the leash so hard that she would either have to let go or get dragged along the ground.

So the chore of feeding, walking and training Taz fell to me. I guess I made every mistake in the book. On my daily walks with Taz he pulled the leash. I let him pull, in fact, I would take him to one of my favorite hiking trails nearby -- one that was mostly uphill for the first mile, and let Taz drag me like a one-dog mush team to the top. I was lazy, Taz was exhausted, but triumphant. He was the leader of the pack and I was the alpha dog. Beta really. I think this was the problem. I never established myself as the leader of the pack. I was just this competing male Taz wanted to get away from.

What I should have done first of all was train him to sit quietly and patiently in the house while I attached the leash. If he pulled, I should have just sat down and waited until he calmed down and stopped. Then, instead of heading toward the door, I should have walked him with a loose leash around the house. Finally, we should have practiced sitting at the door, leash loose, until I gave the command to walk out. But I was too ignorant and busy to train him properly, I take all the blame!

Luckily, Taz came to us already house trained, so this was never the problem. In fact he loved the yard a lot, exploring every corner. I was relieved at first, proud that I had a yard large enough for him to explore and stretch his legs. In fact, everything was hunky-dory until one day I spotted Taz through the living room window sprinting away down the street. A whole year of prison-breaks had begun.

I would usually jump into my car and give chase. Taz would spot me and deftly bolt through traffic and into adjoining neighborhoods. Usually I would lose him around a corner. A few hours later, however, I would inevitably get a phone call. We had luckily always had a dog tag with our phone number around his neck. Every person would describe a scratching at the door, and Taz would invite himself in and make himself at home.

I went about sealing every possible escape route from my yard. I then had Taz neutered, which someone said was the possible reason for his wanderlust the smell of females. Despite all this Taz would escape again and again, and within hours I would receive the customary phone call. Everyone loved Taz, and I got to know a lot of people in a one-mile radius from my house. Taz seemed to gravitate to one neighbor in particular who lived at the end of a cul-de-sac by the freeway. The middle-aged husband and wife had three other dogs. The husband was this surly unshaven kind of guy with a big potbelly who wore ill-fitting white t-shirts. The wife was friendly enough, understood, but I could tell the lumpy husband was none too pleased by Taz's frequent visits.

Finally one day, I glanced into the backyard and witnessed Taz deftly climbing a 6-foot tall wall covered with ivy and jumping over the fence. I could not believe my eyes. The dog was part monkey. Someone suggested an electric fence but I balked. I was not running a damn prison. I didn't want to leave him tied up all day. I didn't know what to do but keep Taz in the house.

However, soon even that strategy failed. Taz would slyly wait until one of us would open the door and bolt out at full clip, headed for freedom, like Steve McQueen on a motorcycle escaping the POW camp. Soon we would open the door just wide enough for us to slide through and close it quickly when entering and leaving the house. We felt like snakes.

This seemed to work for a while until one midnight the burglar alarm went off.

We were terrified. The backyard French doors were open. I was about to dial 911 when I noticed Taz climbing the rear fence faster than doggedly possible. I suddenly realized Taz had opened the door himself and escaped. I installed dead bolts in the doors, and all was well for a few weeks until a house guest who was a chain smoker stayed with us. As you might guess, at two a.m. he went out back for a smoke -- another escape opportunity for Taz. I was awakened at 3:00 am by a phone call: the cul-de-sac freeway neighbors were calling. The more friendly wife said Taz had scratched at their door, woke them up, come in, snuggled in bed with them and fallen fast asleep. I could come by in the morning to pick him up The next morning I sheepishly arrive in my car and opened the hatch. The lumpy t-shirt guy came out arms folded and promptly began loudly berating me: "You're a child! You're a child! You can't control your own dog. What's wrong with you? Have you thought about what is wrong with YOU?"

I begged for mercy, and finally was saved by the wife who brought Taz out. I stuffed Taz in back and vowed to never have this happen again. It just so happened that we were going camping the following weekend, and a good friend of my wife who was an actress and dog trainer on the side vowed to cure Taz of his bad habits. She moved in for a few days with her own little black terrier, and soon I was bedazzled by the site of Taz dutifully following orders, sitting, following, stopping (no fetching, the actress thought that too demeaning). Taz stopped running away. I was amazed. She vowed by the time we returned from our camping trip we would have a brand new Taz It was on our way home that we got a call that Taz had escaped once again. This time he was at the dog pound. I walked down the long, depressing row of cages and found Taz, looking awfully glad to see me.

The actress had helped; Taz was better for a few weeks, until one day he slipped out the door when I was taking out the trash and sprinted toward the dreaded cul-de-sac. This time I didn't even bother to follow. Shortly afterward I got a phone call from the cul-de-sac wife. Look, said the woman with all the kindness she could muster, we really love Taz. He sleeps with us in our bed. He gets along great with our other three dogs, and our roommate, a single woman, wants to walk him everyday. What do you say you let us adopt him, no questions asked?

I talked it over with Cindi and Chloe, and at first their natural possessiveness kicked in, as did mine. But I argued, maybe Taz liked it better at the cul-de-sac. Maybe we never were the right family for Taz. We all felt very sad, but finally we all agreed.

In fact I would often see Taz walking with the single woman, looking content. Every now and then I'd see them on that steep hiking trail (not pulling the leash) and Taz would lick me in recognition. As the years went by I saw him less and less, and even once on the trail Taz did not seem to remember me. If this seems like a bittersweet ending, it is. I wish I had known what I know now about dog training. But ultimately, Taz was happier with that family,

and although I alone take the blame, I also am grateful to have known Taz -- and the lessons he taught me about myself.

How Sensible Is Cooking Your Own Dog Or Cat Food?

2008-02-06T01:04:00.000-08:00

Hummingbirds - Beautiful and Active

2008-02-05T02:47:00.000-08:00

Hummingbirds are one of the most beautiful and active species of birds to watch; their colour and the way they dart around are so entrancing to the keen bird watcher.

There are over three hundred species of hummingbirds, native to the Americas and parts of the Caribbean. They are particularly renowned for their mid air hovering ability, sustained by the rapid flapping of their wings, between fifteen and eighty times per second, the humming sound of which gives them their name. They are the only species of bird which can also fly backwards as well as vertically, somewhat like a vertical take off and landing aircraft. Interestingly, their feet are not useful for walking, just perching so if they want to travel, they must fly.

There are seventeen species of hummingbirds which live in the USA, mostly in the warmer parts such as Texas, California and Arizona, although some can be found in the east and others in the Rocky Mountains. Most migrate to the warmer climes of Central and South America in winter but their route and destination is very much dependent on species.

Other than their extraordinary flying characteristics, the appearance of the hummingbird is what makes it so attractive. The iridescent sheen of the feathers and gorgeous colouring of blue, green, pink, purple and almost anything in between are quite irresistible to the bird watcher.

If you have a garden in a hummingbird area, you will know that they love brightly coloured flowers. These vary from area to area but Salvia, Buddleia, Nicotiana and Callistemon (Bottle Brush) are universally popular. Hummingbirds have long curved beaks, designed to suck nectar from plants with bell shaped flowers. While feeding, they will hover in mid air which is quite a spectacle and they need to feed approximately every ten minutes. They also eat small insects and pollen for protein so if you can avoid using insecticides in your garden, it would be much better for the hummers. If you want to provide food for your garden hummingbird population, there are plenty of feeders on the market from which to dispense nectar. Try to choose one which has a moat to prevent ants getting to the nectar.

Some people see orange and brown or zebra striped flying creatures in their gardens which hover and act just like hummingbirds. Don't be deceived - these are probably hawk moths.

Hummingbirds court visually. The male may raise his feathers edging the gorget and shake his head from side to side, all the while, making shrill noises. He also does dive displays, accompanied by various sounds made vocally or by the wing feathers. Alternatively, the male may perform a shuttle dance involving flying back and forth very quickly in arc shapes only about ten inches wide and sometimes right in front of the face of the female.

In some species, the males all group together and sing to attract nearby females into their territory. The males and females have separate territories, the females for nesting and the males usually to protect a source of food.

All in all the hummingbird is not only beautiful and active but fascinating to watch in terms of other behaviour.

Safe Traveling For Your Dog, Cat or Bird

2008-02-05T02:45:00.000-08:00

I'm Allergic To My Cat!

2008-02-04T00:31:00.000-08:00

Having a cat allergy came as something of a surprise to me. Growing up, I had many pets - cats, dogs and birds. My family were animal lovers and pets abounded, so being in contact with animals was a daily occurance. No one ever seemed to suffer from a cat allergy or any kind of animal allergy for that matter.

After my teens and my last pet had died, I wasn't in a position to take on another pet for many years. Then, eleven years ago, a friend of a cousin was looking for a home for their last remaining kitten. And so it was that Kira came into my life. This was a cat with attitude (and still is!) and we bonded pretty much immediately. While she was still a kitten, I'd put her in the kitchen overnight with a little cat bed to sleep in and the litter box close by.

As she grew older, I started letting her sleep in the bedroom. It's surprising how relaxing a cat's purring can be in wee small hours.

A little over a year later, when down with the vet getting some supplies, I heard that there was a kitten that needed a home or it would have to be put to sleep. And so, Fritz came home with me that day.

Unfortuately, Kira was less than impressed with this interloper and I had to keep the two separated for several days before an uneasy truce ensued.

They're an odd pair - Kira has attitude, Fritz is much more companionable; what you'd call a "gentle soul". She's still the Queen around the house and occasionally puts Fritz in his place with a right-hook to the face when she feels the need to assert her authority.

As Fritz matured, he also was allowed into the bedroom. Both he and Kira would sleep there during the day and night, as was their want.

We all know that cats are the greatest creature-comfort-seeking animals on the planet and a comfy place to catnap is one of their major concerns. But the place your cat chooses to snooze may not be your first choice. While I didn't mind the cats sleeping on the bed, I did take exception to Fritz's tendency to charge in from the garden and sleep in a basket of warm, freshly dried laundry straight from the dryer.

The Cornell University College of Veterinary Medicine recently conducted a poll of pet-owners on the sleeping habits of their pets and found that 60% of them sleep in bed with one of the family. Where cats are concerned, there are two potential problems here: one is that, somehow, they manage to take up 90% of the bed and the other has to do with allergies.

I found I had a mild cat allergy when I started producing weird wheezing noises any time I was doing something strenuous. Coughing eased it for a few minutes but it would always return. I figured I’d developed a mild form of asthma, probably due to bad air quality and pollution, so I went to the doctor to have it checked out. After listening to my lungs he asked me one question: "Do you have a cat?"

Well, yes, I did. Two in fact.

"You’re allergic to your cats", he intoned.

Then he asked if the cats slept in the bedroom. Of course they did.

"There’s your real problem", he said. "What you’re allergic to is the dander produced by your cats. When a cat sleeps on your bed, the dander ends up in the sheets and the duvet and you breathe it in deeply at night when you’re asleep. Not good. That’s what causes your wheeziness. Stop the cats sleeping in your bedroom for two or three weeks and see if that eases your symptoms. If not, you’ll probably need to use an inhaler for the rest of your life."

Ok, that last sentence kinda hit me between the eyes. Much as I love my two furballs, I didn’t want to suffer a long-lasting health problem that could possibly be avoided.

So why is dander such a problem? It's the layer of dead skin that's rich in animal protein, which is continuously shed by animals. Sebaceous (oil producing) glands in the skin also produce these protein allergens. Male cats have, on average, greater amounts of sebaceous secretions and therefore are more allergenic than female or neutered male cats. This is a result of testosterone hormone effects on sebaceous glands.

So, with that information and the prospect of an enduring health problem, I banned my cats from the bedroom, threw out the duvet (on the advice of the doctor), bought a new one and changed everything on the bed (including getting new pillows). I didn’t get too much sleep the first few nights with the cats meowing and scratching on the door to get in but they got used to the idea, finally. After three weeks in a cat free bedroom, my wheeziness had all but disappeared. The cats haven’t been allowed back in since.

Should you find yourself with a similar cat allergy problem, banning the cat from your bedroom is one possible course of action. Alternatively, you can get your cat his own cat bed and put that somewhere out of harm's way (yours and the cat's).

Since finding out I was mildly allergic to my cats, I've spoken to other cat owners about it and quite a number also suffer some mild form of allergic reaction - sneezing, wheezing, watering eyes, blocked sinuses and so on. Owners appear to become at least somewhat immune to their own cats insofar as the symptoms are not as pronounced as they become when they're around other people's cats.

But, having said that, none of us would ever part with our feline companions and would exhort others to adopt a cat as a pet, as the benefits far outweigh any minor inconveniences.

Animal dander allergy can significantly contribute to respiratory problems involving the sinuses, nasal passages, and eyes, as well as causing upper respiratory tract problems that can result in asthma . These problems can significantly diminish your quality of life despite various medical treatments. For some people, it can be even more serious, leading to recurrent acute asthmatic attacks that can be life threatening, requiring emergency room visits and hospitalizations. The good news is that most people who are allergic to their pets can keep their symptoms under control if they know the facts.

Seven People-Foods You Should Not Feed To Your Cat Or Dog

2008-02-04T00:29:00.000-08:00

Growing up in a small farm town had a lot of advantages, not the least of which was a freedom and sense of complete control over one's own contentment and pursuits of happiness.

We had a lot of pets. We had cats, dogs, a white rat, turtles, frogs, and anything else we found or that came to us as hungry strays. Back then, we didn't think too much about what our pets ate. We very often gave our pets "people-foods"; scraps from family meals, treats, etc.

The local farmers always had a bunch of hungry cats and dogs running around their property, feeding on cows' milk, mice, birds, table scraps, and any other bit of fodder they could find (or that someone nonchalantly and innocently tossed their way).

What we did not realize is that we were giving our pets foods which are hazardous for them. For some reason, we believed that if we could eat it so could they. Looking back, that way of thinking, that mentality seems rather ignorant; indeed, even blind to so many things.

Funny, though, because we rarely took any of our pets to veterinarians back then either. Hmmmmm...perhaps they (the pets) knew how to heal themselves from all the junk we gave them. Maybe they knew enough natural remedies (i.e., herbs, berries, fruits, weeds, and other 'anti-toxins') to counteract our poisons.

There was not a lot of information-sharing back then either. Certainly nowhere near as it is today, and things we learned came much slower then, for sure! I guess life was just a whole lot slower and simpler then.

How many adorable pictures have we seen of tiny kittens being fed pure cow's milk, directly from the cow? Now, we are told many cats are lactose intolerant and cannot metabolize the milk properly, so we should not give that to them.

Who knew?

Here are seven "people foods" that should not be given to your cat or dog, as they have been found to be either directly or indirectly "toxic" to them:

Avocado --

Avocados contain persin, which is a derivative of fatty acids. Persin is toxic to cats and dogs, as well as other animals, and especially birds.

Chocolate --

Chocolate is considered to be poisonous to cats and dogs. It contains theobromine, an alkaloid, which can give pets theobromine poisoning, which can lead to death if not treated early.

Cows' milk --

Cows' milk is not considered toxic to cats, but some cats are lactose intolerant, thus milk may give them diarrhea or other digestive symptoms.

Foods containing Xylitol --

ASPCA Animal Poison Control Center warns dog owners that products sweetened with Xylitol are harmful to dogs. Xylitol is a naturally occurring sweetener extracted from fibers of fruits and vegetables and is used in a wide variety of desserts, snacks, candies, gums, and the like. Xylitol can cause a rapid and severe blood-sugar drop in dogs, which can lead to seizures, vomiting and weakness. Immediate veterinary attention is required.

Grapes, raisins --

Grapes and raisins should be avoided as pet snacks, as they have been linked with kidney failure, especially in dogs.

Onion, garlic, leek, chive --

Onions contain a substance called N-propyl disulphide, which can destroy red blood cells in cats, causing a type of anemia called Heinz body anemia. Garlic, leeks and chives contain similar substances, although in lesser amounts.

The Truth About Squeeze Videos

2008-02-02T01:30:00.001-08:00

It's been a hell of a few months for affiliate marketing product launches with some really excellent products and services appearing on the scene as well as some really bad ones and downright rip-offs. Just as I thought things were cooling down, along comes another product. No, it's not another ebook, it's videos. Squeeze Videos to be exact. A waste of money or a worthwhile addition to the affiliate marketing arsenal?

Now we're all pretty familiar with online video these days what with YouTube and Google Video. But let's face it, if you want to advertise your product or affiliate links with video, you want something a little more professional than the shaky, blurry and downright amateurish home-produced videos you get on YouTube.

Yeah, they're good for a laugh but we don't expect Hollywood production values from them. So, I'm guessing that the savvy marketer won't put up something that looks like a cheap ransom video - you know: "buy my product or the cat gets it!"

Videos are all the rage at the moment and Camtasia's Screencastproduct is great for creating videos that show off a product's features and benefits (you can get a free 30-day trial). And 99% of the screencast videos you'll see are demonstrations taking you through the product on offer as though you were looking over the commenatator's shoulder as he points out things on the screen.

But again, these are not professionally produced videos (in the main). Their authors/creators have, in most cases, done a very good job of demonstrating their products or the products they're promoting.

But how would the idea of professionally produced TV-Studio-Quality videos strike you? Videos that you can use on your own website. Videos that would cost you $10,000-$30,000 otherwise. That's what Squeeze Videos are about.

That certainly grabbed my attention when I became aware of them. The Squeeze Videos can help you to:

Build your list at lightning speed
Skyrocket your affiliate commissions
Make money completely on "Cruise Control"

I video-enabled two of my pages today (one for sign-ups to my newsletter and the other a sales page) beacuse I was so jazzed about the possibilities and I wanted to test out just how effective the videos are. I've had my share of disappointments in the past with products not delivering on their promises.

But, this is one of the success stories. Sales from the video-enabled sales page have virtually doubled and there's been about a 50% increase in subscribers. So it's another great product in the list of outstanding affiliate marketing products that have been released this year.

How to Get That Ultimate Sky Diving Adventure on Your First Jump

2008-02-02T01:28:00.000-08:00

If you feel as though you do not have the time or the patience to go through some lengthy sessions in order to learn the basics of skydiving, well then you should know that there is still a way for you to get that ultimate sky diving adventure without really sweating it out.

There are many sky diving centers all over the country that are now offering tandem sky diving for beginners, and the good news about tandem sky diving is that you can feel secured because somebody is holding on to your during the jump and making sure that you do not get into trouble with opening your parachute, for example.

The Advantages of Tandem Jumping

There are many advantages that you can get when you enroll in one of those tandem jumping programs. First, with minimum instructions, you can be ready for a sky diving adventure, and unlike in the lone jumping program where you will need to learn everything to prevent any untoward incidents during your jumps, the tandem jumping program will pair you off with a skydiving master who will help you execute the moves without much trouble at all.

All you really need in order to be able to experience the ultimate sky diving adventure in a tandem jump is to hang on to the skydive master and enjoy yourself.

The second advantage in enrolling in the tandem jumping program is that you can experience the first minute of exhilarating freefall without really worrying about your parachute, as the sky diving master who is with you will take care of that so you can just enjoy the fall. When you hit the right altitude, the skydiving master will open the parachute and the two of you will now be gliding in the air for the next couple of minutes.

Gliding in the air with your skydiving master is really a great sky diving adventure, and if you choose your sky diving location well, you could be treated with such breath taking sceneries below.

How Much Could a Sky Diving Adventure Cost you?

The cost of a sky diving adventure could vary depending on the sky diving center, for example if you go for the complete sky diving course, you can spend around $1,000 to $1,400. However, if you go only for those one time jumps and those tandem jumps, which do not really need some lengthy instructions and preparations, the cost could be a lot lower. In some sky diving centers, you can already go tandem sky diving for just as little as $150 to $300.

History of Domestic Pets

2008-02-01T02:14:00.002-08:00

Bird Feeders - What Type Of Bird Feeder Should I Use?

2008-02-01T02:14:00.001-08:00

History of Domestic Pets

2008-01-31T03:18:00.000-08:00

German Shorthaired Pointer Puppy And Dog Information

2008-01-31T03:17:00.000-08:00

Pet Urns - Basic Information on Pet Cremation Urns

2008-01-30T00:44:00.000-08:00

Is Pet Insurance Worth It?

2008-01-30T00:43:00.000-08:00

Believe it or not-but pet insurance is the most claimed-for type of insurance, more so than homeowners or auto insurance. Even so, the whole idea is pretty new to American pet owners. Less than 1 percent of 163 million cats and dogs in the United States are covered by a health insurance policy. In the United Kingdom and other European countries, 20-50 percent of the pet population has coverage.

Consumer Reports Isn't Always Right

Many pet owners wonder if investing in pet insurance is "worth it." An as alternative, some people advise to simply open a separate savings account for your pet's medical expenses. That way, if you don't end up needing the money for expensive vet bills you could spend it on something else-like a vacation to Hawaii.

For example, an article published in 2003 by Consumer Reports says, "The most important thing you need to know about pet insurance is that it is a form of enforced savings that almost never covers the entire bill. You can accomplish the same thing by paying the same monthly premium to your savings account."

I have to disagree that it can accomplish, "the same thing."

Yes, the purpose of any insurance is to cover future unknown risks. But you'll never know which is the better option until after the fact.

Although saving money is always a good idea, how long will it take you to save $3000, $5000, $7000? What if you're faced with a medical emergency and you don't have enough money saved up yet? I can guarantee that your pet isn't going to wait to get sick or injured!

$5000-$7000 is NOT an over-exaggeration of the kind of expenses you might encounter if your pet needs to visit a veterinary specialist or develops a chronic medical condition like diabetes, seizures, or thyroid disease.

Just Punch the Numbers

If you saved $50 a month it would take a little less than 10 years to save $7000 depending on the interest rate for your savings account. Depending on the pet insurance policy you choose, from the first day your policy is effective and for the same $50 a month you could receive $7,000-$14,000 per incident or even $100,000 for multiple lifetime incidents.

Even if by some miracle you have an extra $7,000 laying around to immediately fund your pet's savings account, your savings will be dwindled down to near zero once your pet experiences one serious medical incident. Then what?

Avoid Benefit Schedules

There are many factors to consider when evaluating the different types of pet insurance policies available. But one of the most important is whether or not the company uses a benefit schedule to reimburse claims. What this means is, regardless of the total cost of treatment, the policy will only pay up to a set figure (not a percentage) per condition.

You're much better off looking for a policy that covers a certain percentage of the claim (usually 80% or higher) based on the actual cost of the procedure and where you live. This takes into account the higher fees you're more likely to encounter at an emergency or specialty clinic and you never have to worry about inflation.

Many pet parents have discovered (to their disappointment) that the benefit schedules currently being offered by pet insurance companies have not been adjusted to take into account the recent inflation associated with veterinary expenses.

The fact is, your pet will likely require costly medical care at some point in its life. What would you do if your pet needed sudden medical attention, such as a trip to the emergency clinic, or was diagnosed with a chronic condition such as diabetes?

Both of these could easily cost $2500 or more. Would this cost cause you financial hardship? If you answered yes, then pet insurance would probably be worth it to you.

Some people believe that pet insurance is just another way for insurance companies to get rich. However, any kind of insurance is something that you have--but hope you never need to use. You just never know when you're going to need it. I've seen pet insurance save the lives of pets who otherwise would have been euthanized because of expensive medical bills.

Is Your Cat an Internet Marketing Genius?

2008-01-29T01:58:00.001-08:00

Cats understand something about marketing that have made them very successful. It's called the Law of Attraction and it is a fundamental principal to all successful marketing strategies.

Consider that there are roughly 65 million people, in the US alone, that have cats in their home and worldwide the number could only be estimated. From an internet marketing perspective it would be fair to say that cats have achieved a dominate position in their specific niche market. Who else except a marketing genius could create for themselves such a strong position in a market segment filled with competitors like dogs, birds, fish even hamsters?

Not only are they a favorite pet, but many cats have, what some might say is the equivalent of the so called "internet marketers easy life", sleeping eating, stretching, preening. Long ago cats pretty much perfected how to run things on "autopilot" by leaving the sorted details of making a living to silly humans. After all why work when people bring you food and make a fuss over you just for being cute and cuddly - not unlike some Gurus.

So, you might ask, how did a naturally solitary nocturnal hunter like "the cat" become such a, treasured, pampered, house pet? It's the perfect illustration of the basic principals of Internet Marketing and "Law of Attraction" at work: all marketers should take careful note.

In the wild cats have no need or desire to be with people. As a species they are well adapted and more than self sufficient. However, when people first settled in villages and took up farming they also began to harvest and store crops, specifically grain. Lots of grain attracted lots of rats, which in turn, naturally attracted lots of cats. Cats simply provided a valuable service and, in doing so, created a unique niche; a wonderful simple and perfect example of niche marketing.

The story doesn't end there of course cats had more to offer, which in marketing terms might be considered up selling off the backend.

It wasn't long before people saw that cats were valuable to have around since they kept the rat population under control, first in the granaries, and over time, in their homes. After several generations cats became a natural part of many households and after becoming accustomed to humans were domesticated.

When people found that cats were also friendly companions, the Law of Attraction once again offered the opportunity for cats to thrive and survive. The rest they say is history, but there is something more still that makes the cat an outstanding example of a marketing genius.

Once cats had established firmly established themselves in their niche the real brilliance of their marketing prowess became obvious. Cats took advantage of another natural talent and made more cats, lots more cats. For affiliate marketers the parallel couldn't be clearer. Go forth and multiply, make your success the success of others and grow your business building on the strength and value of those things the market needs or demands.

The moral of the story is simple; cats offered a value added service and filled an obvious need. It's marketing at it's simplest, direct straight forward and uncomplicated. Find a need, fill a need and look for ways to leverage that success by adding more value, repeat as often as possible.

Next time you see a cat lounging in a sunny window, show a little respect. Follow the cat's example and you too could become the next fat cat marketer on the Internet.

Safe Traveling For Your Dog, Cat or Bird

2008-01-29T01:56:00.000-08:00

Ear Problems in Cats: Causes and Treatment

2007-09-26T04:09:00.002-07:00

The inside lining of the ear is normally smooth with a small amount of wax buildup. Many problems can cause the ears to be irritated, inflamed and/or infected. Any of these causes left untreated can lead to more complicated problems, including middle and inner ear damage and hearing loss. Most cats let you know that their ears are uncomfortable by scratching, shaking and/or tilting their heads.

CAUSES

Ear mites are most common in ear problems adult cats and puppies. These microscopic mites have hairs on their body that irritate the ears. They are also responsible for the itching and the dark brown, coffee-like residue. Mites live primarily within the ear canal. They can also live outside of the ear and on other parts of the cats body, they do not infest your home.

* Trauma to the ear from foreign materials like plant seeds or over-aggressive cleaning can also cause pain and inflammation of the ears.

* Flea allergies can occasionally involve the ears.

* Allergic reactions to pollen, mold, and dust are not common in ears. Ear infections associated with allergies often recur until the underlying cause of the allergy is determined and treated.

SYMPTOMS

* Scratch ears often.

* Shake or tilt head.

* Odor and/or discharge from ears.

WHAT YOUR VET CAN DO

* Diagnosis involves examining a sample of the ear discharge under the microscope. This is called a Cytology and will identify the problem. The most effective treatment will be determined according to whether mites, yeast or bacteria are present.

* Ear mites can also live outside of the ear, on other parts of your cat's body. Flea control products can help to manage this problem.

* Instead of using eardrops to treat mite infections, you can now purchase a new topical treatment called Revolution (selamectin), applied onto the skin at 30 day intervals, which controls fleas, ticks, heartworms, intestinal worms and ear mites for cats and dogs.

* To prevent ear problems, check your cat's ears regularly. Only use products recommended by your vet to clean your cat's ears, and never clean any deeper than you can see.

* Long-term and/or recurrent ear infections may require a culture to pinpoint the exact agent responsible and the medication best suited to eliminate the infection.

NOTE: An otoscope is designed and illuminated to allow complete visualization of the ear canal

HEMATOMA (BLOODCLOT) OF THE EAR

* Hematomas usually occur as a result of self-inflicted trauma to the ear. Many cats vigorously Itch their ears because of a persistent underlying ear mite problem. A blood vessel in the earflap ruptures which causes bleeding into the earflap tissue. Treatment usually requires surgical

removal of blood clots and drainage of blood under anesthesia. Hematomas tend to recur until the underlying problem is eliminated because the cats continue to traumatize their ears by itching. Many ears scar down into an abnormal appearance.

TREATMENT

Milbemycin, is the active ingredient in Sentinel, a tablet given monthly to prevent heartworms, fleas, intestinal worms, and ear mites in cats. Selamectin is the active ingredient in Revolution, approved in cats, a monthly product that kills ear mites and walking dandruff mites, and prevents heartworms and fleas. New monthly flea preventative products have replaced ear drops to treat ear mites.

COMPLEMENTARY EAR TREATMENTS

Yeast Infections: Mixing equal parts of white vinegar and water (50:50) makes a good ear cleaning solution for yeast.

Bacterial Ear Infections: Garlic can be added to the diet only occasionally, continual high doses can cause anemia:

* Garlic has antibacterial and antifungal effects.

HERBALEAR REMEDIES

* Mullein (Verbascom thapsus)

* Mucilage or Sapenins have a demilucent effect.

* Use topically for bacterial ear infections.

* Calendula makes an effective ear cleaning solution: Mix one teaspoon of Calendula with ½ teaspoon sea salt and one cup of water.

* Calendula Oil is soothing to red inflamed ears. Apply two drops into ears once daily.

* To eliminate ear mites, Yellow Duck (Rumex crispus) two drops every 3rd day for three to six weeks.

HOMEOPATHIC EAR REMEDIES

For red, irritated ears try Pulsatilla (6c Windflower) one pellet every third day for two weeks. Withhold food ten minutes before and after treatment. Sepia officinalis (30C) two whole or three crushed pellets by mouth twice a day for three days then once a week, until the ears are healed. Helpful with itching and head shaking.

VESTIBULAR (MIDDLE EAR) DISEASE

Long-term and/or recurrent ear infections can spread to involve the middle ear. The middle ear houses nerves, called Vestibular nerves, which are responsible for balance and equilibrium. If these nerves are irritated, cats can lose their balance, tilt their heads, stagger and often fall over. This is called Vestibular Disease. Some cases are associated with ear infections and rarely brain tumors are responsible but the cause in most cases is unknown or idiopathic. The term Idiopathic Vestibular Disease is used in these cases.

DIAGNOSIS

X-rays are initially used to evaluate the middle ear. The bone housing the middle ear is called the Tympanic bulla and is located within the brain. The series of x-rays taken in this case, is respectively called a "Bulla Series". A CAT scan or MRI are more sensitive imaging techniques that may be necessary to allow visualization of this area of the brain if the x-rays are inconclusive.

Typically, most cases of Idiopathic Vestibular Syndrome occur for some as of yet unknown reason in the spring and fall. Cats suddenly tilt their heads and begin staggering, for no apparent reason. Cats generally improve within 72 hours and symptoms usually resolve in a couple weeks. Occasionally the head tilt persists.

Cat Vomiting: Causes and Treatments

2007-09-26T04:09:00.001-07:00

Vomiting that occurs occasionally in an otherwise healthy cat is generally not a cause for concern. Vomiting that persists for over 72 hours with or without signs of illness such as appetite loss, depression, lethargy, or diarrhea can indicate a more severe problem and should be addressed. The fluids lost during vomiting result in dehydration which could be potentially life threatening. The food, acids and other material expelled during vomiting can in other cases be lifesaving. Since cats are naturally carnivores, vomiting is a protective reflex used to eliminate bones, for example, after consuming a bird or rodent.

CAUSES

* Hairballs are the most common cause of periodic vomiting.

* Inflammatory Bowel Disease (IBD) is the most common cause of chronic vomiting. Vomiting hairballs daily is often the predominant sign of IBD in cats.

* Eating linear foreign objects - ribbon, tinsel, string are holiday favorites

* Parasites - round worms in kittens can cause vomiting

* Cancer - Mast cell tumors are a type of stomach cancer in cats that cause vomiting which may contain blood. The vomit may be blackish in color with a fowl odor because of the blood.

* Liver disease can result in stomach ulcers

* Chronic kidney failure

* Poisons - aspirin, antifreeze, plants, pesticides, cleaning agents, lead, herbicides, and heavy metals.

* Distemper virus in unvaccinated kittens

What you and your vet can do:

* Withholding food and water for 12 to 24 hours allows the body to recover and controls most mild cases of vomiting.

* Giving food and/or water at this time usually makes vomiting worse.

* Gradually reintroducing small frequent meals several times daily over the next 2-3 days resolves most cases.

COMPLEMENTARY THERAPY

Homeopathic

* Nux Vomica 6c - Use for cats that acts moderately ill and want to be left alone or are hiding. No food 10 minutes before or after treatment.

The dosage is 1 pellet every 4 hours until the signs are gone. Discontinue if cat is not better after 24 hours. Continue up to 5 days if the cat is responding.

* Pulsatilla 6c - Use for cats reluctant to drink. Use same dose as for Nux Vomica.

Herbal

* Chamomile Tea - This herb is soothing and relieves nausea. Use for mild stomach upsets.

Recipe: Pour 1 cup of boiling water over 1 TBSP of the flowers, steep 15 minutes, strain and dilute with an equal amount of water. Give a teaspoon at a time after food and water have already been withheld for the first 12 to 24 hours.

Cat Training - Don't Buy Expensive Products

2007-04-25T04:46:00.002-07:00

I was reading an article recently which was, in fact, a terse commentary to my own article about how to discipline a cat. The author was berating my comments and clearly trying to get his own readers to follow his own doctrine. The information I gave, based on opinion and the fact that I have owned cats for many, many years, was solid and factual. Oh, and it was free. His information, however, led the reader to an expensive digital product about some system that not only purported to be effective but which, rather unsurprisingly, carried a significant price tag. It was also full of gobbledegook and showed, in my opinion, lack of feline knowledge.

Training your cat or disciplining it can often prove to be very difficult. They have a smaller brain capacity to dogs- yet still show a unique wisdom. But, you don't need to buy an expensive digital product when you can simply follow some basic rules.

Cats can be destructive animals so many owners tend to have cats de-clawed. This process will ensure the safety of your furniture around the house from sustaining tears and rips. This can be very cruel, however, as it is natural for a cat to use its nails. When it is scratching something- including you, it is merely sharpening its nails or ‘playing’ with you like it would another cat.

A reaction to bad behavior is naturally to slap or hit your cat- but they do not respond well to physical abuse. It will think you are playing, or will obtain an attitude problem as a result of this treatment. The only treatments that work are loud noises and water guns. A loud clap, or squirt with a water gun, will effectively tell your cat it did something wrong in a sensible manner.

You should never discipline your cat if they haven’t done anything wrong - this prevents confusion. You can also use these methods to ‘teach’ your cats new things- such as where to relieve themselves. Cat training can prove to be quite difficult- but it is often very much worth it in the end to cat lovers everywhere.

Feline Asthma - Investigation and Treatment

2007-04-25T04:46:00.001-07:00

It is quite common for cats to present to veterinary clinics with a chronic cough or wheeze. The problem may be constant or just recur from time to time, and can range from mild to severe. Clinically the disease may resemble human asthma, but the term feline asthma can be misleading as there are a number of different possible causes. Here we look at what those underlying causes can be, and the different forms of treatment available to affected cats.

Cats usually present with one or all the following signs:

1. Coughing
2. Wheezing
3. Difficulty breathing

A minority of cases will have the classic human status asthmaticus, rapid onset breathing difficulty due to severe narrowing of the bronchi. Cats tend to be middle aged or older, and Siamese cats may be more prone than other breeds.

The Pathology

Little is known about the underlying causes or exacerbating factors in feline asthma. There may be an element of genetic predisposition. While chronic inhalation of airway irritants, such as smoking, has been shown to cause bronchitis in humans, this has not been studied in detail in cats. Likewise, allergens such as pollen, housedust mites, dander, fungal spores, dust and cat litter could all be implicated theoretically.

To return to the comparison with human asthma, when trying to understand the underlying causes it is important to differentiate between asthma (constriction of the bronchi), chronic bronchitis (oversecretion of mucus with a chronic cough) and COPD (chronic obstructive pulmonary disease). Asthma is reversible bronchial constriction caused by eosinophil cells, whereas COPD is irreversible bronchial constriction involving neutrophil cells.

The Differentials

There are a large number of possible diagnoses when a cat first presents with coughing or breathing difficulty. Here are some of the more important ones:

1. Pulmonary edema. Often due to severe heart disease.
2. Infectious bronchitis. This can be due to bacteria, viruses or parasites.
3. Pleural disease. Filling of the space between the lung and the chest wall with air or an effusion.
4. Cancer. This can be a primary lung tumor or metastatic spread.
5. Potassium bromide induced respiratory disease. A side effect from an anti-epileptic drug.
6. Idiopathic pulmonary fibrosis. Responds poorly to treatment.
7. Pulmonary thromboembolus. Lodging of a clot in a respiratory blood vessel causing sudden onset breathing difficulty.
8. Pulmonary hypertension. Usually secondary to other heart or respiratory disease.

Diagnosis

1. Clinical examination

The first step in the diagnostic protocol is a thorough clinical examination by a veterinarian. This should localize the origin of the disease to the upper airways, lower airways or pleural space. If the cat is found to have pleural disease, a needle may be inserted straight away to remove either air or a sample of the effusion for both diagnosis and short term treatment of the respiratory distress.

2. Radiography

The next test performed is usually thoracic radiography. This is best performed under general anesthetic so there is lee chance for motion blur, though in acute situations this is not possible. This is where the most meaningful information can be gained.

3. Bronchoscopy

Bronchoscopy allows visualization of the larger airways, and assessment for increased mucus and inflammation.

4. Tracheal wash

This involves injecting a small amount of saline into the trachea and immediately withdrawing it, and then examining the cells and debris harvested under a microscope.

5. Bronchoalveolar lavage

This is similar to the technique described above, but the catheter is inserted all the way into a lower airway before the saline is injected and withdrawn. This is therefore a good test for lower airway disease.

6. Lung biopsy

This is an invasive procedure that carries a significant risk to the patient. It is only indicated where diffuse cancer or extensive fibrosis is suspected, or in severe disease that responds poorly to treatment.

Treatment

The aims of treatment are as follows.

1. Eliminate any suspected infectious agents. This may be a sufficiently long course of antibiotics if bacterial infection is suspected, or a wormer such as fenbendazole if lungworm is suspected.

2. Remove or avoid airway irritants. The most obvious one is ensuring the cat has no contact with cigarette smoke, and purchasing dust free cat litter.

3. Removal or avoidance of potential allergens. House dust mite allergy must be excluded by spraying the house with an acaricidal product.

4. Chronic therapy for the underlying condition. For long term treatment of cats with feline asthma, a combination of steroids and bronchodilators are a popular choice. Steroids reduce the inflammation and lower mucus production, and can limit long term consequences such as fibrosis. Bronchodilators are most useful when there is airway spasm. Traditionally, medication has been given orally via tablets, but over the last few years, metered dose inhalers such as the ones used for human asthma have come on the market.

Aerosol therapy has the advantage that the maximum concentration of drug is delivered to the target site. This means that lower overall doses can be used, and the cat is less likely to suffer the negative side effects of steroids. Various inhalers can be used in both cats and dogs, but they tend to be designed for humans. As a result, higher doses are given compared with human medicine, as humans can be instructed to breathe deeply whereas cats will breathe normally at best.

Glucocorticoid drugs (steroids) used in inhalers include Beclometasone, Fluticasone and Budesonide. Beclometasone is cheap, but is rapidly absorbed into the bloodstream when you want it to hang around in the area where it applied. Fluticasone is more expensive, but tends to stay where you want it to. Budesonide is relatively inexpensive and though it is easily absorbed into the bloodstream, it tends to be removed the first time it goes through the liver.

Bronchodilator drugs used in inhalers include Salbutamol and Salmeterol. Salbutamol is very fast acting and therefore useful in a crisis caused by spasm of the bronchi. However, it only lasts for about 30 minutes and is therefore unsuitable for chronic therapy as frequent dosing is required. Salmeterol on the other hand is longer acting, and lasts for about 12 hours so twice daily dosing is possible. Salmeterol is better for long term control of mild to moderate asthma while Salbutamol is better for relief of acute bronchospasm.

The Seretide Evohaler is useful for cats requiring both steroid and bronchodilator therapy. It contains salbutamol and fluticasone, a combination allowing minimal dosing frequency.

The Importance Of Appropriate Cat Food

2007-04-25T04:45:00.004-07:00

Part of the responsibility of pet ownership is the care and feeding of our animal friends. For cat owners, appropriate feline care can greatly increase the health of our cats and extend their lives significantly. Subsequently, choosing the appropriate cat food – based on breed and size - is of the utmost importance in taking responsible care of our cats.

Cat food comes in a dizzying array of choices; as we browse the shelves, we hardly know where to start. The most important thing to remember when choosing a cat food is that each particular brand is specifically designed for a particular stage in a cat’s life. So a food that is appropriate for a kitten is not appropriate for an older cat. Read the packaging to determine what cat food is meant for your specific age of cat.

That being said, there are still quite a lot of ingredients and nutritional contradictions when it comes to cat food. A reputable veterinarian will be able to tell you what is essential to the health and longevity of your cat. It is important that you follow these guidelines when making a selection of cat food based on the nutrients it offers.

To narrow it down even further, when it comes to choosing between brands, look for those that carry an Association of American Feed Control Officials (AAFCO) seal of approval. This ensures that this particular brand of cat food meets with the nutritional guidelines as set forth by the AAFCO.

Other things to take into consideration when it comes to cat food are the size and health of your cat. Stay within the feed guidelines – as recommended by your veterinarian – for your cat’s size. And if your cat has any existing health conditions you must be sure to take this into consideration when asking your veterinarian about appropriate cat food.

Cat food can be found anywhere from your grocery store to your local large retail outlet or pet supply store. The pet stores tend to carry a larger selection and offer a more competitive price so if you have one close by it is worth checking out.

Feeding your cat the most appropriate cat food for them is an essential part of an overall program for good health and long life.

Understanding The Changes of Your Aging Cat

2007-04-25T04:45:00.003-07:00

A cat will not always be young and sharp, and after it grows old, its senses will become duller, such as vision worsening and hearing or sense of smell deteriorating. Some cats age before others, or have different changes as they age, so here are some common signs of aging in a cat that you should look out for to be able to take care of your cat.

Some changes may be harder than others to notice, for your cat may have adapted to the changes themselves. But after some extra attention and checkups, you should be able to find out diseases or negative aspects of your cat’s aging, and find the best prevention method. Some changes would be noticeable, such as dental diseases, which causes bad breath.

Besides that, there are also harder-to-spot signs such as hearing senses deteriorating. Your cat may have gotten used to not hearing as properly as it used to, and due to that, you would not have known that your cat is actually becoming deafer.

To find out for sure if your cat is really not hearing well, you can look out for its reactions to certain noises. Once when your cat used to react quickly to loud sounds and yet now, it is not really startled, or shows no signs of hearing the sound, you can be sure that your cat is suffering from hearing loss.

Snap your fingers quickly behind your cat’s head, and see if it curls back right away, or react in any way to the direction of the noise. If your cat is unsure of the origins of the noise, or looking somewhere else instead, then you can be certain it has hearing problems.

If you usually keep your pet in the house, then there is no need to worry about its loss in hearing. If your cat is an outdoor cat, then you should take precautions about letting it wander outside, as it may not be able to hear oncoming dangers such as vehicles or other animals like dogs. As it cannot hear the approaching sounds of these things, it may become a victim before it realizes it is in danger.

Besides hearing and eyesight that is affected in your cat, its sense of taste is also reducing. For cats, this could be a problem, for they are picky animals that usually test and smell at their food to see if it is still good, or spoilt. Therefore if they cannot sense if it is delicious enough or bad, they may ignore the food, and not eat it for enough nutrition. An aging cat needs its health, and this may be damaging for its health. See below for more information on Siamese Cats.

Choosing a Veterinarian for Your Cat - Five Things to Consider

2007-04-25T04:45:00.001-07:00

Our choice of veterinarian can be one of the most important long-term decisions we can make for our cats. Many people make the decision based on cost. Others make it based on the office closest to their house. Cost and location are important consideration but there are other things to take into consideration when placing your cat’s life in someone’s hands.

1. Accessibility. Location is part of accessibility. While the best vet in the area may be “only” forty minutes away, what if you have an emergency? Do you want to drive that far? If you are choosing a veterinarian closer to you, what is their policy on emergencies? Can you get your cat in as soon as you need to or do they refer to another doctor? If they have multiple doctors in their office, can you request that the doctor you regularly see treat your cat once the life threatening emergency has passed?

When considering accessibility, you also want to consider how easy it is to reach the veterinarian by phone. In many cases technicians are more than capable of answering questions about your pet and setting up appointments if it goes beyond their knowledge, but what about when you have a specific question about blood work? Does your veterinarian return your calls promptly?

2. Communication. This can be a big issue. If you have questions about your cat’s health, can your vet answer them so that you understand them? Do they talk at the level you understand? Many people have medical backgrounds. They don’t need a doctor telling them in simple general terms about what’s going on with their pet’s blood work, they want to know the actual numbers. Other people just want to know what those numbers mean. Can your veterinarian talk to you?

3. Specialization. Should you go to a veterinarian who specializes in cats? Many people choose to do this. They like an office where there are only cats. Their cats are not exposed to barking dogs and the visits are less stressful. Other vets have separate entrances for cats and for dogs, which can make it easier for cats who are stressed by dogs.

Veterinarians who specialize in cats often have a better grasp of cat specific illnesses simply because they only treat cats and are more likely to be exposed to these illnesses. They can be a font of knowledge about some of the more unusual cat breeds as well.

Whether or not your veterinarian specializes only in cats is less important than whether or not your veterinarian appreciates the bond you have with your cat. They should understand that your cat is very important to you. They should be able to honor that bond.

4. Costs. Cost is important. No matter how wonderful or knowledgeable the veterinarian is, if you can’t afford to see them, there’s a problem. If you can’t afford any veterinarian, you might want to consider delaying adopting a cat. Medical expenses happen.

Some clinics are more expensive than others. Some clinics also insist that owners always do thorough blood work and recommend expensive diagnostic tests and treatments without offering the owner any other more “cost effective” options. While the most expensive may be the best way to go, it’s important to know that if there are alternatives, your veterinarian will tell you about them.

5. Comfort. Are you comfortable in the office? What about your cat? While going to the vet is rarely a cat’s favorite activity, an office that makes you and your cat feel more comfortable can ease a lot of stress. Consider how you feel upon thinking about going to the vet. If it’s very stressful for you, your cat will know. They’ll be stressed as well. Look for an office that will make you feel more welcome and works on easing your fears and your cats fears.

There are many wonderful veterinarian offices out there. No one office is the right office for everyone. Communication styles differ. Different office décor can make some people comfortable but not others. The most important thing is to find the vet that fits you and your cat.

What to Feed Your Parrot

2007-04-13T05:18:00.002-07:00

Over the last few decades, a new trend popped up regarding pet nutrition, regardless of the type of pet involved. This trend focused on giving your pet the food that they would hypothetically eat in the wild if they were still feral. The supporters of this method argument it with the fact that eating raw, natural food keeps your pet healthy and lively, whereas stuffing him with commercial nutrients can cause some serious problems. At the same extent, supporters of the traditional diet methods say that the natural food diets don’t work, for the simple reason that the pet doesn’t get the amount of exercise, freedom and harshness he gets in his potential “wild” state, thus the natural diet has no effect. Parrots make no exception from the rule, as there have been many parrot nutrition disputes over the last few years, regarding the two types of diets.

So how should a parrot owner go about this problem? Should you only feed him natural stuff such as weeds, leaf buds, seeds and fruit parts? Should you try a commercial parrot food pack that boasts with having “all the nutrients your parrot needs”? Or should you try a combination of the two? Although it’s a matter of personal preference, one could conclude that a combination between natural and commercial food is the best, since it offers everything a parrot needs: tasty natural food and his daily requirement of vitamins from the commercial supplements.

When it comes to food, parrots are not picky at all. Although they might not enjoy everything you give them at first, they’ll usually get used to that food type in a short while. Still, you should note that not all food types are healthy for your parrot (although they’ll still eat them). Food holding large amounts of salt can be extremely unhealthy for your parrot, since he won’t be able to excrete all the salt. So avoid giving him any mashed chips, dinner leftovers and basically anything that you’ve salted beforehand.

Also, make sure your parrot doesn’t get a single type of food on his daily diet. Eating seeds may be tasty for him, but note that seeds are not that healthy and they definitely don’t contain the required amount of nutrients a parrot needs on a daily basis. Some pet dietitians compare seeds with junk food, since they will be eagerly eaten by your parrot, but they’re not the healthiest of options. Still, seeds have a very practical use. If your parrot got used to a specific type of diet and you want to switch to a healthier one (but usually less tasty) that he simply will refuse to eat at first, it’s a good idea to “sprinkle” the new food with some tasty seeds in order to tempt your parrot to eat. Once they get the taste of the seeds, they will dig right in to the new food type and eventually get used to it.

The amount and type of food your parrot requires is also heavily dependent on his species and his size. Make sure you try different diets for him and notice which one works, since the correctness of the diet is directly proportional with your parrot’s life span. A good, healthy diet can give him as much as an extra decade of life, so if you care about your pet it’s a good idea to make sure he gets what he needs from his food.

Teaching Your Parrot How to Talk

2007-04-13T05:18:00.001-07:00

Parrots are famous throughout the World, not only because of their exotic, colorful and cheerful looks, but also for their unique ability to reproduce words with a precision that often knocks at the door between fun and scary. When you hear about a “talking parrot” don’t get confused thinking one could engage in minor chit chat with it, the words they reproduce are basically “recordings”, but admittedly, they will also learn how to respond to some sentences or words, with their own.

As long as you don’t overload their vocabulary, parrots can be thought to say almost anything you want them too, as long as you keep it clear and simple. It’s evident that you’ll have an easier time teaching your parrot to say “I love you” rather than the German “Luftschiffkapitän”, since it’s clearer and easier to pronounce (that doesn’t mean that parrots prefer English to German though). And yes, I know what you’re thinking, parrots can be easily trained to swear and they can even learn to swear without any training, simply by living in an environment where curses are used all the time.

The story of Charlie the Cursing parrot is of notoriety, the 50 year old parrot belonging to Winston Churchill being thought to throw curses at the Nazis during the Second World War.

But getting back to how you can teach your parrot to talk, there are basically two main strategies you can undergo. One would be to buy a training tape and place it near his cage. These tapes repeat specific sentences or words over and over again and many owners leave them on and on auto-repeat while they’re off to work. Eventually, your parrot will start to grasp and reproduce the sounds he hears, but this method is extremely annoying for him. Because it looks more like a torture method rather than a training one, most parrot owners tend to go the “hard way”.

The hard way means that you’ll have to personally take care of the parrot’s training. It’s obviously best if you start doing so while he’s at a younger age, relating an action (such as feeding him for example) with a word or sentence. For example, every time you hand-feed the parrot, say “Thank you!”. After a while, if you keep focusing on these words, he’ll form a link between them and getting fed and he’ll start reproducing the sounds when you hand-feed him. You could also give him a reward when you hear him “talking”, so he’ll be more eager to pronounce the words.

To conclude, you should take note that some parrots are less trainable than others in this regard. Amazons and Conures are known to be great talkers, whereas Lorikeets are commonly regarded as less likely to be successfully trained to reproduce sounds. Some species only start talking at older ages (such as the African Greys for example) whereas others are extremely chatty even in their first few years. Even if you own a parrot that is less likely to talk, training him in this direction is extremely fun (actually, experienced parrot trainers state that it’s more fun to successfully train a parrot that doesn’t have an affinity for sound reproduction, rather than one that’s considered chatty by nature) so you should make the best of it.

Parrots As Pets

2007-04-13T05:17:00.002-07:00

When hearing the word “pet”, most people instantly think of a dog or a cat, since they’re the most popular choices for house animals. Parrots are more exotic and less demanding than a cat or a dog and they will probably be less involved in their owner’s life. Nevertheless, parrots make excellent pets for a number of reasons: they give your home an exotic touch, just like having an exotic fish tank for example; they are fun to watch and play with; they don’t require the same amount of attention and training as other pets; they’re not as expensive to maintain and their ability to reproduce sounds can be extremely entertaining, given the right training.

There are approximately 360 species of parrots but not all of them are commonly adapted to being pets. Some of the most popular subspecies in this sense are macaws, amazons, conures, lovebirds, cockatiels, cockatoos, budgerigars and parakeets. These species are the most appealing to be kept as pets because of their varied coloration, high trainability and the relative ease with which they can be taken care of in a closed environment.

One of the biggest problems of having a pet is that you can get extremely attached to them, sometimes even considering them close to a family member, their short life span (around 12-15 years with cats and dogs) being an extremely painful subject.

That’s not the problem with parrots thought, since most parrots have very long life spans, similar to those of humans. Statistics show that larger parrots such as macaws, cockatoos, or Amazon parrots can live up to an age of 75-80.

One of the oldest pet parrots in the world, Charlie the Curser is a blue and gold female macaw born in 1899. Charlie was the pet of Winston Churchill during his mandate as Prime Minister through the Second World War, the parrot gaining her nickname because she reportedly learnt how to curse Nazis, cheering up Churchill and his guests.

Although there are still doubts to whether or not this story is true (since Charlie’s old age hinders her from making any sounds whatsoever), the parrot’s old age remains undisputed. At present, Charlie the Curser is being taken care of at the Heathfield Nurseries in Surrey, United Kingdom.

When it comes to their nutrition, parrots are far from demanding and expensive. The “main course” in any parrot’s diet is usually comprised of grains and seeds, but recently, more and more commercial parrot food companies tend to have products that include vegetables, fruits, cereals as well as nutritional supplements. These fortify your parrot’s health, making them more playful and lively.

Take note however that parrots, as other pets, don’t take lightly to constant diet changes. Once they get used to a specific type of food, they’ll have a harder time adapting to a new diet so if you want to change it, try taking it slowly, one step at a time, constantly mixing the two diets until he gets used to the new one.

Parrot Training Tips

2007-04-13T05:17:00.001-07:00

As with all other pets you might have, a parrot’s training is based on the reward/ignore/punish method. However, you’ll have to apply some specific training strategies that only work for our colorful friends, strategies that have proven to be extremely effective in numerous training programs. We’ve set up a list of short tips and tricks that could help you train and shape your parrot the way you want him. It should be noted that most of these tips work best if the parrot is still at a young age and hasn’t yet had the chance to “grow habits”, but with a little hard work, they can be adapted to adult parrots as well.

So here it goes:

1. Reward your parrot

Whenever you want to teach your parrot something new and you see him doing it right, reward him with his favorite food treat, a pat on the head and a congratulation, a short play session or whatever you see fit as a reward. Although he won’t know what’s happening at first, as most pets do, he will soon adapt and correlate his reward with the action he took. Make sure you don’t exaggerate with the rewards and also make sure the rewards are relatively unique, meaning that you should have some food treats that you will only feed him as a reward, making them special.

2. Ignore instead of punishing

Parrots don’t take punishing too lightly and they’re also not very susceptible to it as other pets are. Sure, you can give your pet dog a mild slap to the back when he poops in the house, but how are you going to apply that to your parrot? It’s best if you ignore your parrot’s wrong doings as much as possible and focus on his good deeds, rewarding him. If he notices he gets rewards for certain actions, he’ll contain himself from performing the actions that bring him a painful ignorance.

3. Make your training sessions frequent and short

With cats or dogs, it’s recommended that training sessions take longer, but then again cats and dogs have the ability to stay focused to such training for longer periods of time. Parrots are often more distractible and they might get bored quickly if they have to perform a single action for a longer time period. That’s why it’s best to keep training sessions short (10-20 minutes) but make sure they are performed regularly, 2 or 3 times a day.

4. Don’t over-reward your parrot

Parrots catch on really quickly and you’ll most likely be forced to give them a lot of praise and treats for their good deeds, in a short amount of time. In this case, the problem of over-rewarding can soon become a problem. That’s why you need to make sure that you don’t feed your parrot a treat with each good action and simply give him a word of praise from time to time. This is done in order for him not to get too used to the reward technique and “blackmail” you into a treat, by only performing the rewarded action when you have a treat handy.

How Much Is that Eclectus Parrot in the Window?

2007-04-13T05:16:00.000-07:00

Of more than 350 species of parrot, the Eclectus is considered by many to be the most beautiful. Eclectus are not just beautiful, however. They are also great talkers, repeating many words and phrases, and singing songs. If you have more than one Eclectus, they will sing and talk to one another as well as to their human friends.

Which Eclectus Do You Want?

Eclectus parrot prices differ according to the Eclectus you want.

The Eclectus belongs to the genus Eclectus, and the species Roratus. There are 7 to 9 subspecies within the species. The three most popular are:

1. The Red-sided Eclectus from New Guinea, to the north of Australia. It is the most popular Eclectus in Australia, and highly popular in other lands as well. With plumage that seems to be hair rather than feathers, the male sports emerald green with blue in the bend of his wings When he flies, red flashes from beneath the wings. The female has a red head, maroon body, deep blue to purple breast feathers, and a tail that ends in a pale red-pink to orange.

2. The Solomon Eclectus native to Bismarck and the Solomon Islands, north of Australia. Males have yellow-tinted green bodies with dark blue wings, edged in green. The upper side of the tail is green with yellow edging. The underside of the tail is black, edged with a thin band of pale yellow. Females have stunning red plumage, with dark blue under-wings and a band of dark blue running to the nape. Wings are the same as the male – red tails have pale edging.

3. The Vosmaeri Eclectus native to Moluccas, Indonesia. Males have a bright green body, with oval patches of bright red on upper thighs, widening across the body when wings open. The tail is blackish blue, tipped with pale yellow. Females have bright lavender breasts, with red bodies and heads. The nape of the neck, upper mantle, and wing bend show deep lavender. The wings are deep red, tails cadmium-yellow beneath, dark red on top, and a band of yellow.

General Pricing

Eclectus parrot prices usually range from the Solomon Eclectus at the low end to the Vosmaeri at the high end.

Breeder Eclectus Parrot Prices

As of the writing of this article (February 2007), Eclectus parrot prices ranged from $800 to $1,200 each. Sample Eclectus parrot prices are listed here:

1. Solomon Eclectus: $800, male or female
2. Red-sided Eclectus: $845, male or female
3. Vosmaeri Eclectus: $1,000 for a male, $1,200 for a female

All Eclectus parrot prices given are U.S. breeders, U.S. dollars.

“Bargain” Eclectus Parrot Prices

When is a bargain a bargain? Eclectus parrot prices can be lower on eBay or other online auction sites. You can also find lower Eclectus parrot prices in local newspaper classified ads. These carry no guarantee, of course, and the parrots may not be healthy.

Whatever the Eclectus parrot prices you find, you will want to be more careful than the buyer in this bit of humor.

The Multilingual Eclectus

A man passing a pet shop sees 3 beautiful Solomon Eclectus priced at $1,500. He goes into the shop and asks, “Why such high Eclectus parrot prices?”

“Each of them speaks five languages,” says the salesman.

“Five languages!” exclaims the man. “Do they speak Yiddish?”

“Sure,” says the salesman.

The man looks at the Eclectus again. “My mother lives all alone in the Bronx,” he says, “and a bird would be good company for her,” He pays the $1,500, asks to have a parrot delivered to his mother, and goes on his way.

The next day, he calls his mother and asks, “Mom, how did you like the Eclectus parrot I sent you?”

“Oh son, it was delicious!” she says.

“What do you mean delicious?”

“I made soup out of it – came out great!”

“But mom, that parrot spoke five languages!”

“So, why didn't he say something?”

Hidden Eclectus Parrot Prices

Before you purchase, you should consider the fact that Eclectus parrot prices are only the beginning. You will also have the costs of a large cage, toys, food, and other needs. Hidden Eclectus parrot prices can mount swiftly.

Familiarizing Yourself With Different Parrot Species

2007-04-05T23:23:00.001-07:00

Fascinated to the world of the fast-talking, fun-loving parrots? Are you contemplating on the idea of getting one as your pet bird? If you have plans of purchasing one in the future, then you must familiarize yourself with the different parrot species existing in the pet trades and pet stores today.

As defined, parrots are a very popular group of birds for possessing high intelligence depending on the degree of its socialization and training. Famous for its ability to imitate human speech and various sounds, these tropical colorful birds are mainly found in Australia and South America.

Having a variety of species, parrots differ in size and color. Some parrots are bigger and grander while others are smaller and typical. When it comes to colors, green is considered the most common shade of parrots and are usually wonderful pets for their amazing talking abilities. Several types of parrots are multi-colored—with a distinctive combination of bright blue, yellow, green, and white mixtures.

These birds are also characterized by having powerful hooked bills and feet meant for tree climbing. Mainly vegetarian, other basic foods of almost all types of parrots are includes fruits, chicken or meat and a lot of seeds. Although they belong to only one family of birds, parrot species have distinctive personalities and nature. Some of them are naturally friendly while some are moody and destructive because they pluck their feathers if they are bored or unhappy.

Parrot species include Macaws, Conures, Amazons, African Gray Parrots, Cockatiels, Cockatoos, Budgerigars, and Eclectus. Macaws are one of the most coveted birds in aviculture because of their comical and affectionate nature. Conures, on the other hand, are small cousins of the Macaw that has 2 sub-specie: Aratinga and the Pyrrhura.

While Conures are known for its variety of color and gentle personality, Amazons are famous for their superb talking ability. Considered as the most popular large parrots in aviculture that exhibits distinct personalities, amazons are often considered as delightful pets for imitating sounds well.

African Grey Parrots is probably the most intelligent parrot there is. Despite their intelligence, greys can be hard to handle because they are generally quiet, resulting to stress attacks and reactions.

Cockatoos are considered among the favorites because they are beautiful, smart, playful, cuddly, and good talkers. Although they are generally tame, cockatoos can be hard to handle because they thrive in too much attention.

Cockatiels are most common pet birds because they are easy to breed and are relatively inexpensive pets; Budgerigars or “parakeets” that are usually afraid of humans if not trained properly; and the Eclectus that are “sexually dimorphic” or the male and females look markedly different.

Disadvantages of Having Parrots for a Pet

2007-04-05T23:22:00.003-07:00

Parrots can be pretty hard to take care of. Unlike other pets that can be left alone in their cages, parrots are restless creatures who you have to check up on a couple of times every day. Here are just some things that parrots can do to your home.

Parrots can be pretty messy

If you are the type that would like the house to be spotless, try to reconsider getting a parrot or any pet for that matter. Parrots can be really messy, even a small parakeet.

Their food can be flung everywhere even when they are inside the cage. Your floor can be filled up by pellets, seed, and nutshells. Sticky foods may also be plastered on the walls, on the bars of the cage and even at the ceilings. Foods will literally be everywhere.

Another problem that you may have are their poop, which you really have to clean everyday. And they are not that disciplined to only poop in one place. They actually poop everywhere, in bars, in their food dish and even with the toys that you give them. They may even poop in between bars, which may end up on the floor and sometimes even on you.

If you have a cockatiel variety or the grey breed, you will also have to contend with the powder that they have on their feathers. The feathers will stick everywhere. So, you really have to dust everyday.

Because of this, you have to scrub the cage, their dish and the whole of the area at least once a day to prevent bacteria from settling in and of course the bad smell.

2. Parrots chew on everything

Parrots love chewing wood. In fact, owners of parrots often give them wooden toys to play and chew with inside their cages. Parrots however are not satisfied with just these toys. When they get the opportunity, they will chew on everything that they get their hands on. They will puncture your clothes, your furniture, even your books.

This can be really frustrating especially if you are the type of person who wants a clean house. Parrots are not recommended in homes that have dainty and fragile furniture. They should also not be placed in areas where they can break things and chew on antiques.

Be careful with wearing jewelry because they will sure to grab it or chew it. Parrots love shiny things. They can claw the stone right out of your favorite jewelry.

A Way of Handling Your Pet Bird

2007-04-05T23:22:00.001-07:00

Bird trainers have developed skills or techniques, and become experts in understanding the behavioral nature of the parrot. Several books, manuscript, and guidelines in promoting the positive angles to be on the win side in behavioral conquest of the bird have helped a lot of amateurs and pet owners.

Parrots are the most misunderstood birds in existence. It's up for you to get thru better relationships with your bird, for it is, what you make it so. Before knowing it, at a slightest trait overlook, this bird in your cage could create havocs of anxiety and frustrations in your life. Basically, parrots need real training, otherwise, you will one day find out, it becomes an undesirable annoying character stealing away every bit of your peaceful, chaos-free moments.

Basics in training start with the bird's character traits and instincts. Your first approach is to notice its biting habits and screaming. These are inherent to parrots especially if it seemed likely to be ignored. Like humans they develop into emotional outburst, and their tendency is to find an object to threw out their fits.

Instinctive biting and screaming loudly distract. Try to find out what causes such behavior. Every bit of undesirable action could be a reaction that actually comes from its surrounding environment, either from your very self, or from anyone among your companions inside the house.

Behavioral Aspects in Training

1. Let us deal into terms similar to psychology in humans.

*Operant conditioning, situation in training, on other domestics or your bird pet; reacting well in order to gain something positive, or to evade from something negative. Example: Directing your bird to whistle, if it mimics the action, you hand in its food. Next time, instinct to eat allows impulsive choice to obey, whatever you want it to do, a whip of your finger, or cue from your mouth.

*Bridging stimulus set an example, when a hand is raised to command the bird to perch in one corner of the cage, the demonstrative actions serve a bridge for the parrot to choose in abeyance following the hand cuing, because a toy is ready at reach.

2. Do not punish pets for any negative attitude or actions done previously.

Example: When it unties cage's knots (birds do kept biting and untying); long time before you discovered it, don't whip or deprive it of meals. Birds or animals do not know of past and future. Bird's instinct is to live or act "here" and "now," and never aware of anything done ostentatiously. Turn to let a parrot obey you on what it does at the moment.

A large scale of parrot species need to be captivated to insure you with one of the best pet favored by many households. Research where your pet originated in order to pursue utmost care in mutual relationships between humans and birds.

Adopt a Smaller Pet Bird

2007-04-05T23:21:00.000-07:00

The bird with the scientific name Poicephalus Meyeri originated from the wilds of Central and Eastern Africa. Meyers have gone thru countless hybrids without having to consider instant look "standard" in plume color and other features. Meyer parrots appear to be of six sub-species; each looking perfectly similar with the rest, resulting to lack of dominant marks to distinguish each from the others.

It is believed that breeding has started from the wilds where the bird originated, and gone thru with disregard in the proper manipulations and considerations on the bird's total breed. Meyeri parrots are inferior in size compared to other birds, preferred choice for household pets. Being small saves you from preparing a large cage, conducive to smaller space in its foster home.

Like other parrots, there's no assurance that the Meyer will talk. It takes a lot of patience and determination to let it mimic in return to efforts done in training. The disadvantage of its having gone thru unprecedented hybrid processes is believed to have started while on captives in the forests; original breeders, mindless to focus on basic colors.

Later breeders have difficulty in their assessments; as to whether they could still resolve to come up with the desired feather color combinations, that may under mind a fixed determining appearance of the bird. They are less capable to detect how many species are scattered, making for a whole population of confusing inter hybrid in captivity.

Will All Jungle Parrots Become Extinct One Day?

2007-04-05T23:18:00.000-07:00

There are many different types of species of parrots and many of them live in the jungle, these are known as jungle parrots. Some particular species of jungle parrots include, Amazon parrots, African grey parrots and Quaker parrots and are commonly kept as household pets in today's modern society. There is however a concern that many parrots are being taken from their natural habitat and sold on the black market for vast sums of money to hungry customers in the Western world. The jungle parrot population in African jungles, especially in the Congo is dropping at an alarming rate and many species are on the brink of extinction. Something needs to be done to stop this from occurring.

What Are Some Prevention Methods?

Several countries are realizing this important fact and are actually doing things to prevent poachers and hunters from capturing jungle parrots and taking them out of their natural habitats. There are organizations within certain governments who's sole task is to stop hunters and poachers from capturing native parrots. They have only been going on for a few years now but are already beginning to show results. Population numbers are rising among certain parrot species, however there are still many parrots being captured all around the world. The sad thing is that only a certain percentage of parrots actually survive the trauma they are put through after being incarcerated for extended amounts of time. When these jungle parrots are sent overseas to be sold on the blackmarket, they are squeezed into a thin cylindrical tube about the width of a tennis ball and sent off for usually a two or three day journey before they are released. Most don't make it.

What About Education?

There is of course light at the end of the tunnel. Many reserves are being created that are tightly secured to stop poachers from getting in and capturing many of the jungle parrots that call these habitats home. Because of these newly created reserves, the parrot numbers have begun to climb and are finally showing results. Breeding centers are also helping to increase parrot numbers by introducing new parrots in to the wild that have been bred in captivity. Probably the most important scheme taking place is the education of children in schools throughout Africa and South America. These schools are designed to teach children to care for the wildlife and to show them how important it is that parrots in the jungles are kept alive and in the wild. Our children will of course be the driving force in the next generation and if they have a sense of pride and respect for the wildlife, then we can say that all the jungle parrots have a fighting chance at a future.

First Aid For Your Exotic Pet Bird Or Parrot

2007-04-04T02:01:00.001-07:00

Although you cannot dial 911, you should have your Avian Veterinarian's phone number close at hand. When a bird is sick, he or she hides it well because in nature, the flock, out of fear of disease, might harm a bird that appears ill so as to protect the flock from all becoming sick.

Therefore, by the time you notice signs of illness in your parrot, the bird may have already been sick for some time. Be in touch with your bird's personality and characteristics that are "normal", so that you will recognize any signs of "abnormal" behavior.

What should you watch for as "abnormal" behavior?

* Respiratory distress of any kind, difficulty breathing.
* Lack of appetite. You may notice food untouched or clean water that normally is used to soak food in.
* Sleeping and "puffed" up. The bird will always have his eyes closed when you walk by, or does not open his eyes as quickly as usual, so that you notice that he's sleeping a lot. He has a "puffy" appearance.
* He sits hunched on his perch or goes to the bottom of the cage and does not perch and his feathers appear fluffy, not smooth.
* He's quiet, not talking or calling.
* You may see runny droppings or lack of droppings in the cage bottom.
* You should always be aware if you notice nasal discharge or runny eyes and any vomiting should alert you although regurgitation is not always a sign of disease. Regurgitation can actually be a sign of "affection" or courtship behavior. However, vomiting is much messier in general and is not as solid as regurgitation. The bird will shake his head and therefore "spray" when he is vomitting, as opposed to a more solid pile deposited in the cage or on you.

In addition to illness, any trauma should be evaluated by a Vet, in addition to any abnormal swelling or growth on your bird. If your bird were to suffer a seizure, prompt Avian Veterinary care is required as it would be for any bleeding the bird suffers. In a female bird, reproductive issues can develop such as egg binding or continual egg laying, and these too require a call to your Vet.

Establish a relationship with your Vet so that if you need him in an emergency situation, he knows you, and your bird. He should have a well bird weight on file for your pet and that's the best place to start when examining a bird who is ill. If you believe you have a sick bird, do not wait. Prompt medical attention is a life saver. But is also a good idea to have a birdy first aid kit.

Your birdy first aid kit can be purchased complete with many items that you might need in case of an emergency. However, you can also put one together on your own. It should always include the following items:

Styptic Powder This should stop any bleeding from a broken blood feather, toenail, or injury. I also keep Liquid Band Aid on hand. I use Bandaid Brand as it has little smell. NO, THIS IS NOT THE BEST THING FOR A BIRD TO SMELL OR CHEW, but when your bird is in an emergency situation with bleeding, it does work and may be necessary when styptic powder won't stop the bleeding. If it's a smaller bleed, and you do not have styptic on hand, I recommend you try flour or cornstarch in an emergency.

Heat Pad or Lamp Heat is very medicinal to birds and a sick bird may not be able to maintain his own body temperature until you can reach medical care. Ideally, some type of tub or small cage works best. Be sure the bird still has access to food and water easily. MONITOR how you provide heat so that you do not overheat your bird.

Bandage Material This can be used to apply pressure to a wound until you reach medical care.

You might also want to have close by a TOWEL to be used if it is necessary to restrain the bird.

Something to sanitize a wound such as IODINE or BETADYNE.

And it's always recommended to have an adequate BIRD SAFE CARRIER ready, should you need to travel to your Vet's office, or to quickly get your bird out of your house should an environmental emergency develop.

Parrots Of The World

2007-04-04T02:00:00.003-07:00

People differ in their opinions of which parrots are more well-liked. Some look at the trendy parrots. Others consider the most prevalent in the pet stores. Some speak of which is more popular in this country or that, but of all the parrots of the world, the 5 most often dubbed popular are these.

1. Parakeets: The common Parakeet, Budgerigar to be more precise, is from Australia, and is often chosen as a pet for children or those who are beginners at bird care, partly due to its low price. Colorful little “Budgies” are hardy, require little space, and are much lower maintenance than larger birds. They are very intelligent, and although content to whistle or sing quietly, some do learn a few words. The name “Budgerigar” comes from the Australian Aboriginal name for the parrot. It means “good eating” but most “Budgie” owners would be horrified to hear you say so. Among the many parrots of the world, this is probably the least expensive in both initial and upkeep costs.

2. Cockatiels: Another Australian species, these medium sized parrots are known for sophisticated whistling and singing. While they can be taught to speak, many people find that the birds would rather whistle, and mimic random sounds, such as a ringing cell phone. A disadvantage to the cockatiel is that it uses a powdery substance to keep its wings water-proof, so owners often find their fingers dusty after handling the bird.

3. Sun Conures: Among the parrots of the world, Sun Conures are one of the brightest. Their plumage is red, orange, yellow, blue, and green. Sun Conures have been known to talk well, but beware! These parrots often screech and scream rather than talk. Their 12 inch length means they will require a smaller cage than larger parrots, but you and your family may require earplugs. If you train your Sunnie to lower its voice, you will enjoy its antics, as these parrots tend to be playful.

4. Parrotlets: Parrotlets, especially Pacific Parrotlets, are one of the smallest known parrots of the world – about 4 inches in length! They are also one of the most pernicious and spunky of all the parrots of the world. These tiny parrots learn to talk in a voice that sounds like that of a robot. This tiny voice, their size, and the fact that they do not scream, make them ideal for those who need a quiet companion.

5. African Greys: African Grey Parrots are probably the most intelligent of the parrots of the world, and indeed, of all birds. These parrots are not as colorful as some. They are mainly grey, as the name implies. They do have a bright red or maroon tail, though, depending on the subspecies. African Greys excel at mimicry, sometimes learning as many as 1-2000 words. They learn other sounds, too, and may quickly learn to imitate a jet engine if you walk through an airport with them. Among the many parrots of the world, these may be the most demanding. Just like your toddler, these birds get bored and want their owners to provide entertainment. If you are looking for an intellectual, loyal, and affectionate parrot, the African Grey is probably a good choice.

How Many Different Parrots Are There?

All told, parrots of the world number more than 350 different species and subspecies! Due to loss of habitat, climate changes, hunting, and the trade in live birds as pets, some parrots have become extinct. Others are listed as threatened, or are on the “endangered species” list.

Life Expectancy

People who purchase a parrot, purchase a commitment that is likely to continue throughout their lives and beyond. Most parrot owners are already 20 years old or more, and parrots themselves often have a life expectancy of more than 50 years. Some live to be nearly 100 years old. Added to that long life expectancy, many parrots of the world tend to bond with a single person. If that person breaks the bond in some way, the parrot may die.

How To Keep An African Grey Parrot Happy

2007-04-04T02:00:00.001-07:00

I’ve recently been handling lots of new clients in my parrot training business, coaching them through issues and spending a lot of time thinking about why parrots end up having problems when it hit me… African Grey Parrots are the 2nd most likely parrot to develop behavior problems; Second only to the Cockatoo.

But unlike Cockatoo’s who are in my opinion are not a good bird for the regular parrot owner to own because of it’s nature… African grey Parrots don’t share the Cockatoo’s same nature. So why do I have so many clients who’s African Grey’s have problems?

So I thought I’d share some of my thoughts on this topic with you…

There are a lot of things involved in keeping an African Grey Parrot happy that normal people would like to believe. Most of my clients think they can just walk into any pet shop that sells hand fed baby African Grey’s and think their bird will end up being perfect. Oh… if they only knew how much more was involved.

African Grey’s can tend to be a skittish type of parrot that spooks easily, gets stressed easily and develops lots of phobias and behavior issues. But there also the smartest breed of bird and through proper handling can be nothing short of amazing.

So even though I could sit here for weeks writing 743 articles on all the different things you need to do to make sure your African Grey Parrot is happy.

But instead I’m going to focus on just one thing… TOYS!

Now don’t go clicking off the page just yet because you think you know that your African Grey needs toys. I’m not trying to be condescending, and I know you already know that toys are important.

But do you know how often your African Grey’s toys should be rotated or changed? And better yet are you changing your birds toys frequently? Has your African Grey had a toy in his cage for longer than a month or two?

These are all important questions to ask, because African Grey Parrots are extremely intelligent and need to be placed in stimulating environments to remain happy.

This means they need their toys constantly rotated in and out of their cages. They need their toys hung from different parts of their cage.

You should be constantly searching for different shapes and textures of toy for your African grey to interact with. Toys that are chewable, destructible, touch to chew, easy to chew etc.

The key to a great stimulating environment boils down to rotating your African Grey’s toys at least ever 2 weeks. And if you see a toy isn’t being touched or destroyed first see if changing up it’s placement in the cage works… often that’s enough to get the bird to start playing with it.

If rotating the toys location doesn’t work, and you still don’t see the toy getting destroyed, than you should give up on that toy, remove it from his cage and replace with something different.

If you don’t… you risk the chance of an otherwise intelligent creature getting manic and bored and a bit psycho on you in the near future.

How To Start Building A Bird House

2007-04-04T01:59:00.000-07:00

If you enjoy spending time around birds then you may want to build a birdhouse or two. Building a birdhouse is a great way to become a companion of birds and add some attractiveness to your landscaping as well.

Birdhouses are fun to build and they are not expensive at all. You will want to construct a birdhouse that is easy to clean. It should be sturdy, cool, and rainproof as well. Because it is your birdhouse you can use your imagination and build one or more any way that you want. This could include different sizes, shapes, and colors.

Stay away from using metal to build your birdhouse. Metal can become very hot when the sun is beating down on it. Wood is the best material to build it from. You want the roof to have enough pitch to shed water. By giving it at least 3 inches of overhang you will keep water out of the entrance.

You should add several holes near the top of the birdhouse for ventilation especially on hot days. The house should be constructed with screws to make it easy to take apart when you clean it. On the inside you want the walls to have grooves to help baby birds be able to climb to the opening of the house.

When facing the opening keep in mind which direction the wind normally blows. To help keep it cooler place it in an area that does not get as much sunshine. If your birdhouse is going to be in direct sunlight painting it white will help reflect the sun.

Otherwise you can use lighter colors or whatever you feel blends into the surroundings more naturally.One other thing to consider is predators such as squirrels or cats. When placing a birdhouse you want to keep it away from the jumping range of these animals. You can do this by suspending it suspended from wires. Mounting the house on iron poles or wooden poles with sheet metal to guard it will help protect birds as well.

Birds Cages - How To Choose The Right One

2007-04-04T01:55:00.000-07:00

So you're faced with the hard decision of choosing a bird cage for your bird? Well, there are multiple things to think about, but this article will discuss the 3 most important issues involved in that decision. If you abide by the guidelines discussed below, you'll find a great cage at a great price that you're truly happy with. There's a lot to think about - not just the dimensions of the cage and the spacing between the bars. However, that is a great place to start, so let us cover that first in this article.

Choosing the right size cage & also making sure the bar spacing is safe

This is the very first issue you need to consider when shopping for bird cages. You can't even look at the other details or features of a cage until you've determined it's the right size of cage and has the right bar spacing. As a general rule of thumb; the bigger the the cage is the better, as long as the bar spacing's not too wide. At our web store, we separate birds into 3 categories; small birds, medium birds, & large birds. These categories slightly overlap because some birds fit into the high end & the low end of 2 different categories. For example, Lovebirds fit into the small birds category, but they also fit into the medium birds category.

For your education, let us quickly give you the minimum dimensions & maximum bar spacing measurements for most species of birds:

Small birds (i.e. Finches, Canaries, and Parakeets) should be in a cage that is no smaller than 18"(W) x 18"(D) x 22"(H) and they should not have bar spacing that's wider than 1/2".

Slightly larger small birds (i.e. Cockatiels, Lovebirds, and smaller types of Conures) shouldn't be in a cage smaller than 20"(W) x 18"(D) x 24"(H) and they're bar spacing shouldn't be wider than 3/4".

Medium birds (i.e. most Conures, Timnehs, and smaller Amazons) should have a cage that's at least these dimensions; 22"(W) x 20"(D) x 28"(H) and should have bar spacing no wider than 1".

Large birds (i.e. Congo African Greys, most Amazons, smaller Cockatoos) should have a parrot cage that is at least 32" x 24"(D) x 30"(H) & the bar spacing should be no wider than 1".

The biggest of the big birds (i.e. large Macaws, large Cockatoos, Toucans, and Hyacinth) should be in a cage no littler than 38"(W) x 30"(D) x 48"(H) & they can get away with spacing that's up to 1-1/2" wide. Most large parrot cages feature 1" bar spacing & that is just fine.

If your species of bird isn't named above, just find a species above that's similar in size to your bird & follow the dimension & bar spacing guidelines shown.

Choosing a good quality cage & not spending more than you have to

This is another hard aspect to face. If you have owned a generic bird cage before, you know you do not want to go through that again. The majority of first time cage buyers get a very cheap, generic cage, but they usually don't make that mistake twice. Some of the top brand names around are Kings, Avian Adventures, Invision Cages, Animal Environments, California Cages, Cages By Design, Liberty Cages, Visionary Acrylic Cages, & HQ Cages. At our web store we offer what we consider to be the very best 3 brand names available, but we have heard good and bad about all of them. The reason we offer the cages we offer is for the following 3 solid reasons;

1. The manufacturer's stand behind their cages & warranties,

2. The materials used are truly tested safe for birds (most manufacturers do not do this), and

3. We've offered or seen every brand name listed & have decided what ones we think are the most solid. Most cages offered by the brand names listed above are within approximately the same price range, so you just have to look around & see what fits you budget & your bird's specific needs. A great place to do research is within online bird forums & bird discussion boards. You can talk with other bird owners who've tried the brand name you're considering & they will gladly offer feedback on the cage that you are looking at. We do offer a bird lover's forum & the website address is listed in my biography at the bottom of this article. I urge you to visit our forum and others on the web as well, they provide great insight into what cages would work best for you & your bird.

How to choose the best retailer to buy from

This is the third and final part of this article, but it's only listed last because of how important the 2 factors listed before it are. This too is a very important part f your decision making process. If you can find a reputable store front in your region that offers top brand name cages at decent prices then that may be a good place to start. However, you will probably find that most pet supply store fronts that are offline are either extremely high priced, or they do not have any true parrot cages at all - they strictly offer small economy boxed cages that aren't large enough for the smallest of birds. This is because local store fronts have a very tough time competing with the internet retailers. Local store fronts have multiple overhead costs that need be buried into their product prices, and online stores do not have much overhead at all. So once you look locally, you'll most likely be on the web cage shopping. Now that you are online, how do you decide who you can trust? That's a great question, and not an easy one to answer. There are a few really good indicators that you can use to make a good judgment on who the trustworthy web stores are; One of the ways is something we previously discussed; head to the bird forums - if other people had a pleasant experience with an online store, you're likely to as well. I also recommend checking the sites you visit for positive customer testimonials. Web sites that do not post positive customer feedback they've received, probably haven't received any positive feedback. If you had one single customer contact you to tell you how great of an experience they had, wouldn't you place that testimonial on your web store? The last way to help determine whether a business is solid or not is to make sure they take all major credit cards, and not strictly PayPal. A site that takes all major credit cards strictly through PayPal is a red flag in my opinion. You may be wondering why on earth that's a red flag, well consider this; if a web store takes all major credit cards and the credit card companies receive too many complaints from their customers, they can actually lose their credit card processing account. That's right, the credit card processing company will actually pull their account & not let them take credit cards anymore. This then forces that online retailer to strictly offer PayPal or Google Checkout as their payment method. All internet retailers should take all major credit cards, and if they do not, it may be because they have lost their credit card processing account because of excessive customer complaints. I'm not saying that a web store shouldn't accept PayPal as a payment method, they should, but they should also be taking credit cards directly through the store's shopping cart as well.

Well, we have now covered what I consider the big 3 issues to consider when choosing a cage for your new bird. Again, there are many other factors, but these are the most important in my opinion, and if you follow these guidelines you will be very pleased with the decision you make. Plus, your bird will be proud of the decision you make on his behalf!

Complete Cat Training - Is Your Cat Not Using The Litter Box

2007-03-24T03:14:00.004-07:00

Cat training is more about learning why your cat does what he does. Did you know that cats require privacy when going the bathroom? If you have a litter box kept in a very commonly used area, he probably won't use it. But your carpet or somewhere else in the house may be used instead! Cats in general want a quiet, secluded area, away from family members and other animals. The importance of your cat toileting regularly cannot be over-emphasized.

Sometimes owners do not provide their cats with private & clean litter boxes, plenty of water or the ability to go outside. This can quickly lead to urinary tract disease which is very common in cats and often very debilitating. In this disease, large crystals form in your cat’s bladder, which can then flow through your cat’s urethra (the tube linking the bladder to the outside world) and they often become lodged and stuck! This obstruction of pee then causes a cat to become very ill and very sore. Then a visit to a veterinarian is required.

The key to preventing this problem is to encourage your cat to drink more which will make him go more! This helps prevent the formation of the crystals in the bladder in the first place! Ensure that you have a couple of full water bowls for your cat around the house as well as outside. Your cat should always have an unlimited supply of water.

Part of your cat training, having your cat go in his litter box, requires privacy and security so that he'll feel secure. In general, there should be more than one litter box in your household. In fact, the generally accepted formula for the best number of litter boxes for your household is, one per cat you own, plus one. So, if you have 2 cats, you should have 3 litter boxes around the house, while if you only have one cat, have 2 litter boxes – and so on.

Just as important is that you use a good absorb able litter that your cat likes and that you regularly replace this litter once every 2 – 3 days (rather than once a week!). The cleaner the litter, the more your cat will want go in it and the easier time you'll have training your cat. When placing the litter boxes around the house, make sure you don’t leave a litter tray in a corner, or anywhere where your cat may feel trapped.

The key to avoiding your cat developing urinary tract problems and having problems training your cat, is to make sure the experience as stress free for your cat as possible. By providing unlimited water, allowing some outdoors access and maintaining clean litter boxes in private areas of your house you will be providing your cat with an environment where he'll want to go in the litter box.

Remember To Bring These When Bringing Your Cat On A Trip

2007-03-24T03:14:00.003-07:00

Can’t leave your dear pet cat behind when going on a trip? Bear in mind that there are a lot of things you have to bring if you decide to bring your cat along, and here are some necessary and important items you should remember to bring that will make life easier for you on your journey.

1. Leash, Harness and Identification tags. You will definitely have to let your cat out of its traveling cage for some fresh air, and to ensure that it does not run away while you are going to the restroom or getting some food, put it on its leash, with its tags on. Regardless of its struggles to get free, hold on tight and put the leash on. If it does get away from your grip, make sure that the length of the leash is the farthest it goes. To be safe, leash it before leaving the safety of the vehicle.

His harness must always be locked secure, and his identification tags should not be removed, especially when you let it leave its crate. An ideal leash is extendable and reels up to ten to fifteen feet. These are usually small and light and therefore your cat will have plenty of freedom and yet you are able to control it.

2. Pack its food and water for a quick bite. Therefore, you can always whip up some food for your cat anytime, anywhere. Hard cat food is advisable, and prior to the trip, get your cat to be used to the food, as so to simplify the feeding process while traveling. If you must feed your cat moist food, a can opener, scoop or fork are to be added onto the checklist, so you can still feed your cat its meals.

One important thing you should never forget is fresh water. Anytime your cat is thirsty, you would have a bottle ready for it to quench its thirst. Traveling is tiring for your pet as well, and give it enough water to make sure that it does not dehydrate. Do not neglect your pet, as you wouldn’t want a sick and weak pet when you arrive at your destination.

3. Always put your cat in a carrier or crate. If you’re flying to your destination, check that your carrier is approved by the airline. Also, be very sure that the crate is made out of high impact plastic, or other material, and is very sturdy. The ideal size of crate for your cat should be a crate that allows your cat to stand in it and turn its body around. Too large a crate may not be good as well, unless you plan to travel long distance by car, then it would be more suitable. Make sure there is enough space to have a litter box in it as well, especially if you cannot stop to let your cat out to answer nature’s call.

Siamese - A Delightful, Demanding, Protective Pet

2007-03-24T03:14:00.001-07:00

When you say Siamese cat, most people think of the short-hair seal points, which have a creamy white slender body, brown-black ears, nose and tail. But, there are several variations of the breed as well as crossbreds like the Himalayans, which are a cross of Siamese and Persians. The blue point has a bluish-white body with slate blue points. The chocolate point has more mocha colored points and the flame point has apricot ears, nose and tail. The body of a pure-bred Siamese is sleek and features a triangular head, large ears, and pointed features. Siamese are one of the oldest and most well known breeds. They received their name when they were exported from Thailand in the late 1800’s. At the time, Thailand was Siam.

My relationship with Siamese began when I was one. My mother had me outdoors in a playpen. She was in the house when a distant uncle stopped by. Seeing me for the first time, he ran to my playpen with outstretched arms, only to be viciously attached by Josie, our Seal Point Siamese, who had been guarding me from underneath the playpen. Today, I share my house with several cats. Lucky, is a flame point Siamese mix I rescued from a high traffic area. He pretty much ignores the other cats and follows me everywhere. If I try to restrict him from coming in a room where I’m working, he stands on his back legs and beats on the door and yowls. He will keep this up for over 30 minutes. Every night since I first found him, he sleeps next to my head or stands guard like a sentry. If someone raises their voice to me, lucky will circle in front of me, raise his back and begin “yowling” (loud angry meows) at the person. I’ve been bit twice by a cat. Both times, it was peeling Lucky off a dog that had come too close to me. Fearlessly, Lucky launched an attack. Since he cannot see well, he did not know I had grabbed him. Even though Lucky is a mix-breed cat, his personality is similar to a purebred.

Siamese have personalities that are quiet unique. They want to be your best friend and will walk through fire to be near their guardian. They do not tolerate being alone well. They like to be near their guardian all the time, they are smart and like to play fetch, they can open doors and closets that allude other cats, they love to lay on your lap and hang out near the bathtub when your bathing. Siamese are extremely loyal, affectionate, and smart. They can be trained to travel well, they can be fearless, and they have a long lifespan of 18-20 years. They usually do not like dogs.

If you are thinking about getting a Siamese, you may want to read about them and see if you can volunteer time at a breed rescue site. Plan on keeping your Siamese as an indoor pet since most are cross-eyed and do not see well. If you adopt or purchase a Siamese, expect a cat that demands attention, is highly vocal, and smart. If you want a cat, because you think a cat is low maintenance, you may not want a Siamese. Some people bring their Siamese to a pet shelter because they can not tolerate their demanding nature or vocal qualities. However, if you are the type of person who would love a true companion, but can’t have or do not want a dog, a Siamese can be an ideal match. In addition to their crazy antics, and affectionate nature, you may be delightfully surprised at their constant loyalty and protective qualities.

Feline Diabetes - Symptoms and Treatment of Feline Diabetes

2007-03-24T03:13:00.003-07:00

People know all too well the dangerous of eating food that is high in fats and sugars. This often leads to diabetes, which will then increase the chances of the patient suffering from high blood pressure and heart disease. The same thing can also happen with cats and it called feline diabetes.

Feline diabetes unlike some other illnesses may happen at any age. There are three types. The type 1 happens when the cat is unable to produce the right amount of insulin. Type 2 occurs when the body becomes resistant to it. The third is due to the side effects of the drugs that are given to treat either of the two.

Indications that a cat may have feline diabetes includes abnormal breathing, dehydration, loss of appetite and a messed up coat. This is because cats normally clean up and groom without any help, which is never seen with dogs. Veterinarians will be able to confirm this assumption after getting a blood and urine sample to check on the sugar levels.

There are 5 ways to treat feline diabetes. These include a change in the diet, insulin injections, medication, food supplements and monitoring the sugar and insulin levels.

Ideally, this should be food that is low in carbohydrates. The only time that the other four mentioned are used is when this problem has been going on for many years and a change in lifestyle will not show any significant improvements.

The most challenging of the four mentioned is administering insulin into the cat. Before leaving the clinic, the doctor will teach the owner how to do it since the wrong way of doing it could injure the pet.

There are different ways of doing this. A confident owner will hold the cat in one hand with the syringe in the other. Those who are frightful will need the help of another individual to make sure it stays still. Some give the cat a treat for behaving the entire time this is being injected.

There is no standard insulin dosage. The owner will have to go to the clinic regularly during the first month to determine how much should be given and how often. This may change later on so the cat will have to be examined again after 6 months.

Medication and supplements can be done orally or mixed with the cat's diet. Placing strips in the litter box can obtain urine samples to check on the insulin and sugar levels. This is much better than sticking a needle into the cat once a week. Some have even written down the food intake in a diary so this can also be checked by the doctor.

The one thing that separates this illness between humans and cats is the fact that surgery is not considered to be an option. This is expensive and the process of looking for a donor is very difficult.

There is no cure for feline diabetes. The best doctors and owners can do is control it using the different methods currently available. This should also continue even if things are normal because changes in the diet may once again put the cat at risk.

Feline Aids - Should You Vaccinate?

2007-03-24T03:13:00.001-07:00

Approximately 12% of all cats in the United States have been exposed to Feline Aids (FIV). Unlike aids in humans, most cats with FIV can live many years without health issues. Eventually, secondary conditions like viral infections, diabetes or kidney disease can affect a cat with aids and attack the immune system. The cat infected with FIV that develops a secondary condition, may not be able to fight their illness, so FIV can be the major cause of death.

There is some debate as to how Feline Aids is passed from cat to cat. Most veterinarians agree it’s passed through blood such as cat bites or it can be passed from a pregnant female to her offspring during gestation (pregnancy). Some veterinarians believe FIV is also contracted through mutual grooming.

In 2002 Fort Dodge Animal Health released a vaccine designed to prevent a healthy cat from acquiring Feline Aids. The drug is controversial for several reasons.

1.There are at least five known strains of FIV. The drug does not protect against all strains. Cat guardians may feel secure that there pet is protected, but in fact, the pet is only protected from certain strains of the disease.

2.Once you vaccinate a cat for FIV, it will always test positive for FIV. This means that a veterinarian can not tell the difference between a healthy cat vaccinated for FIV and a cat infected with FIV. If your healthy cat was vaccinated to protect against FIV, and later is infected with FIV and becomes ill, it is impossible for a veterinarian to know if your cat is infected with another strain of the illness. This makes treatment challenging.

3.The FIV vaccine is an “adjunctive” medicine. One of the common side effects of “adjunctive” medicine is the growth of tumors.

4.Lastly, the FIV vaccine has a success rate of 82%. This means that one out of five cats exposed to FIV will contract the disease, even if they were vaccinated with the drug.

Here are a few things you may want to keep in mind. If you have an indoor cat and it’s not exposed to other cats, it can catch viral diseases such as Leukemia, but it cannot contract Feline Aids. There is no need to vaccinate an indoor cat against FIV. If you have a cat that spends time outdoors, make sure it’s spayed or neutered before sexual maturity (approximately six months). This is the first line of defense. Your cat will be far less likely to be involved in a cat fight. This greatly reduces the chance of a bite, or blood-related injury with an infected cat. If you decide to vaccinate your outdoor cat, make sure it also has a microchip and collar that identifies you as the owner.

If your cat was ever picked up as a stray, and the shelter could not easily find the owner/guardian, your cat would be euthanized quickly since it would test positive for FIV. If your cat contracts FIV, this does not mean a mandatory death sentence. Most indoor cats with FIV can live a long and reasonably healthy life. Lastly, be assured—there are no known incidence of Feline Aids effecting humans or dogs.

There are a lot of debates regarding cat training. Can cats be trained or if they should be trained? With over more than 500 million domestic cats in

2007-03-24T03:12:00.002-07:00

House training is one of those issues that every cat owner must grapple with. In most cases house training is the first major milestone in the relationship between owner and cat, and it can sometimes be difficult and confusing for owner and cat alike.

Before your new kitty arrives to your home, you should decide how you are going to housetrain her/her.

When house training a cat or a kitty,it is important to pay close attention to the signals the cat is sending. It is also important to be consistent when it comes to feeding times, and to provide the cat with ready access to the toilet area you establish on a regular basis.

It is important as well to never try to rush the process of house training. While some cats are naturally easier to train, most kitties and adult cats will experience at least one or two slip ups during the house training process. When these accidents occur, it is important to not get mad and punish the cat. Accidents during house training usually mean that the owner is trying to move too fast, or that the cat has been left alone for too long. In this case, it is best to just take a step back and start the process again.

One problem many cat owners overlook when house training cat is that of boredom. Boredom is actually the root cause of many behavior problems in cats, including howling and other destructive behaviors. Boredom can also be the root cause of problems with house training.

To prevent the cat from becoming bored when you are away from home, be sure to provide him with lots of different kinds of toys, as well as a safe and secure place to sleep. In addition, a vigorous period of play time can help the cat sleep while you are away

Complete Cat Training - Every Possible Cat Training Problem You Can Think Of Solved

2007-03-24T03:12:00.001-07:00

There are a lot of debates regarding cat training. Can cats be trained or if they should be trained? With over more than 500 million domestic cats in the world, having a home where you and your cat(s) can live happily does require some training. Without boundaries for our feline companion, we can't enjoy their company.

Having a better understanding of felines, both in terms of body and mind is a good starting point to successful training.

A cats tail is one of the ways they communicate.

If your cat is near you, and her tail is quivering, this is the greatest expression of love your cat can give you. If her tail starts thrashing, her mood has changed --- Time to distance yourself from her.

Cats wag their tails when it is in a stage of conflict. The cat wants to do two things at once, but each impulse blocks the other. For example: If your cat is in the doorway wanting to go outside, and you open the door to find it raining, the cat's tail will wag because of internal conflict. The cat wants to go outside, but doesn't want to go into the rain. Once the cat makes a decision and either returns to the house or leaves into the rain, the tail will immediately stop wagging.

Cats rub up against other cats, and people, in an attempt to "mark" them with their scent glands. They most often use the scent glands between their eye and ear (near the temple area) or their scent glands near the base of their tail.

If a cat is angry it will twitch the end of its tail.

A tail held high in the air means your cat is happy, whereas a tail pointing down will usually indicate it is not happy.

If you encounter a surprised cat, or one that is in fear, the hair on its back may become raised, along with its tail.

All these “signals” give owners important clues when training their cats. If a cat is twitching her tail, she's not receptive to you or what you are trying to teach her. Very much like children. Part of cat training is knowing when to train.

Complete Cat Training - Why Do Cats Get So Rough

2007-03-24T03:00:00.000-07:00

Cat training is all about redirecting our cats natural instincts. This is where the great debate comes into play. Can a cat be trained to change what comes naturally? First we need to understand just what “natural” means to a cat.

There are three basic hunting traits in cats: stalking, chasing and pouncing. First, the cat watches his prey, then waits, chases and pounces. In the wild, cats have plenty of chances to hunt, but we really don't want our house pets to chance and pounce on our feet or even our faces if we're laying down.

Pouncing on peoples faces can be in response to curiosity over rapid eye movement during REM sleep.They're not doing it hurt us. It's movement that they respond to.

Cats scratch and mark because they are territorial. Scratching also satisfies the cats physical need to discard old nail sheaths and exercise its muscles.

A cat even be territorial about it's favorite chair. This is especially true when there is more than one cat in the house. Even if they get along most of the time, having their favorite chair to themselves can cause conflict. Cats' main form of play involves biting and scratching in "winner takes all" battles, whether with another cat, a toy mouse, or your hand. Sometimes biting starts when your cat is just being petted.

While some cats love to be petted for hours on end, sometimes a cat will become over-stimulated for one reason or another, and will you to stop. Your cat will signal his feelings with narrowed eyes, ears pulled back and then the inevitable tail-lashing. This is often lead to the cat biting when all the other warnings are ignored. The rule here is to watch the cat's signals and stop when it gets too much for your cat.

Understanding all these behaviors is an important part of cat training. In fact it's the foundation.

Nebraska highlights: for glimpses of life on the Great Plains, blaze a trail across the Cornhusker State

2007-03-06T01:14:00.000-08:00

Stretching 387 miles from its Missouri River border on the east to the western panhandle, the country's 15th largest state offers a surprising variety of tourist treats as well as miles and miles of undulating farmland that spreads to the horizons.

Follow in the footsteps of great explorers with a visit to Fort Atkinson State Historical Park, nine miles north of Omaha, near the Nebraska-Iowa state line. Here, Meriwether Lewis and William Clark set up camp on July 30, 1804. Their first official powwow with Native Americans (members of the Oto and Missouri Indian tribes) took place a few days later--15 years before the site they recommended became a federal fort in 1819. Currently under reconstruction, Fort Atkinson today encompasses Lewis and Clark's original council site and

parts of the north, south, and west barracks as well as an interpretive center. For general information and this summer's living history re-enactment schedules, call (800) 826-PARK.

Just south of Fort Atkinson, Nebraska's largest city (with a population of just under 400,000)--Omaha--offers visitors a variety of cultural experiences, including the Joslyn Memorial Art Museum, the Western Heritage Museum, and the Orpheum Fine Arts Theater. But perhaps the city's premier attraction is the Henry Doorly Zoo, recognized as one of the country's leading zoological parks. In addition to its well-deserved reputation as home to the world's largest indoor rainforest and North America's largest complex for large cats, the zoo will house the world's largest indoor environment for desert wildlife when it opens its new Desert Dome in April. For further information, call (402) 733-8401 or visit www.omaha zoo.com.

Affiliated with the Omaha zoo is the Lee G. Simmons Conservation Park & Wildlife Safari, a "drive-through wildlife adventure" nestled in the Platte River hill country southwest of the city, halfway between Omaha and Lincoln. Here, a four-mile car trail winds through prairies and wetlands where bison, elk, pronghorn, and deer roam freely. Off the beaten track, hikers crossing a bridge to Wolf Canyon may encounter not only a pack of gray wolves but also wild turkeys. Wetlands that recreate the native habitat of central Platte Valley's meadows shelter sandhill cranes and pelicans. The park (402-994-WILD) is open daily from April through October.

While in the area, a side trip to Schramm Park State Recreation Area (the state's oldest) and its Ak-Sar-Ben Aquarium will net you a glimpse at the country's largest catfish (a 95-pounder) in captivity. Paddlefish, sturgeon, and snapping turtles round out aquatic displays found in 12 tanks filled with 32 of Nebraska's fish species. A terrarium houses 19 native species of reptiles and amphibians. The recreation area surrounding the aquarium features nature trails, breathtaking bluff-top views of the Platte River, and a fish hatchery museum housing 12 dioramas that trace the state's fish management history from prehistoric to modern times. For information, call (402) 332-3901.

Lincoln, the state capital, has three outstanding museums--the Museum of Nebraska History, Lincoln Children's Museum, and University of Nebraska State Museum. Tours of the Capitol and Governor's Mansion are available.

No one visiting Nebraska in late winter or early spring should pass up the opportunity to witness the annual migration of 90 percent (some 500,000) of the world's sandhill cranes during their five-week layover in the south-central Platte River valley. The annual gathering begins around mid-February as thousands of the migratory waterfowl arrive from wintering locations in Texas, New Mexico, and northern Mexico en route to their summer breeding grounds in Canada and Alaska. Prime viewing locations along I-30 stretch from Wood River (where the Crane Meadows Nature Center is located) to the National Audubon Society's Rowe Sanctuary in Gibbon to Fort Kearny State Recreation Area's Hike-Bike Bridge in Kearney. Additionally, a series of five public viewing decks dot the river road area. Dusk and dawn offer the best opportunities for seeing wave upon wave of the water birds as flocks rise or return to the banks of the Platte.

A photographer's dream of a different sort beckons visitors to nearby Comstock (northwest of the Platte River), where the largest standing collection of windmills creates dancing silhouettes against prairie skies. Henry Nuxoll's 2nd Wind Ranch (www.windmillenter prises.net) also is the site of a June festival featuring country music and hot air balloon and parachuting demonstrations, capped off by sunset fireworks.

Cats & traps

2007-03-06T01:13:00.000-08:00

They are called "work-ups"-a deceptively simple term that in two words says the world's most powerful Navy is getting ready for a little practice. The 100,000-ton carrier, the USS Abraham Lincoln, containing 5,500 sailors and 80-plus aircraft, would rendezvous with the rest of its fiercesome battle group off the California coast to work out tie kinks before its crew could consider themselves ready to do what they do: go to war.

This work-up would be different, however-at least, from my point of view, because I would be privileged to be part of the action.

It was with the grace of a train wreck that we slammed onto the deck of the Lincoln as it steamed off the southern coast of California last November. An arrested landing is the fitting punctuation to an hour-long flight in the carrier on-board delivery (COD)that windowless plane on which everything from mail to fresh meat is ferried from land. I supposed I was the latter.

There is no mistaking your arrival on an aircraft carrier. As the ramp on the COD drops open, your senses-previously deprived throughout the dim, droning flight-are immediately attacked by caustic jet exhaust that's being wafted by along with a hurricane soundtrack. Following the hunched-over line of "walking cargo" who were exiting the plane, I twisted past the business end of a shrieking Hornet that was taxing to the bow.

The nerve-dulling noise makes your skin and bones vibrate and arouses some primeval mechanism of self-preservation inside you. It widens your eyes and rattles your very fiber. Here, the human voice is useless for communication, and the multicolored-shirt deck crew practices a carefully choreographed dance in which every movement communicates something vital to the operation. For me, there is no other place on earth like a carrier deck during flight ops. It is pure heaven-with just a tiny bit of hell tossed in for flavor.

I was back on the boat at the invitation of VF-31. The Tomcatters, as they are known, fly the latest variant of the F-14: the "D." With its 27,000-pound-thrust afterburning engines, it is commonly called "the Super Tomcat" The purpose of my visit was to report on the expanding roles of the F-14 as a ground striker as it filled the vacuum left by the retirement of the Navy's last dedicated attack platform, the A-6 Intruder. The Lincoln battle group was beginning its composite training unit exercise (COMPTUEX) and I was to be treated to a full lineup of flight ops and related war-game drills.

After stowing my sea bag and spare camera gear in my stateroom, I made my way up to '"vultures' row," the observation deck high on the ship's island. Even above it all, the noise was awesome. The ship was in a hard left turn and listing to the right-sorry, starboard-a good 15 degrees. We were turning into the wind, and by the configuration of the deck, it was obvious the next event was about to be launched.

Typically, the daily flight plan describes a rhythm of events called "cyclic ops." Flight deck events (or "evolutions") consist of a launch and a recovery. Obviously, however, the first event of the day is usually only a launch, unless there is an inbound COD to recover.

Subsequent events always begin at the four catapults, or CATS, since the deck is fouled with outbound aircraft. Once that event is airborne and the deck has been cleared, the previous event's airplanes are recovered or "trapped." Often, these 11/4-hour cycles start before dawn and continue unabated until almost midnight It should be noted that there are no rotating shifts for flightdeck personnel. In other words, the person working CAT 1 for the first event is the same tired soul who works CAT 1 for the last event It makes for some very long days and nights.

Experimental infection of cats and dogs with West Nile virus - Research

2007-03-06T01:11:00.000-08:00

Domestic dogs and cats were infected by mosquito bite and evaluated as hosts for West Nile virus (WNV). Viremia of low magnitude and short duration developed in four dogs but they did not display signs of disease. Four cats became viremic, with peak titers ranging from [10.sup.3.0] to [10.sup.4.0] PFU/mL. Three of the cats showed mild, non-neurologic signs of disease. WNV was net isolated from saliva of either dogs or cats during the period of viremia. An additional group of four cats were exposed to WNV orally, through ingestion of infected mice. Two cats consumed an infected mouse on three consecutive days, and two cats ate a single infected mouse. Viremia developed in all of these cats with a magnitude and duration similar to that seen in cats infected by mosquito bite, but none of the four showed clinical signs. These results suggest that dogs and cats are readily infected by WNV. The high efficiency of oral transmission observed with cats suggests that infected prey animals may serve as an important source of infection to carnivores. Neither species is likely to function as an epidemiologically important amplifying host, although the peak viremia observed in cats may be high enough to infect mosquitoes at low efficiency.
The appearance of the West Nile virus (WNV) in New York in 1999 and the subsequent establishment and spread of the virus have aroused public anxiety about the potential of companion animals to become infected, show illness and die, and transmit WNV to other species, including humans. Little information is available concerning the susceptibility of dogs and cats to WNV infection. Approximately one third of a large sample of dogs from a WNV-endemic region of South Africa had neutralizing antibody to WNV, and viremia was detected in one of three dogs inoculated with a large dose of WNV (1). Recently, WNV was isolated from the brain of a cat with "neurologic disease" (2), but nothing is known about the natural history of WNV infection in this species. Most dogs and cats spend at least some time out of doors and thus risk exposure from hematophagous insect vectors. Also, as carnivores, they may be exposed to WNV through ingestion of infected small mammals and birds, which are known to have large quantities of WNV in blood and tissue during the course of infection (2,3). Since there are an estimated 68 million companion dogs and 73 million pet cats in the United States alone (4), evaluating their response to WNV infection, assessing their potential to serve as amplifying hosts for tiffs virus, and obtaining some estimate of the clinical consequences of infection are important concerns.

Four young adult female, crossbred hounds (Harlan, Indianapolis, IN) and eight adult, female domestic, crossbred cats (Liberty Laboratories, Waverly, NY) were used. All were purchased as specific pathogen-tree animals. Each cat was negative for antibodies to feline immunodeficiency virus and negative for feline leukemia virus antigen in serum. Animals were gang housed by species under animal biosafety level three conditions with ad libitum access to food and water. They were examined clinically by a veterinarian twice daily for the duration of the study but did not receive formal neurologic evaluations. Body temperature and general appearance were recorded twice daily from days -0.5 to 7 or 9 (day 0 being the day of infection). With few exceptions, blood was collected twice daily from days -1 (dogs) or 0 (cats) to 9, at 2 and 3 weeks postinfection, and at the time of euthanasia. For the animals exposed to WNV through mosquito bites, blood was collected into EDTA tubes for hematology once daily from days -1 (dogs) or 0 (cats) to 10, and on days 14 and 21. Hematologic parameters (erythrocyte and leukocyte counts, platelet counts, plus relative and absolute mononuclear and granulocyte counts) were evaluated by using a QBC-V analyzer (Clay-Adams, Parsippany, NJ). Saliva was collected from mosquito-inoculated animals once daily from days 0 to 7 by swabbing the oral cavity with a cotton swab premoistened with BA-1 medium (M-199 salts, 1% bovine serum albumin, 250 mg/L sodium bicarbonate, 100 U penicillin G/mL, 100 [micro]g/mL streptomycin, 1 [micro]g/mL amphotericin B in 50 mM Tris, pH 7.6). All animals were euthanized between days 22 and 50 after infection by pentobarbital overdose and necropsied; their carcasses were incinerated within the containment facility.

Hematologic and body temperature data were analyzed by repeated measures analysis of variance and compared to a baseline by using the differences of least squares means statistical test (Proc Mixed, SAS Statistical Software, SAS Institute, Cary, NC). Baseline values were obtained on day 0 (body temperature) or represent the mean of values obtained on days 0 and 21 (hematologic data

Cat Fleas

2006-12-30T01:44:00.003-08:00

There are more than 2,000 species of fleas around us. Out of these, the most common one is the cat flea, Ctenocephalides felis. The cat adult fleas, unlike many other fleas, remain on the host. Though it exists worldwide, it is most commonly found in the United States. Cat fleas are commonly found on both cats and dogs.

In order to reproduce, cat fleas needs fresh blood. They lay eggs at the rate of one egg per hour. Their life cycle consists of four stages of metamorphosis, namely egg, larval, pupa and adult. Depending on external environmental factors like temperature and humidity, this cycle lasts 30 to 75 days. The most common problem occurring due to flea bites is flea allergy dermatitis, the severity of which depends upon the sensitivity of the host. Pet owners in the United States spend millions of dollars each year on flea allergy remedies. Cat fleas often carry infection too, and are feared to be capable of carrying plague and typhus. They also serve as the intermediate host to the dog tapeworm, an intestinal parasite, which gets transmitted to the pest when the flea carrying the tapeworm cyst is ingested.

The only possible way to detect fleas is to observe the behavior of your pets. Early detection of the fleas enables you to control them and minimize the suffering that can be caused to you and your pets by allergies or more serious infections transmitted by them. The most important way to control the breeding of fleas is to take proper care of sanitation of your indoor and outdoor premises. Ensuring proper care of pets by washing and shampooing them regularly is also another important factor. There are varieties of shampoos available in the market for pets, which contain pesticides, and are helpful in eradication of fleas.

Only by being conscious of cleanliness can we rid ourselves of the annoyance and hazards spread by cat fleas: by preventing them from breeding in and around our homes and pets.

A Black Cat is Just a Cat

2006-12-30T01:44:00.001-08:00

When my old cat died, I decided to pick one out of the Humane Society. They had named the first cat I saw “Batman”, and I fell in love with him on sight.

But when I brought him home, I discovered he didn’t quite have the courage of the comic book hero. I made some mistakes which resulted in a month long struggle to coax him out of his hiding place to join the family.

I renamed him Bear, and he is wonderful cat, but my guests seem a little uncomfortable when he comes into the room. After all, he is completely black.

He is a black cat and some people are afraid of Black Cats…

The Black Cat in History

Historically, black cats have been associated with omens, bad luck and, well...evil.

The poor unfortunate kitties have been used in rituals, and were supposedly the "familiars" of witches. Anarchism has used the symbol of the black cat, as has Wicca, the modern day expression of Witchcraft. Superstition has associated bad luck with having a black cat cross your path.

All-in-all, the black cat has been getting some really bad press for centuries, and all of that is not easily overcome in just a few short lines of this article.

Scaredy Cat

A very highly sensitive cat, our new black Bear was far more scared of us than we were of him, and we made a number of mistakes in the first hour of his introduction that practically destroyed our chances for introducing him to our home.

The process of first finding Bear where he had hidden in the house and gradually coaxing him out of his hiding place to join the family was long and agonizing. It took over a month, and I had almost despaired that we would ever acclimate him.

Patience won out, though…

Superstition Dispelled

Since then, Bear has been rolling around on my lap enjoying his daily pettings, sleeping in my bed, yowling at the females he sees from his perch in the kitchen window and just generally bringing a lot of joy to our lives.

He is here to dispel the notion that a black cat means bad luck. He is one of the sweetest cats you'll ever meet, and there's absolutely *nothing* scary about him. And I can tell you for a fact that no bad luck is connected with Bear. He's crossed my path innumerable times, and so far I haven't experienced anything one might think of as "bad luck".

I have to say, though, that on Halloween night he seems to be scared of his own black shadow. But I try to keep him calmed down and happy to be where he is...in my lap purring as loud as he can!

How Can you Tell if Your Cat Really is a Maine Coon?

2006-12-30T01:42:00.000-08:00

The Maine Coon cat has been called “the king of the domestic cat world”. The breed is visually stunning with its beautiful long ruff, bushy “raccoon like” tail and large tufty paws. The Maine Coon is the largest domesticated cat and visitors to our house are shocked to discover our 2-year old male kitten has another 2-3 years to grow before he is classed as an adult. As well as the Maine Coon’s striking physical appearance, the breed has an inquisitive, friendly and lively personality.

I’ve had many people ask the question, “ I think my cat is at least part Maine Coon…how can I tell?”

This is how the Maine Coon Breeders and Fanciers Association (MCBFA) answer the question on their website:

“The Maine Coon is America’s native longhair cat; it evolved naturally in response to the New England climate. Your cat’s ancestors might be similar to the cats that founded the Maine Coon breed. However, it’s impossible to tell from just looking at your cat if it is related to the Maine Coon or any other breed. Because the Maine Coon is a natural breed and hasn’t been bred to the extremes, there are cats all over the world that resemble the Maine Coon. The only way to tell for sure if your cat is a Maine Coon is to look at the pedigree.”

Ok, that may not help much because most people do know when they have a pedigree Maine Coon because they have papers verifying the pedigree.

So, if you don’t have papers how can you tell if you have at least a part Maine Coon?

Firstly, these cats are not normal! They have distinctive personality traits and unique Maine Coon features. If your cat has some or all of the following, you can be sure you have a cat with dominant Maine Coon breeding:

Physical Features:

1. Head: Round in shape when viewed from the front, medium in width and longish in length. The muzzle is square and can look broad in more mature male cats.

2. Ears: Set high and well apart. They are large, and well tufted tapering to a point, in common with the Bobcat and the Lynx. The tufts on the ears are one of the classic signs of a Maine Coon.

3. Eyes: Large and wide set. Slightly oblique slanting to outer base of ear.

4. Body: Full maturation can take 4 to 5 years and allowances should be made when judging size of the cat. Overall, the body is muscular and broad chested. The body is well proportioned throughout, and there are no unusual “oddities” in relation to size proportion.

5. Legs and Feet: The legs are sturdy and substantial, and proportionate to the body. The paws are very large and well tufted. Tufts in between the toes are an essential feature for a Maine Coon. There are five toes on the front paws and four on the back.

6. Tail: This is the probably the most unmistakable feature of the Maine Coon. The tail is long and should run the length of the body when at least as long as the neck. Originally, when Maine Coons lived as farm cats, the tail would cover the whole body and act as a kind of furry sleeping bag in the winter. The fur is also thick and long. It has been said that the name “coon” comes from “racoon” because of the similarities of the tails of the two animals.

Cat Health Questions

2006-12-29T01:17:00.001-08:00

All cat owners around the world are worried about their cat’s health. Since one cannot communicate with the animal, cat owners usually ask each other questions regarding the cat’s health. If a cat continuously purrs for no apparent reason, one may get worried, and wonder what the cat is trying to say. Loving a pet is natural, but trying to completely understand the pet is not always possible.

Questions may pertain to various aspects of a cat’s existence. There could be queries and doubts about feeding, vaccinating, grooming, spaying and neutering. Further, an owner may be assailed with doubts about how to read pet food labels, details about micro chipping cats, flea control and prevention of illnesses. The list of questions is truly endless and every cat owner would identify with the challenges of coping with these tricky questions.

Asking questions can help cat owners understand behavioral patterns and signs. A pet owner may not be aware that the cat is experiencing psychological changes. Each cat has a different temperament. While some maybe sleepy, others are active. Providing the cat with a companion or playthings might prove helpful.

Questions may be related to food habits of the cat. While some may show signs of continuous hunger, others might refuse to eat. For a cat owner, it is difficult to comprehend cat behavior at all times. The easiest way to gather information is to note every question that arises from time to time and ask questions. There are cat owners’ groups in many towns and cities where cat lovers converge to discuss these questions and educate one another. There are many online web sites dedicated to a cat owner’s needs. And veterinarians are a great source of information for cat owners, as well.

The 30 second Guide to Grooming a Maine Coon Cat

2006-12-29T01:16:00.003-08:00

Maine Coons are a semi-longhaired breed and have a heavy thick coat. Frequent grooming is required to prevent the fur from matting and knotting.

Common places where knots can develop are around the front and back legs on the underside of the body.

Things you will need:

1. Mild cat shampoo
2. Empty bottle for mixing water with shampoo
3. Rinsing jug and/or shower spray
4. Steel comb
5. Fur brush
6. Clippers (“rounded” type)

A Maine Coon breeder shared with me her method for bathing her 7 Maine Coon cats!

Add part cat shampoo and warm water to an empty bottle (amounts according to directions on bottle) and mix thoroughly.

Run the bath, without your cat knowing it’s for him/her!

Gently lower your cat into a filled bath (2-3 inch depth of water approx), feet first and gently pour bath water over body with a jug.

Add shampoo/water mix on a section of the fur and lather steadily.

Be as flowing and speedy as you can without any sudden movements. Offer reassurance and praise throughout.

When fully lathered, rinse as thoroughly as you can. Again be gentle and try to avoid fast jets of water or too much splashing.

Place the cat in a large towel and dry as much excess water out the fur as quickly as possible.

Soon after, get the first brush onto the coat and continue to groom at regular intervals until the coat is dry. I have heard of some owners using hair dryers, although we have never used this method so can’t comment on its effectiveness.

Pay particular attention to the tail, and be careful not to catch the tailbone with the brush. This can be painful and can cause to discomfort if extra care is not taken.

TIP: You can wear gardening gloves if your Maine Coon has a tendency to scratch whilst he is being groomed. We don’t tend to wear these ourselves as Henry has been groomed since he was a kitten and is quite used to this routine. He also knows he will receive treats once the trauma is over!

Claw Clipping

If you do not feel confident with this, you may ask your vet to carry this out, or a professional groomer. However, if approached carefully, it can be done quickly and without discomfort to the cat.

The most important thing is not to cut too far down the claw into the “quick”. This looks like a pink pointed claw within the claw.

My advice when starting out with this is to just clip the points off the claws regularly, rather than leaving long periods between clipping.

The other thing to remember is not to cut “across” the claw. You must cut with the clippers facing down in the same direction as the claw is pointing.

Cat Health Problems

2006-12-29T01:16:00.001-08:00

All cat owners should be aware of the common health problems that their cat could face. Cat health problems can be detected through behavioral changes, symptoms and sounds. Common health problems include anemia, allergies, skin infections and tapeworms caused by fleas.

Flea collars are a popular accessory for solving the cat health problem of fleas, but their effects are still being debated. Some studies show they may also cause some irritation to the cat’s skin. Another cat health issue is ear mites. Ear mites are dark, waxy microscopic parasites, which itch and can be contracted by proximity to an untreated animal. If untreated, ear mites can cause deafness. Several treatments are available to fight this ailment.

Tapeworms, roundworms, hookworms, whipworms and coccidia are internal parasites commonly affecting cats. Symptoms vary from mild to severe diarrhea, weakness, depression, loss of appetite, weight loss, vomiting and a dull coat. A veterinarian can recommend de-worming medication based on a sample of the feces.

Toxoplasma gondii are small parasites, affecting humans with a weak immune system. These parasites can also affect a cat. Proper handling of food, and regular cleaning of litter boxes prevents the transmission of these parasites. Common symptoms include painful urination or blood in the urine.

Cats may contract upper respiratory infections causing sneezing, running nose, spotty eyes, fever and decreased appetite. Fatal if left untreated and highly contagious, prevention is the best approach. Feline infectious peritonitis is a lethal virus causing fever, lethargy, vomiting, diarrhea and loss of appetite. Blood tests can determine if there was exposure to the virus. There is no effective treatment and prevention using vaccines is the only hope.

Feline distemper is a contagious viral disease transmitted through contact with humans, infected cats, hair, paws and food bowls. Symptoms occur suddenly with vomiting, loss of appetite and diarrhea. Feline immunodeficiency virus, passed on by cat bites is fatal, causing chronic infections that don’t respond to medication, respiratory problems, loss of appetite, diarrhea and oral infections.

These are just a few common cat health problems. One must be attentive to the cat’s actions and behavioral changes at all times and work with veterinarians to overcome cat health concerns.

The Keys To Proper Care For Your Pet Cat

2006-12-28T01:15:00.000-08:00

Pet cats can bring joy, amusement, frustration, and unconditional love. There is certainly no denying that they brighten up your day, but do you really know how to best look after the cat in your life?

Why Cats Make Good Pets and the Most Common Pet Breeds

If you are looking for a pet that has its own mind, that is independent, but who is extremely loving at the same time, then a cat may be the perfect pet for you. They require fairly little maintenance compared to a dog, and they also provide plenty of love and affection – often following you around from room to room. Cats can be much more independent than dogs, but in both cases, both will return the affection you show them in spades.

When it comes to the large variety of breeds, you can choose from, some are definitely more common than others are and there are certain breeds that make better pets than others do. These include:

The Persian

The Persian cat is by far the most popular pet cat in America. Hardly anybody can resist its laid-back temperament and its extremely affectionate personality. Out of all of the different breeds, this one seems to form the strongest loyal bonds with its owners and despite their daily grooming needs they do make the best pets for many cat lovers.

The Maine Coon

The Maine Coon is a large cat and it has a really affectionate nature. They are extremely gentle and they love being around people. Whilst their coats are quite long, they do not require as much grooming as a Persian cat does. Overall, they are gentle giants in the cat world and they have remained the second most popular cat in America for years now.

The Exotic

This breed of cat is generally considered to be a shorthaired version of the Persian and cat lovers like them due to the fact that they are easier to groom. The breed looks particularly sweet and innocent and it is definitely a favorite amongst cat lovers.

So, those are the top three breeds within America and they are all extremely affectionate and loving. The main thing to keep in mind is that no matter which breed you decide upon, they all need some form of grooming and looking after.

Knowing the Grooming Requirements of Your Chosen Breed

All cats need some form of grooming no matter what breed you finally purchase. Obviously shorthaired cats will need less grooming than longhaired breeds so that could be a factor in your decision when purchasing your pet cat.

Longhaired breeds generally need to be groomed daily, though it is always a good idea to research your individual breed. For example, the Persian needs a lot of grooming and it definitely needs doing daily, whereas the Maine Coon, who is another breed with longer hair, needs less grooming. So, research your breed and ensure that you know what you are letting yourself in for.

Overall cats can make extremely good pets, you just have to do your research and ensure that you are purchasing the right breed for you. If you have small children living in the house, cats are pretty forgiving, but you should have a discussion with them about the fact that a cat is a live animal and could scratch or bite them if pushed too far.

Things To Prepare Before Bringing Your Pet Cat Home

2006-12-28T01:14:00.000-08:00

Purchasing a new pet cat can be a wonderful experience, yet, it can also be a little overwhelming and worrying, too, especially if you have other animals! So just how do you go about introducing your new pet to the rest of the household and do you really know the true needs of your cat in order to look after them properly?

Introducing Your New Pet into Your Home

There are a number of factors that you will need to take into account before you introduce your pet into your home. These include:

* When to introduce The Cat

While it may be extremely tempting to just bring the cat home and put it down onto the floor to roam around freely, if you have other pets it is an extremely bad idea! You simply cannot realistically expect your other animals to get on with this new arrival instantly. It takes time and if you do not introduce the cat into the home with plenty of time, you could face daily conflicts for a long period of time!

So just how is it possible to bring a new cat home and not introduce it to the rest of your pets? Well, the simplest way to do it is to put the cat into a separate room and give it a litter tray, food, water, a bed and plenty of toys to play with. Ensure that no other animal can get into the room but allow them to be able to sniff under the door. It is extremely likely that you will hear a lot of hissing and scratching as the animals sniff each other under the door, but that will fade in time.

* How to Introduce the Cat

As well as keeping the new cat in a separate room, it is a good idea to let the animals sniff each other indirectly. This basically means wiping the new cat with a towel and letting the other animals sniff it and vice versa. All the animals should, over time, get used to the new scent and they will accept it as normal.

Another way is to switch the cat’s rooms every now and again. Let the new cat into the main house and put the other animals into the cat’s safety room in order to let them sniff around. Once you have done this a few times, you can then step it up by allowing the animals to sniff and see each other through a safety gate. Monitor their behavior and obviously remove the animals from each other if they get too nasty with each other. Over a period of time of doing this, you will notice an improvement and eventually you will be able to introduce them into the main house altogether without many problems.

Bringing a new cat home is exciting and it can be very rewarding also. However, you really do need to take certain precautions if you already have other pets. If you follow the instructions above, you should be able to introduce your new pet into your home without much hassle. It just takes time and patience but you will get there if you persevere!

9 Reasons for Adopting a Senior Cat – and 6 Reasons for Not Adopting a Kitten

2006-12-28T01:13:00.000-08:00

He leaped out of the cage and grabbed me around the shoulders. My shock quickly turned into amazement. He hadn't sunk his claws into me! My thought was, "This cat definitely knows good manners. Somebody has worked with him." I looked at the ticket on the cage door. It read, "Morgan, male, age 14."

Age 14? I hesitated. That was pretty old. I put him back in the cage and walked around the shelter, looking the other cats over. There were many nice ones, as well as a few kittens.

But my mind kept going back to Morgan, and I realized that, in fact, I had bonded with him. Fourteen years notwithstanding, we had become buddies.

THE PLIGHT OF THE SENIOR CAT

One of the saddest things you'll see in Animal Shelters is the number of older cats waiting for adoption. By and large, people are looking for kittens.

The older cats languish, many from happy homes where they were loved and cared for, but brought into the shelter for some reason known only to the owner and the cat.

Many people, who don't like older cats, like kittens. Kittens are cute, cuddly, and funny. They make pleasing pets – but lose their "playfulness" when they grow up, and with it the "love" of their owners.

Somebody said that the mark of a true cat lover is to desire to have grown cats over kittens.

A KITTEN ISN'T ALWAYS WHERE IT'S AT

Many people don't think through the consequences of adopting a kitten, or of taking one or two kittens from the litter a friend is trying to get rid of, or bringing into your home one left on your doorstep.

Here are a few questions you should ask yourself before you adopt a kitten:

1. Taking care of themselves. Kittens are pretty marginal in being able to take care of themselves, especially when it comes to using a litter box. Do you have time to house train your kitten?

2. Young children. Do you have young children in the house? A child of 2 or 3 may inadvertently kill a kitten. Older children need to be taught how to play with them and need to be closely supervised.

3. Other pets. Are you bringing a kitten home to a household with other, older pets? Make certain you have the time to spend introducing and acclimating your pets to the kitten (and vice versa)

4. House dangers. Is there anything dangerous in your house that could harm a kitten? If you are not home during the day, have you made sure your kitten is safe while unsupervised?

5. Adoptions other than from an animal shelter. .If you are adopting a kitten from a friend, or taking one from a mother cat's litter, are you prepared to neuter or spay the kitten and give her the vaccinations she needs?

6. Vaccinations. A kitten receives all of her vaccinations over a period of time. You should make sure you have the time and interest to get her the full regimen.

Cat health insurance: The facts few people know.

2006-12-27T02:20:00.003-08:00

Few people know this, but pet insurance has actually been around for about 15-20 years.

The number of pet owners who have Pet Insurance is growing rapidly every year - especially since the plans have been getting better over the years.

Until pet insurance came along, preventative and routine care, as well as emergencies and diseases were all paid for by the pet owner - which isn't like most medical, surgical, dental, and pharmacy cases in human medicine.

Pet health policies are closely related to human insurance policies.

For example - there are annual premiums, deductibles, and different coverage plans based on what you, the pet owner chooses.

As far as the plans - they are based on your cat's age, breed, whether or not your cat goes outdoors or is strictly indoors, whether your cat is spayed/neutered, and pre-existing conditions also are considered.

So a young, healthy cat who is spayed/neutered will typically have the lowest rates.

Also note, some companies will refuse cats with current health conditions or a terminal disease - while others will allow coverage if your cat's condition is stable or controlled.

Currently, the overall average for annual deductibles is about a hundred bucks. Of course the costs of the policy vary, depending on what you choose and the factors already mentioned (age, breed, etc.)

Some of the plans are comprehensive and include annual checkups and vaccinations, routine care, preventive medications (like Heartworm preventive) and spay/neuter surgeries.

Other plans only cover accident and illness. Almost all plans offer instant coverage for accident claims, and 30 days for illness claims on new policies.

Additional pets added to the plan usually receive a discounted rate.

But what other options do you have besides pet insurance?

Well, you can check out a discount program, like Pet Assure. This national program offers 25% savings on all veterinary services and up to 50% on pet supplies and services.

Or, you can put away money in a savings account every month or with every paycheck. It's wise to keep a minimum of $1000 in the account at all times, just in case of emergencies.

Cat litterbox training – How to encourage faithful litterbox use

2006-12-27T02:20:00.001-08:00

Cats don't necessarily need to be trained to use the litter box the same way a dog needs to be housetrained or a child potty trained. It's actually a natural born instinct for them to want to bury their waste in a soft, diggable material such as litter.

So most of the litter training is already done for you! However, the litterbox should always be the best bathroom option available – otherwise you can run into problems.

But let's start at the beginning.

Just because a cat naturally is driven to use the litterbox, that doesn't necessarily mean you can't litterbox train a stubborn cat or encourage appropriate elimination behavior. Whether dealing with a young kitten who hasn't learned any bathroom habits, or an older cat who's decided to stop using the litterbox – there are certainly things you can do to encourage faithful litterbox use.

The first thing I would do, especially when dealing with a kitten, is to have scheduled feeding times throughout the day. (this way, you will know when your kitten/cat is going to need to go to potty)

It's much easier to predict when a kitten is going to start looking for a place to go potty, because they typically need to go anywhere from 5 - 25 minutes after eating. With an older cat, bathroom time will be harder to predict but through careful and persistent observation you will be able to pick up on a pattern.

A young cat (4 months and younger) should eat 3-4 times a day. 5-15 minutes after your kitten is done eating, gently place him or her in the litter box.

If you see the kitten showing signs of wanting to go elsewhere (sniffing around, squatting) gently pick the kitten up and place him/her in the litter box. Yelling at or scolding a cat or kitten for inappropriate elimination will not help. In fact, it will simply make your cat fear you.

What's more, if you scold your cat or kitten and then put them in the litterbox – this only worsens the problem as the cat starts to view the litterbox as a punishment.

This may also cause them to be afraid of going potty in front of you – which can lead to anxiety and stress, and also be a huge problem. So make sure you always make it a pleasant and happy experience for your cat or kitten to use the litter box. During the early stages of training, I'd suggest rewarding appropriate litterbox use with loads of praise and a delicious treat. On top of that, make sure the litterbox fits the cat.

What I mean by that is, a small kitten needs a shallow litterbox with short sides that he or she can actually climb into without help.

While at the same time, a large cat will get frustrated by a litterbox that isn't big enough to scratch, dig and move around in.

If you keep finding kitty surprises right next to the litterbox rather than inside it, your cat may actually be going potty inside the litterbox, but the waste doesn't land where it's supposed to because there isn't enough room.

If you are still struggling with litterbox training your cat after following these suggestions, I'd like to invite you to visit www.secretsofcats.com to get more information about solving common cat behavior problems.

Does You Cat Have Feline Lower Urinary Tract Disease (FLUTD)?

2006-12-27T02:18:00.000-08:00

FLUTD, also known as feline urologic syndrome or FUS, is a common term that applies to an assortment of ailments affecting a cat’s lower urinary tract such as cystitis, infection of the urinary tract, kidney stones and the formation of crystals in the urinary tract.

More prevalent among male cats over 12 months old FLUTD is a problem that can keep cropping up in some cats over their lifetime and is usually very painful and potentially lethal if not treated quickly. If you think your cat has FLUTD take them to the Vet as quickly as possible because in some extreme cases death can occur within a day.

FLUTD - Potential Causes

Since FLUTD comprises several different diseases it can be hard to isolate the exact causes but here are some commonly accepted reasons your cat can contract FLUTD:

Most cats usually don’t drink very much water and because of this they may not urinate enough to keep their urinary tract cleansed.

Overweight cats usually are not very active and tend to make fewer visits to the litter box so their urine sits in their bladder longer and crystals can form or infections can develop.

Some evidence suggests that having your cat neutered might make it easier for them to get FLUTD.

Cats that are always indoors and use a litter box have a greater chance of having urinary tract problems as opposed to cats that spend a lot of time outdoors.

Your cat can become dehydrated if you use a dry cat food but you should know that many cat experts recommend dry cat food over moist in most cases.

Even though it might be hard to believe stress can play a major role in a cat’s life and this is also felt to be a trigger for FLUTD.

FLUTD - Symptoms

It is important to make note of any change in your cat’s daily behavior as this can be a clear sign a urinary tract problem is developing:

Is your cat urinating more frequently?

Are there any traces of blood in your cat’s urine? If so take them to the Vet immediately.

Does your cat strain while urinating or is unable to go at all? Do not mistake this for constipation which is the inability to have a bowel movement.

Is your cat urinating outside the litter box or spraying doorways? This might indicate FLUTD but can also be attributed to behavioral problems.

Does your cat have a sudden loss of appetite?

FLUTD - Treatments

If you think your cat might be having some type of urinary problem your Vet can do a simple urine test to check for Feline Lower Urinary Tract Disease.

The good news is that FLUTD is easily treated through medicine and changes in your cat’s diet. Be sure and follow your Vet’s advice and your cat will be healthy in no time.

FLUTD – Prevention

FLUTD related diseases typically go away in a week or two but you do not want to take the chance and wait to see if your cat gets better because doing so can be risky to your cat’s long term health.

You need to make sure your cat is drinking enough fresh water and using a water fountain designed just for this purpose might help.

If you think stress is the problem you need to find out what the stressors are and eliminate them.

Follow your Vet’s advice to the letter.

If there is one central theme to this article it is that you do not want to take risks with your cat’s health. If you think they have FLUTD you need to get them to your Vet quickly so a professional diagnosis can be made and the appropriate treatment prescribed. Do not disregard your cat’s sickness thinking it will go away as FLUTD can not only be very painful but lethal as well.

Dogs and Cats Need Healthy Teeth and Gums Too

2006-12-26T01:43:00.000-08:00

Your pet’s dental care is important; it is an integral part of your pet's health. According to a noted veterinary hospital, just as you brush your teeth every day and have them professionally cleaned by your dentist, your animals need the same or similar treatment. A common indication of dental disease in your pet is of course, bad breath. With dogs and cats, naturally, some breath odor is unavoidable at times. However, when the breath odor is really bad, this may be due to the metabolism of some of the bacteria present in the mouth when excessive plaque is present.

Veterinary professionals state that plaque forms when there is a buildup of bacteria and other components of saliva along the teeth and/or gums. It mainly consists of bacteria and is soft at first. When plaque is soft, it can be removed easily at times by frequent brushing. After plaque hardens it is known as calculus—more commonly called tartar. Calculus can build up on your pet’s teeth. This calculus is usually below the gum line and can lead to periodontal disease. Periodontal disease is a major initiator of infections in the gums, which can also lead to infections throughout the body. Oftentimes the teeth become very painful and loose. Some animals may begin to lose their teeth.

Do not allow the tartar to build up on your pet’s teeth. Built up calculus can cause severe dental disease. One of the first signs of dental disease is gingivitis, which is inflammation of the gums. The gums will be sore and reddened, and the animal’s breath will have a bad odor. There may be some drooling due to the soreness. If you brush the teeth, the gums will probably bleed.

This is where preventative maintenance comes in: The best kind of preventative care for your pet's teeth is simply regular brushing. Occasionally, dental prophylaxis at your veterinarian’s office may also be required. A dental prophylaxis (often called dental prophy) is an in-depth teeth cleaning and oral exam performed by veterinarians. In this instance, the animal will be placed under general anesthesia so that the dental prophy can be performed.

Brushing your pet’s teeth need not be difficult. Once your pet is used to it, it should not take long to do. Brush your cat or dog’s teeth using a soft bristled toothbrush along with pet toothpaste. The toothpaste that we use as humans should not be used with our pets as it may irritate their stomachs if swallowed—which is a possibility. Get your pet used to the brushing when your pet is young; this will make is less difficult in the long run. Vets state that most pets will tolerate brushing no matter what their age. Brush your pet’s teeth gently on a regular basis. This will go a long way to reducing plaque buildup.

Cat Care for the Sr. Cat

2006-12-26T01:42:00.002-08:00

How quickly time passes by! If you kitty is over 10 years old he is considered old! You may be aware of this fact but what you may not know is how to care for your aging kitty. What are the best ways to keep your older cat healthy and happy as well as active during their later years? Some questions might arise such as, should I change the food I have been using? You might wonder how to keep your cat healthy through exercise? What about medical care?

When a cat ages, its body goes through much the same types of changes that we see in humans. Cat care becomes very important at this time. For example, there is a natural decrease in muscle mass, along with a coinciding increase of body fat. If you are not careful and take early action these changes can lead to an overweight kitty! Because the energy needs of the typical cat begins to slow around the ages of 7 to 9, changes in food intake and exercise must be made to prevent the cat from become unhealthy. Nutrition is a very critical aspect of cat health and cat care. Strolling down the cat isle at the pet store will present a vast array of cat foods for every kind of situation. The elderly cat is not left out. It is very important that you choose a food designed for your cats age. Food for older cats will contain less calories and protein and more of the vitamins and minerals an older cat needs. A quick call to your vet can help you decide if you are not sure which one to pick.

Sometimes you may not be sure if your kitty is officially a Sr yet. There are some signs that you will want to keep an eye on. When a couple of these traits begin to be apparent you know its time to make some changes. Is your cat moving slower than the past, does he sleep more than years past, is your cat unable to jump up on things that use to be easy for him? These can all be signs of an aging cat. You may want to consider things that can make life a little easier for him at this time of his life. Pet steps can help a cat get up on a bed that is too high to jump on now. A comfortable, plush cat tree with a cat house can make for restful naps and a place to hide out in.

Arthritis in older cats is a big issue because as cats age the absorption rate of calcium into their bones becomes inadequate. A general rule of cat care is that arthritis becomes an issue for cats at about the age of 12, even earlier if the cat happens to be obese. If your veterinarian diagnosis your cat with the painful illness of arthritis, there are some steps that can be taken to minimize its effect on the cat. For example, this can often be treated with a combination of weight loss and medication. Sometimes its just a fact of growing old and the only thing we can do is make things a little easier for our old friend.

As your cats age progresses, cat care becomes even more crucial. When a cat becomes very old, it can suffer loss of sight and hearing, just like humans. And, just as with older humans, cat care becomes a little harder at this age. Care needs to be taken to make sure the cat is as comfortable as possible. The teeth of you cat can present cat care challenges as he gets older. As with all of us, the older we get the more dental problems we have. Be sure you are doing all you can to keep your cat's teeth healthy. See our cat care article on cat teeth. One good way to help a cat keep healthy teeth is by feeding him hard cat food most of the time.

Animal Afterlife - The Souls of Animals

2006-12-26T01:42:00.001-08:00

At some point in our lives, we have all lost precious and dear pets, or at least know someone who has. Their passing is often as painful to us as when we lose human loved ones, sometimes even more so. When they leave us, we like to think that there is a place for them in eternity. It is important that we feel that somehow, someway, provision has been made for them.

Unfortunately, when we seek validation for these hopes from those we look to in spiritual matters, we frequently find that they hold to the view that animals are for this world only and that they do not possess eternal souls. We are told that when they pass, that is the end of the road for them. This only deepens our sorrow and pain.

I do not subscribe to this view. In fact, I find it to be both presumptuous and theologically immature. Presumptuous, because the Bible is clear that God valued the creatures he formed with his own hands and called them "very good" after creating them, indicating that their existence pleased him.

Further, the Bible gives indisputable record that God, motivated by his pleasure and love for his creation, personally and purposely protects and provides for his creatures from Eden past through Millennium future. We are told that he clothes the animals and provides sustenance for them. He directs their migrations to ensure their safety from the environment. He even gives instructions on how domestic animals should be treated. In short, he expresses and employs unending care for his creatures.

This should come as no surprise to anyone as it is in keeping with his original plan in Eden, which was that animals (like humans) would live forever. His immutability precludes variance from that plan; irrespective of the temporary setback caused by the fall of mankind. It would be presumptuous to think that God would change his mind on this matter, for his thoughts and plans are perfect and never in need of correction, change or update.

Continuing, I find the idea that animals have no souls, theologically immature and lacking. The evidence found in scripture overwhelmingly supports that animals do indeed have souls, much like people. I say "much like" because there is a distinct difference. Animals are innocent creatures that are not in need of reconciliation and regeneration. Nevertheless, with this one exception, their souls are very similar to, if not exactly like our own.

In perhaps the oldest book of the Bible, the Book of Job, verse 10 of chapter 12 tells us "In whose hand is the soul of every living thing". This is a very profound passage. The initial, face-value perception is that God is speaking of all creatures, human and animal. The considered, in-depth study of the statement supports the initial perception.

The word "soul" is used in over twenty different ways in the Bible. Invariably, when people come across this word in scripture, they automatically associate it with redemption, so much so that in no matter what context it appears, the connection to reconciliation and salvation is always present in their minds and unconsciously applied to the interpretation.

In most cases, this is right and acceptable to the rules of exegesis, but there are times when it is not. Clearly, the gospel message is not for animals. It is exclusively for people. It is a reconciliatory outreach from God to people. However, to allow this truth to cause one to draw the conclusion that animals therefore cannot have a soul, is to visit a gross injustice on scripture.

The Hebrew word "nephesh" (soul), appears many times in scripture and is used interchangeably to describe both the essence of man and animals. It does not make a distinction between the two and it does not delve into salvation in its application. Rather, it addresses the consciousness of the soul.

This passage in Job is a good example of this. The word soul is not used in relation to redemption, but rather addresses providential care. A clearer meaning of this verse would be "in whose hand is the life or essence of every living thing…". God is speaking of that part of humans and animals that contains or houses the "life" he has given to them, that part that departs the body when the body expires.

When we mesh this thought in Job with Romans chapter 8 and Revelation 5:9-13, to name a few corresponding passages, the meaning is clear. The life or essence of every living thing is in the eternal care of the one who created that life.

However, this word in Job indicates an even deeper thought for us to consider. We often refer to man (or woman) as a flesh and blood body with a soul. This is not so. In keeping with the absolute intent of this word, man is a soul that has been placed in a flesh and blood body. The distinction is subtle, but it is immense in effect. This is our essence, that we are a soul, not a body. The body is temporal, but the soul eternal.

This truth applies to animals as well. They are not creatures with souls, but are eternal souls given temporary bodies. The same word is used to describe their essence as it is ours. So when we refer to their soul, we are merely acknowledging that animals have essence and that this essence is eternal in nature. They are innocent creatures whose souls are safe in the hand of their creator.

Putting Your Pet Out to Pasture

2006-12-25T01:41:00.000-08:00

Don't let the title fool you. This is not an article about your pet getting old. The title is just a "hook" to encourage you to read on. Hopefully, when you do, you will find this a very informative article relating to your pet's health, or at least your understanding of some aspects of it.

I actually want to talk to you about grass. That's right…grass. More specifically, I want to talk to you about why dogs and cats eat grass.

I think we would be hard-pressed to find anyone who has not witnessed this peculiarity of domestic animals at one time or another. When it is our pet, however, it can cause us concern and, if we let our imaginations go unchecked, it can cause us alarm.

It has been my experience that on occasion, that alarm can lead to unnecessary expense as we panic and rush our best friend off to the nearest veterinarian, only to hear him tell us with a chuckle "he's okay, it's normal for him to eat grass. How embarrassing is that!

Why is it normal for our pets to consume grass? They all do it if they are allowed access to it. Are they not getting the right nourishment? Are they ill? These are all unsettling, but reasonable questions.

More unsettling is that invariably shortly after ingesting the grass, perhaps 20 minutes later, they regurgitate it back up in a kind of green gooey mess (sorry to be so graphic). Why would they do this? Why would they do something that appears to be so hard on their system, or maybe even harmful to them? Should I be alarmed?

The short answer is "no, don't panic". As I mentioned earlier, any veterinarian will tell you that this is normal behavior. The very fact that all pets do it should suggest to you that it is not a bad thing.

The long or more detailed answer is that the outdoors is an animal's natural world and grass is part of that world. You and I can turn on the radio or television and be kept up to date on what is happening in our world. For dogs and cats, the ground is their primary source of connection with their world.

The ground is like a giant newspaper for them. They interpret the odors and conditions to discover what other dogs have been visiting their turf and what they did there. They "read" the yard to know what is happening in the world outside the house. With their heightened senses, they perceive when another dog or cat has been on their turf, whether it rained the night before, that so and so is in heat, or that the season is changing.

Additionally, the role the ground plays in our pet's lives does not end at bringing them the news. Through their own "contributions", they communicate to future visitors of that site who the yard belongs to, who they are and what they are about. Sometimes the deposit is meant as a welcome, other times a warning. It just depends on what the news is for that day.

But in keeping with the primary theme of this article, the ground is also the local canine and feline drug store. Perhaps it could more accurately be called the local natural herb store.

I don't know how many times I have heard someone ignorantly say "look at that stupid dog eating grass". The truth is, they are not stupid at all, but are rather quite savvy natural pharmacists. I think most people would be surprised to learn that animals know a whole lot more about herbs than we do. I concede it may be more of an instinctive knowledge than cognitive understanding, but it is knowledge nonetheless.

In fact, their understanding of herbal remedies is awesome. Have you ever noticed that they don't eat just any grass…they sniff around until they find exactly what they are looking for? Like the aisles in a drug store, each section of the outdoors holds different remedies.

For instance, certain grasses and sprouts are sought out and taken as internal cleansers. They cause vomiting; something we have all witnessed. This vomiting is the expected result for your pet. They know when they eat it that it will cause this reaction, yet they do it willingly and with purpose.

They instinctively know that it will cleanse their body of bile and other items that are not digestible. Anyone who loves and keeps animals knows that there are a lot of items that qualify in this category, from shoes to yarn to hair to some of the most extraordinary items.

While it is unsettling to know that they are not smart enough to figure out that swallowing a sock is not a good thing, it is comforting that they are usually savvy enough to know how to extricate it from their system before it becomes a problem or threat. This only emphasizes the importance of their having access to the outdoors on a regular basis.

Continuing, there is more to their natural pharmacy than just cleansers. Other grasses and herbs help evict or terminate worms and other parasites in their system. Still others provide needed minerals and nutrients and enhance digestive enzymes and acids. Uncannily, they all seem to know what remedy is needed for exactly whatever ails them at the moment.

Then, perhaps the biggest benefit to them is the presence of chlorophyll in most grasses. Chlorophyll helps to fight infection, enrich the coat and even relieves pain such as joint aches. It can also enhance cartilage soundness and offers a host of other benefits.

I know all this sounds a bit simplistic, but it really is not that complicated. The truth is that animals appear to know more about these things than you and I do and certainly more than we would think they should know. I am not sure "how" they know, but it is enough to accept that they do know, without having to know the "why".

Modern medicine has actually taken a step backwards to develop more primitive remedies as a result of a closer study of this savvy in animals. Science is now recognizing that many of the grass roots (pardon the pun) remedies nature provides for our pets are as good as, if not better than synthetic drugs.

In fact, people are learning how to cultivate and produce certain herbs and grasses to help their pets, even freezing summer crops for winter dispensing when grasses are not in season. This can be especially helpful to cats and other mammals who are not allowed to venture outdoors, but who still need to ingest some of the natural cleansing agents found there.

Help, My Pet Has Diarrhea!

2006-12-24T01:41:00.000-08:00

One of the most common reasons pet owners seek the help of a veterinarian is because their pet has diarrhea. Whether it is a regular occurrence for a pet with an over sensitive digestive system or a one off event, it always signifies that something is not right and requires action to firm those stools up again. This article explains in simple terms some of the more common causes of diarrhea in dogs and cats, and how best to deal with the problem.

OK, so you have noticed your pet has diarrhea. The first question to ask yourself is to describe the nature of the feces. The consistency, color and even smell of the feces gives the veterinarian vital clues as to the cause. Here are some questions to ask yourself, so that you are well prepared to answer any questions your veterinarian might ask if you end up seeking his/her advice.

1. How long has your pet had diarrhea for? Has your pet suffered from episodes of diarrhea in the past? If yes, there may be a dietary intolerance to deal with and therefore specific foods to avoid.

2. Is your dog/cat bright and well or depressed and lethargic? If the latter is true, more urgent diagnostics and treatment may be necessary.

3. How is your pets appetite? If your pet is still eating it is a good sign that the cause of the diarrhea is a simple one that is easy to fix.

4. Is the diarrhea watery or just slightly loose? If it is very watery then it suggests fluid is being actively secreted into the intestines, and there is more of a danger from your pet suffering from dehydration due to fluid loss.

5. Has there been any vomiting at all? If your pet has been vomiting too then the disease is affecting the front end of the digestive tract (esophagus, stomach and small intestine) in addition to the back end (small intestine and large intestine). This could be due to something your pet has eaten, or due to toxins in the bloodstream that make the animal feel nauseous.

6. Is there any blood in the diarrhea? Blood can take on two forms; bleeding into the small intestine results in black feces as the blood is partly digested by the time it reaches the anus. Bleeding into the large intestine or rectum leads to reddish feces, with more fresh looking blood. The nature of the blood and the color of the stool tells us the location of the problem. Puppies and kittens commonly have streaks of blood in their feces; this is often no major cause of concern. Copious blood in the feces however is a huge worry and needs immediate veterinary investigation to check for nasties such as anticoagulant toxicity, severe infections and tumors.

7. Which of these two descriptions best fits the diarrhea:

A) your pet is producing huge amounts of explosive diarrhea a couple of times a day at most, or

B) your pet is straining to defecate and passing small amounts of mucus covered diarrhea 4 or more times during the day. If the answer is A, the small intestine is the source of the problem whereas if the answer is B, the large intestine is where the disease is. This is also important in how the diarrhea is treated. 8. Could your pet have swallowed an object that is lodged somewhere? This is far more common in dogs, particularly those that play with sticks and toys, or those that are given bones to chew. However it does happen to cats occasionally, with things such as elastic, string or cotton. If your pet has swallowed something that is stuck it will usually be vomiting first and foremost, and off its food. An object stuck in the intestine somewhere will often cause diarrhea though, which can lead to rapid dehydration. This scenario requires urgent veterinary attention, for xrays and possible surgery.

Common causes of diarrhea in dogs and cats

1. Intestinal parasites. Make sure your dog/cat is wormed with a licensed veterinary product every 3 months to prevent an infestation building up and causing diarrhea and weight loss.

2. Bacterial infections. Arguably the most common cause of diarrhea in pets. Many animals are by nature scavengers and will gobble up things they find lying around outside, some of which might be harbouring nasty bacteria that cause vomiting and/or diarrhea. Certain bacteria are worse than others; the 3 ones to worry about are E. coli, Salmonella and Campylobacter as these can be passed to humans. However, bacterial infections are usually easily treated by a course of antibiotics. Veterinarians usually prescribe a non specific broad spectrum antibiotic to start with, and if the stools do not firm up then a swab is taken to determine the species of bacteria involved and which antibiotics it is sensitive to.

3. Viral infections. Though quite rare nowadays in the USA and UK due to widespread vaccination, viral infections are often more deadly than their bacterial counterparts. One of the better known and most deadly ones in dogs is Parvovirus, which causes an explosive foul smelling bloody diarrhea, usually with vomiting, and severe dehydration. Since antiviral drugs are seldom used in veterinary practice, treatment usually focuses on keeping the dog hydrated via an intravenous drip, and treating any secondary bacterial infections with antibiotics.

4. Dietary intolerance. Also widely known as food allergy, this is a hypersensitivity reaction to certain ingredients in a pets diet. Certain breeds are more prone to it than others, and it can occur in pets that have been fed the same diet for years but suddenly develop an allergy to one of its ingredients. The symptoms can either be diarrhea, though the animal usually remains bright with a good appetite throughout, or itchiness, in particular licking at the paws. Diagnosis is either via a blood test sent to a specialised laboratory to measure antibodies to different ingredients, or by conducting a strict dietary trial and feeding nothing but chicken and rice for 6 weeks, with no treats at all. Long term resolution is identifying the ingredient responsible and eliminating it from the diet.

5. Inflammatory bowel disease. This is an inflammation of the wall of the intestines, usually due to a defective immune system. It is characterised by a long history of intermittent or constant diarrhea that is non responsive to antibiotics or a dietary trial. Diagnosis is best achieved by taking biopsies of the intestines and having the tissue samples examined by a pathologist. The disease cannot be cured and is often managed with low dose steroids and/or a prescription diet.

6. Liver disease. This tends to occur more in older animals and is easily diagnosed via simple blood tests. There are medications to lessen the symptoms, and a low protein, high fibre diet is advised.

7. Hormonal imbalances. Disease of the adrenal or thyroid glands can cause diarrhea. These can be diagnosed via blood tests and treated appropriately.

8. Cancer. This is unlikely to occur in young animals. There are a number of different types of cancer that can cause diarrhea, all of which have different prognoses. Early identification and surgical removal of some types may be curative, but if they have already spread via the lymphatic system the outcome is poor.

What you should do

If your pet has recently developed diarrhea (and/or vomiting) and seems depressed, lethargic or flat, contact your veterinarian immediately.

If your pet is off his/her food completely, or is unable to hold down water, contact your veterinarian immediately.

If your pets diarrhea (or vomit) contains a large amount of blood or is very dark looking, contact your veterinarian immediately.

If you suspect your pet has a high temperature or is dehydrated, contact your veterinarian immediately.

If none of the above apply, first of all starve your pet for 24 hours. Make sure plenty of water is available during this period (not too cold), but no food at all. Once your pet has been starved for 24 hours, offer him/her a small amount of chicken and rice. If it is eaten, continue feeding small amounts of chicken and rice 3 times a day for the next 5 days. This bland diet will be gentle on the digestive system as your pet recovers. The majority of cases of sudden onset diarrhea will respond to this protocol.

Is Your Pet Overweight?

2006-12-23T01:24:00.001-08:00

Humans are not the only species to be suffering an obesity epidemic in certain parts of the world. Our pampered pets are also getting fat, with some estimates putting the level of obesity amongst dogs and cats at around 25%. It is accepted that being clinically obese can lead to medical problems in humans, and this too is true for our pets. Arthritis, heart disease, bladder problems and diabetes are just some of the ailments our pets can suffer from if they are predisposed to it by their weight problem. Also, obese pets experience fatigue, exercise intolerance and heat intolerance leading to a poor overall quality of life.

Quite often overweight owners will have overweight pets. For dogs, this derives from 3 likelihoods:

1. The owner is relatively inactive, and the dog does not get walked as much as it should, burning off less calories.

2. The owner eats regularly throughout the day, meaning the dog is more often begging for treats and probably getting them.

3. The owner has a misplaced judgement of what is overweight and what is healthy, and what constitutes an appropriate portion size for the dogs body weight.

For cats, the situation is a little different as they cannot be walked like dogs can to burn off calories. Naturally cats that spend more time indoors are getting less exercise than those that spend most of the time outdoors, and so are more likely to be obese. The latter 2 likelihoods above apply to cats too though.

In the authors experience, a motivated attempt by the owner to lose weight will often co-incide with the pet losing weight too. Like humans, pets cannot manufacture fat or muscle out of thin air and so for dogs and indoor cats you have total control over your pets body condition.

How can I tell if my pet is overweight?

There is no set rule of what is overweight and what not because there is so much variation between and within breeds. As a rule of thumb you should be able to feel your pets ribs easily by gently stroking the side of the chest with your fingertips. You should also be able to just feel the tips of the vertebrae jutting out (dorsal spinous processes) along your pets spine as you stroke him/her from head to tail. If they are not palpable then your pet is likely to be obese.

All pets should be weighed regularly. This may be difficult to achieve at home but a rough guide to your pets weight can be obtained by weighing yourself on some bathroom scales, then weighing yourself whilst carrying your pet and subtracting one from the other. This may be difficult for big heavy dogs, and inaccurate for small dogs and cats where small fluctuations can be more significant. Keeping track of your pets weight means that you can:

a) Dose them more accurately for medicines such as flea and worming prevention drugs.

b) Tell if they are putting on weight more accurately, as change is seldom noticed if you are seeing the animal on a daily basis rather than at intervals.

c) Tell if they are losing weight, which is a common factor in many disease processes.

If the bathroom scales option is not feasible, drop by your local veterinary clinic and ask if you can weight your pet on their scales. They will be impressed at your conscientiousness!

Killing your pet with kindness

For many animals the highlight of the day is meal time. Of course if your pet had just weeks to live due to, say, an inoperable tumor, then it would be wise to feed him/her whatever his/her favorite food is as there is no long term to suffer the long term consequences. However, for the vast majority, feeding an appropriate amount of a healthy diet will be greeted with equal enthusiasm as the gluttonous portions your pet may be accustomed to, it just needs a little owner motivation and discipline to get to that point.

So, are these diseases that fat animals suffer from genuine or are they just scare stories? They are indeed real and possibly even imminent for your pet. Lets have a closer look at some of the diseases and problems pets can suffer from as a direct result of their obesity:

1. Heart disease. The bigger you are, the harder your heart has to work to pump blood around the body. Very obese pets have a higher than normal heart rate and a larger heart with no reserve capacity, meaning they get out of breath very easily and regularly pant after minimal physical exertion. Losing some of that weight takes a huge strain off the heart.

2. Arthritis. Imagine carrying around a large rucksack full of stones wherever you went. After some time the strain on your joints would start to tell. Many pets will get arthritis at a certain age anyway, for obese pets this is more likely to occur sooner and the severity of the disease will be increased, necessitating permanent anti-inflammatory painkillers which can be expensive.

3. Diabetes Mellitus. Obesity is a well known factor in the development of diabetes, due to insufficient insulin produced in the pancreas and resistance to the insulin that is already being produced. Unfortunately once your pet develops diabetes there is no cure for it, and you must accept the responsibility of giving once or twice daily insulin injections for the rest of your pets life. Much better to avoid developing diabetes in the first place of course!

4. Urinary problems. Obese animals are more likely to suffer from cystitis, which requires veterinary treatment, and blockage of the bladder. A blocked bladder is common in obese male cats and is a true emergency.

5. Problems giving birth.

6. Non allergic skin diseases.

7. Breathing problems.

8. Hepatic lipidosis (fat deposited in the liver). This is a very serious condition that occurs in cats, particularly those that lose weight very quickly, or are starved for greater than 5 days.

9. Increased anesthetic risk.

How can I get my pet to lose weight?

1. Take your pet to the vet to have a thorough physical examination, lab tests, and an accurate weight recorded. The main purpose of this visit is to rule out hypothyroidism or other metabolic disorders which can prevent normal weight loss.

2. Feed less food than you have been. Quite simply, feed smaller portions.

3. Change the type of food to a low calorie complete diet. These diets, e.g. Hills r/d, provide less calories than regular pet foods do despite the portion being the same size. As a result your pets stomach is filled to the same degree and he/she does not feel hungry.

4. Feed pets small portions at intervals rather than continuous free access. If your pet goes outdoors, make sure no neighbors are feeding him/her.

5. Take your dog for longer and more regular walks to burn off calories. Increase the cats activity and exercise by enriching the cats environment, encouraging play.

6. Reweigh your pet at monthly intervals to assess your weight loss progress. If possible keep a chart so you can visualize how you are doing, with the target weight marked clearly. Your vet will be able to suggest an appropriate target weight.

7. Reduce the total daily amount fed if weight gain or no weight loss is noted.

8. Once your pet is at an ideal weight, adjust the total amount fed so that his or her body weight remains stable.

A Hassle-Free Way of Cleaning Up After a Pet

2006-12-23T01:23:00.001-08:00

Although my dog is by no means a puppy, he still acts like it most of the time. He's a Wheaton Terrier, and boy, are those dogs high-strung. He is extremely excitable when people come to call, wants to spend most of the winter out playing in the snow, but by far his most favourite pastime is romping through the mud after spring and fall rains. This can, by all accounts, get to be quite messy, and letting him tear loose through the house after running through the mud can cause quite the disaster.

Cleaning him was always quite the ordeal. My dog's a fairly big dog as far as Wheaton Terriers go, and he really does not enjoy baths. When he was quite a bit younger, I was able to wash him in the bathtub, but eventually he realized that he was perfectly capable of jumping out of the tub in order to avoid bath-time. So then, I had to resort to soaping him down in the laundry tub (lucky for me, he does not like jumping from heights). Have you ever tried lifting a large, heavy dog into a laundry tub? Not a pleasant experience.

Recently, I've discovered an ultra-absorbent cloth that just does wonders! Known as the world's most absorbent cloth, Moose River's chamois is a thick, durable fabric that can soak up liquid like a sponge. It's great for bathing pets, and to clean up after pet accidents, because unlike sponges and paper towels, once it soaks up the water, it retains it and does not drip or leak. And the best thing about the chamois is that it is machine washable and thus, is re-useable for many years to come.

Now that I have my chamois, things are so much easier. With just a bit of warm, soapy water, it's so easy to wipe my dog down! He doesn't put up half the fuss, and I'm able to clean him just as well as if he had actually been in the bath. This works much better than regular clothes would - instead of just spreading the mud around, and rubbing it in even more, I'm actually able to take the mud and dirt off his coat.

This cloth also comes in so handy when my dog makes a mess in the house, whether it's due to him tracking mud through the house, if he's sick, or any other sort of doggy messes. Instead of going through a roll of paper towels to clean up after him (and we all know how easily paper towels rip when they're wet, definitely not conducive to cleaning up messes on carpet), I use my chamois. I can use it with various cleaning products, and it doesn't harm the chamois at all, and again it just picks up the mess instead of rubbing it even more into the carpet. Then, when I'm done cleaning, I just throw it in the wash and it's all ready to go next time my dog decides to take a romp through the mud!

Cruciate Ligament Rupture - Your Pets Options

2006-12-23T01:22:00.000-08:00

Q. My 9 yr old 40kg dog hurt her cruciate ligament in her right back leg two weeks ago. My vet took xrays and performed tests on the knee and told me that the ligament had completely torn. He then advised strict rest for four weeks and to use Rimadyl anti-inflammatories. Yesterday however I came home from work to find her not using either of her back legs. I rushed her down to an emergency vet who said it was highly likely that her other leg was starting to rupture too. No neurological problems were found. The emergency vet suggested that I contact an orthopaedic specialist as surgery was almost certainly warranted in the right leg now. Since then we have booked her in for surgery and she is on rimadyl and glucosamine to keep her happy in the meantime. Any advice? and are there any other alternatives at this stage? Thank you

A. It is quite common for dogs who have a cruciate ligament rupture in one leg to develop one in the other leg unfortunately. It is however, a little strange that two complete ruptures occur at the same time like this. From your description of events it does sound like this is what is occuring here though. Surgical stabilization of the stifle (knee joint) is advocated by most veterinary surgeons when cruciate ligament rupture has occurred in both legs as this will aid recovery. With both legs possibly ruptured I would definately seek specialist help like you have to ensure the best treatment is received. In this circumstance a double (bilateral) TPLO surgery may be necessary to ensure a quick recovery (although I am not an orthopaedic specialist this sounds the most sensible to me). Surgery is also likely to reduce the amount of arthritis that will build up in the future. The other alternative is to continue resting her with anti-inflammatories, although I think this is less ideal because the healing process will probably take a lot longer.

Online Horse Classifieds Great for Horse Buying Research

2006-12-22T01:22:00.000-08:00

Buying a horse can be a very time consuming endeavor, with all the different horse breeds and skills to choose from. The more you become familiar with the process of buying and selling horses, the better your chances will be to end up with the horse to fit your needs. There are many avenues to look for the horse you want, like a local barn, tack shops, newspaper classifieds, and now you can go online and look through thousands of horse for sale classifieds. Take your time and don't get to overwhelmed. If you make the selection process in a hurry, you might make an unwise purchase. Plan to take from one month to one year to find your ideal horse. Understandably, if you are without a horse, one year might sound like a very long time, but you can use this time to become more knowledgeable about what you want by taking lessons.

The first thing you must determine is what you really want from a horse, and to what extent you will be using him/her. Will the horse be a trustworthy companion or wonderful Dressage prospect? Buy taking the time and comparing the different classified ads presented to you, will help determine your priorities. Be sure to use the advanced search features each online classified horse website has to offer, this will help you to narrow down your search results.

Once you have found the horse you want, its always a good idea to get a professional opinion when you are buying a horse. Whether or not you use an agent to help you select your horse, you should always have a basic veterinary pre-purchase exam performed. When you seek out professional advice, pay for it and then listen to it! When your instructor or veterinarian cautions you about a horse, it is for a reason. When seeking advice, it is best to a well-respected professional that has no vested interest in the horse sale.

Here is a breakdown of what to look for when a horse is for sale:

* does the horse fit your needs

* what skills does the horse possess

* does the horse have a good temperament

* do comparisons of other similar horses

* does the horse fit the selling price

* get professional advice

* are there any lessons with the sale

* make sure to have pre-purchase vet exam

* can you afford the upkeep on a horse (such as boarding, feed, and veterinary care.)

Stay focused. Keep in mind that you are selecting a horse for a particular reason or desired skill. There are many decisions and compromises lying ahead, so it helps if you set your priorities clearly at the outset.

If the overall purpose of the horse is to teach you how to ride rather than to carry you to the winner's circle, then the selection process will emphasize different traits to fit your needs. If the horse is intended to be a long-term project rather than a stepping stone, you may need to invest more time, effort, and money in your purchase. Remember to take your time and use the tools at your disposal, such as online horse classifieds, you will thank yourself in the end.